Fitted K'n'N Filter pods, now idles at 2000rpm

[momodasaint]

I have recently purchased a pair of twin KnN pods for my XJR1300(2000 model). Today I fitted them after removing OEM airbox.  I have put everything on correctly, all hoses in right places with clamps done up tight.  Well now it starts good, sounds okay except it won't idle below 2000rpm and when I throttle it, is bogging down badly.   I have tried lowering idle with the correct knob but to know avail, and this has always worked.  It has the OEM twin exhaust system fitted.

When I was removing OEM airbox, I removed carbies from motor and in the process they were tipped upside down at some stage.   Also, the throttle cables were disconnected from the carbies when they were removed from bike and I tried my best to put them back with the same settings but may have adjusted them slightly by accident when refitting the carbies. I'm talking about the two nut setup that is used to adjust the tension on the throttle cables  From what I read before fitting these airfilters, I didn't NEED bigger jets although it did say it could help with power gains.

I have also purchased a SyncPro lately and havent had to use it as my bike has always ran great, until now.   So it was running perfectly before I fitted the airfilters, if anyone could give their advice I would greatly appreciate it.   

[ribbert]

What you describe is consistent with the throttle cables not having enough freeplay.

Noel

[momodasaint]

What you describe is consistent with the throttle cables not having enough freeplay.

Noel

This was my first thought Noel and I tried to rectify that to the point where there was no tension on both cables and it didn't effect the rpm at all.     
Also, if this were the problem, it wouldn't effect the power when giving it plenty of throttle would it?  It bogs down alot when given throttle.
I am now considering taking it to be jetted and tuned by a pro.  I guess it can't hurt except for lightening the wallet....    Would anyone consider that giving in?

[balky1]

What you describe is consistent with the throttle cables not having enough freeplay.

Noel

This was my first thought Noel and I tried to rectify that to the point where there was no tension on both cables and it didn't effect the rpm at all.     
Also, if this were the problem, it wouldn't effect the power when giving it plenty of throttle would it?  It bogs down alot when given throttle.
I am now considering taking it to be jetted and tuned by a pro.  I guess it can't hurt except for lightening the wallet....    Would anyone consider that giving in?

If you have the money, give it to the specialist and enjoy afterwards. 

[giantkiller]

Could it be a stuck float. Or intake leak... I know from experience intake leak won't let it idle down. Could be wrestling around with the carbs caused either.

[TexasDave]

Could it be a stuck float. Or intake leak... I know from experience intake leak won't let it idle down. Could be wrestling around with the carbs caused either.

I agree with Dan on intake leak. Running lean it will idle faster. When opening the throttle it will be even leaner and bog down. Get a propane torch. Open the valve a little with it unlit. Start bike and hold propane nozzle close to each intake manifold and carb. If the engine speeds up you have a leak in that location.

Dave

[FJ1100mjk]

Try Here

[momodasaint]

Thanks guys for the advice.  I decided that I'd at least have alook at the condition of my current manifold o-rings.  They are pretty flat so I pulled em out, flipped em over and put them back in. Then I fully cleaned both surfaces of where the head meets the manifolds.  When I picked up the carbs to put into place I just noticed out of the corner of my eye that one of the butterfly valves wasnt quite closed 100%. Then after closer inspection I noticed that carb 3 & 4 were both slightly ajar.  So I adjusted them using the syncing screws before fitting them back together.
Now it runs great.    Not 100% on which thing fixed it but my guess is the butterflies. Before I pulled it all down again I had hooked up the syncPro and 1 & 2 were fine but 3 & 4 had so much vacuum that it wanted to suck all the fluid out of the syncPro. So I shut it down before the fluid reached the top.     After I put I reassembled it the synchPro worked perfectly and just need a little tweeking.  Now she sounds great, all the carbs are synced and it seems to have plenty of power.  It was bogging down badly before but now it is great.     

So thanks guys, if I hadn't pulled it down again, I may have taken a lot longer to find the issue.   Fingers crossed, I'm about to take it for a ride

[Bones]

Sometimes it's the most simple things that stumps you. Hey Bender, you may find that with pods on you might have to raise the needles a notch to richen it up a bit. The air velocity changes with pods and the slides sit a bit lower than with an airbox. See what it rides like first, I had to raise mine a notch but other people with pods haven't worried about it.

[momodasaint]

Sometimes it's the most simple things that stumps you. Hey Bender, you may find that with pods on you might have to raise the needles a notch to richen it up a bit. The air velocity changes with pods and the slides sit a bit lower than with an airbox. See what it rides like first, I had to raise mine a notch but other people with pods haven't worried about it.

Hey Bones, sounds like good advice. I just returned from the test ride.  It idles perfect, cruises in all gears well, but when I try to accellerate with more than half throttle it bogs down.  When idling in nuetral or with the clutch in, it will rev right up with no signs of bogging down, but under load it bogs. As soon as I back off the gas it goes straight back to behaving as it should. I think I'm 95% done, but obviosly I need to play with the air/fuel a little maybe. 

So originally when I was problem solving I had turned the air/fuel screws all the way in and then screwed them out all the same amount so I could get close to all being even. ie one and a half revolutions anti-clockwise.
My next plan is to back them out in 1/4 turn increments until I see improvement and then I'll know if I'm going in the right direction. Its got to be lean or rich so I'll get there soon enough.

[Bones]

Yeah mate it's all trial and error and every bike would be different. Mine won't do the blip test properly unless the screws are about 3.5 to 4 turns out. With the needles, mine just felt a bit dead accelerating from cruising speed so I lifted them a notch and it seemed better, one day I might even lift them another notch and see if that makes any difference.

Accelerating from 60k's in top gear now seems ok but the intake noise could still be masking a flat spot. Have to test it against another one to know for sure.

[FJ_Hooligan]

I have recently purchased a pair of twin KnN pods for my XJR1300(2000 model). Today I fitted them after removing OEM airbox.  I have put everything on correctly, all hoses in right places with clamps done up tight.  Well now it starts good, sounds okay except it won't idle below 2000rpm and when I throttle it, is bogging down badly.   I have tried lowering idle with the correct knob but to know avail, and this has always worked.  It has the OEM twin exhaust system fitted.

This makes me thing a cable is too tight or possible got kinked and is sticking internally?
Can you use a screwdriver and press the throttle linkage closed to see if that makes it idle down?

EDIT: Oops, nevermind.  I need to read to the end before posting.  Glad you got it fixed.