On The Road Agin': Tales of Sturm und Drang

[PaulG]

After last years debacle with my carbs I swore on this site that I would never ever touch them again.  Welllll.... I couldn't resist.   After buying new floats http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb:3H5-14985-00-00&cat=39, screw replacement kit http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=39, and float gauge http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools:FLGT&cat=39 from RPM I just had to give it another go.  This would be my third attempt at trying not to butcher them.  Since the bike was stored outside and the carbs were inside, I had to wait all winter until we had some decent weather a few weeks ago to start the rehab.

Spoiler alert: there may be a few sprinkles of F-this that & the other thing....

But first...

Luggage/Signal Brackets

After finding out too late that the brackets were too weak to hold any substantial weight, they eventually both broke.  I've had a set of Krauser hard bags mounted for three seasons now and they finally gave it up.  So in the fall before the winter chill set in I removed the subframe and eventually secreted it into work (not at all obvious).  There my trusty maintenace mechanic re-welded them back on.  He had a bit of trouble finding the right voltage for the arc welder to prevent burning holes in it, eventually settling on almost nothing.  He did a fine job as far as I can tell, cuz I don't know shit about welding.  Now I just have to wait a few months for it to warm up and put it back on....

Engine Mounts

After reading up in the forum and consulting (numerous times) with that fountain of knowledge paulfj09 (Wags to some), I proceeded to make the extractor tool(s).  Since the collar diameter was 19mm I went with an M20 threaded rod (1m=$50) as it fits a 19mm nut.  The maintenance guys at work helped with welding on the lock nuts and I proceeded to fumble my way into it.

So away I go and try to pull out the collar.  And promptly strip the rod.  And I notice the points on the 19mm nut used to pull the collar started to peel back.  In that inner Baby Huey https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1kpz8nxnk4 voice I thought. "Duuhhhhey! It's a 19mm nut.  Why don't it fit?  Ooohhhhh.... cuz it's 19mm at the flats, but diagonogally across the points it's huger!"  Think man! Think!  Gears start grinding... "so that means I need something smaller than 19mm?" Good Boy!  

In the meantime I am informed that I must use a fine thread rod (1m=$60!) to achieve the torque required. DOH!  

So I have the idea to grind off the points using my rotary tool.  I use the rod to help hold the nut, and find that the nut will spin on the shaft if I don't hold it tight enough (for fear of grinding off my fingertips!).  Hey wait a second!  I could use a bench grinder to round it off by keeping the nut stationary by feeding the rod through while it spins.

At work the next night I start to try this when my trusty Polish mechanic says, "What the fahck are yoo dooink?  No No No Give dat to me!  I do it on da mill!"  Isn't it nice when you don't even have to ask?    He rounds off the fine thread nut to 18.6mm, while I hand grind a coarse thread nut to 18.4mm.  They look almost identical except the hand ground one has a slightly rougher surface (and slightly less round).

Now fully armed I once again proceed to remove the collar and strip another tool.  OK I'll just make up more. Eventually I get the right side collar out going through three tools in the process.  The collar gets a wire brush and copious globs of synthetic grease, while the bushing gets a polish on the buffer at work.

Now for the other mount on the frame.  What's that?  It's NOT an engine mount?  But it's attached to the engine isn't it?  Well no, it's attached to the frame and upon further consultation - I fucked up.    Now before you do your best slo-mo-diving , "NNNNOOOOOOOOOOO...!!!"  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eal4fep7pK4  there was some minor damage to the outer casing when it caught the spacer on the way out, (I'm assuming blame for that as I am uncertain if the damage was already there from a PO).  After a clean and polish I was able to press it back in without too much trouble – other than costing me two more tools!  

Onto the left side.  This oughta' be a cinch.  I start extracting and luckily I decide to loosen it off and check every few turns.  I soon realize that the whole effin' thing is pulling out of the block.  WTF!    I rack what's left of my brain cells.  How could this be?!  Upon inspection of the spacer – which I had changed to a SS pipe nipple - I realize the problem.  The nipple had a thinner wall.  So unbeknownst to me I was using a larger inner diameter which then fit outside the collar and rested against the block.  "Oh FFS!", I says. I also checked my SS spacer.  When I cut it from some SS pipe at work, the mechanic used a pipe threading machine to de-burr it.   That left a chamfer on the inner diameter, with one end being deeper than the other.    The shallower end worked on the right side initially. After pressing it back in (ruining two more tools), I decided to make some new ones before proceeding.   Mission accomplished (I left the frame mount alone this time.) ... a simple 2hr job that took one week and ruined 10 tools!  And about $150 in material - but it's done!  

Tires/Tyres and Bearings

Meanwhile my new Avon Storm 3D's http://www.petes-superbike.com/15080zr16-av66-storm-rear-p-639861.html are waiting installation.  Off to Cycle World Superstore http://www.cycleworldsuperstore.com/ where they charged me $45 ea. for install/balance - which for Toronto is very reasonable.  They were a former Big 4 dealer but now deal strictly in used bikes of all makes, service, parts, and apparel.  I thought since I had them off I should replace the bearings.  I went to the Yamaha dealer to check on them.  They had the fronts in stock but the seals would be a couple of days - I didn't bother to ask why they would have bearings but not the seals. The rear sprocket hub bearing was a 3 wk back-order from Japan.  So I bought the bearings and seals, but decided to go to the SKF distributor for the rears.  Don't ask me why I just didn't buy all of them from SKF.  I had been up over 24hrs by now cuz of my night shift, and I don't make the best of decisions.    In fact I'm usually incapable of making any decision.  Anyhow, SKF had all three rear bearings and seals in stock.  Great!  On they go with no drama.  Now for the fronts.  I bought them on the Wed. and the seals were to be in on the Fri.... no? Sat....no?  Okay Mon!... late afternoon but finally here! So no more bearings from the dealer ever again!  After more nights at work and once again, a bearing replacement which should have taken a day or two, took a week!  I see a theme starting here.  

Time to remount the wheels, and now I get to use the Motion Pro Chain Alignment Tool from RPM http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ChainAlign&cat=39.  I get it lined up and torque everything down and note how little the chain has stretched (if at all) due to the Scott Automatic Oiler http://www.scottoiler.com/us/Kits/Scottoiler-vSystem-CARB-EO/flypage.tpl.html.  Probably the best investment I made so far.    Now get out the split pins for the brake arm and... oh, great.  I completely forgot to rotate the rear brake into place and install the bolt into the brake arm. Another FFS!   OK loosen axle-rotate brake-attach bolt/splt pin-check alignment-tighten axle-check alignment/tension.

Now to get those carbs back on.  But wait...

Exhaust

It needs a good cleaning and repainting.  Alright already!    Off come the Hindle Pipes https://www.hindle.com/, loosen off the headers... and why is my collector box wobbling around?  Oh great.  There's no mounting bolt.  I wonder whose radiator it bounced through?    Once again a dreaded trip to the dealer.  Two days... or so.  Okay, since I'm working it doesn't matter.  And it does only take two days this time.  Go buy some VHT Header Paint  http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-flameproof-coating, scrub down the pipes and collector and paint them.  Polish up the Hindles and find a nice gouge in one where it rubbed on an the axle.  When I made up the custom connector pipes, I asked the exhaust shop that bent them for me if I needed to cut some gaps in the connection at the collector, as the stock ones did.  I believed him when he said "Naw...", not thinking that they just do cars.  So the connection at the collector was always a little wonky which I believe led to the rubbing of the Hindle can.  I cut four gaps in each pipe end and now its rock solid.  Oh yeah, the #1 clamp bolt on the collector has also seemed to have gone missing.  Luckily I still have my old rotten collector for a replacement bolt.  About the only serendipitous thing that has happened so far.

And now the Carbs...

About two weeks previous I was able to do a gravity check on the carbs after I set the floats and there was no leaks.  An encouraging sign.  Now that all the previous items are complete - I stupidly thought all I needed to do was the engine mounts and tires - my arch nemesis needed to be confronted and defeated once and for all!  On go the carbs.... cables on..., fuel line on... all overflow tubes on....  I left off the airbox in case I had a disaster.  Turn on the key and wait for the fuel pump to cycle.  I wait... and wait... and wait.  No leaks - good sign.  On the second flick of the starter button she roars to life!  Nervously I wait and watch... no leaks!  Unfuggingbelievable!  This is a milestone for me.  My curse has been lifted on my third carb rebuild attempt!  I am so stoked I pause for a single malt http://www.themacallan.com/the-whisky/fine-oak/15-years-old/ and a cheap cigar in the warm spring sunshine.   A sense of smugness settles in.  

Now on goes the airbox, and.... oh wait... I can't attach the crank breather hose to the box with the carbs in the way.  So with a whiney sigh, off come the carbs - in goes the airbox - on goes the breather hose - back on go the carbs - and tighten everything up.  Turn on the key and listen to the pump cycle as it pukes gas all over the place.   Gaaarrrggggghhh!  Flick off the kill switch.  FFS AGAIN! WTF happened?!  While rasslin' the carbs back in, the fuel line popped off because some idiot forgot to put on the hose clamp.    So I do the only thing possible.  I start the bbq and cook up some steaks for dinner.  Two hrs later I come out to check on the bike and see my headlight glowing dully in the twilight.  In my haste I turned off the kill switch but didn't turn off the key.  Out comes the battery tender and I put her to bed for the night.  The next day I repeat the process, and successfully bring the carbs to an anti-climatic conclusion.  

But that's not all...

Front Fender

It has previously suffered the inevitable cracking of the mounting points on the on both sides of the rear section.  I had made a fix with some JB Weld and a washer for a backing plate and it has held up for a few years.  When I took it off to change the tire/bearings they crumbled in my hands.  Yes I know, get the RPM fork brace to eliminate the flex that causes it.  Well yes, eventually along with a few other things.  But for now time to make up that home brew of ABS cement.  I work in an automotive moulding/plating plant so instead of using Lego, I have access to literally tonnes of ABS resin.  I fill a 2oz jam jar with it and add acetone to the top.  Every few minutes I would give it a stir to break up the clumps, and within 20 min or so I had a usable liquid cement.  Using the backing washer and the piece of the original that broke I glued it all back together and then coated it with the cement.  It set up within 30 min and after 24hrs is as hard as the original.

Wellll..... I spoke too soon – again.    Gluing the fender back together made the mounting points slightly off.  Had a bitch of a time putting it back together, and actually re-broke one and had to re-re-repair it.  Finally they came together and I used two longer hex-head bolts for the repaired side mounts.  Now onto....

Krauser Hard Bag Rack

This was supposed to be straightforward (like everything else), and it surprisingly turned out so.  With a little bending and banging.  I decided to change the rear mounting bracket.  It had originally been bolted to the rear turn signal bracket.  This made for a longish bracket that put extra leverage on the bracket that was bolted to the sub-frame.  This time I directly connected it to the re-welded sub-frame mount without the signal bracket, and bolted it into an existing mount on the rack.  This shortened up the length of the bracket considerably and hopefully doesn't apply as much torque on the subframe mount where they both broke before.

Mirrors

I had previously put on some cheapo aftermarket mirrors to see less elbow.  And I got what I paid for.  They flopped around like a seagull with a broken wing so bad, I had to epoxy them in place.  So I splurged this year and bought some EMGO CBR/VFR Mirrors https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/emgo-oem-replacement-mirror-right-20-87041.html?gclid=CNyYxtnA58wCFZKCaQodOTQEQA.  These are the ones that nearly fit, but require the mounting holes to be drilled ovoid as the FJ bolt spacing is slightly shorter than the Honda.

I also used some dense foam (used for parts packaging where I work), to use as a cushion for the mount to help reduce any blurring.  Once mounted and correctly aligned there is a small gap between the rubber cover and the fairing.  I can live with this for now.

NOW! I am finally ready for the road!  

... but wait...  

All I need to do is give her a good cleaning.  I start her up and she disturbingly burps to life.  I know the carbs need synching, but she is struggling to keep idle without full choke all the time.  Hmmmm.... I feel #1 header and it's only slightly warm.  I feel #2 header – sssstt – OW! - #3 – sssstt – FUCK! - #4 – sssstt – SHIT! Those are hot!  

So #1 cylinder isn't firing.  Just great! What next?!  These were new plugs last season, so my initial thought was a bad cable connection I pulled it off and nipped it back a bit then reconnected. Same shit.  Usually at these times I do either of two things.  I step back and walk away, or I go all out Hulk and start smashing things. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiIs43VoPHMAhVL8IMKHRxEBbYQtwIIITAB&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIf4nQ058LY&usg=AFQjCNEWK1qW7a5T4DpbUldcgRCBAjduFQ   So I stepped back and texted paulfj09, my crisis management expert.  After checking a few things, we swapped the #1 and #4 plugs, and sure enough #4 was now cold.  So it was only a bad plug. A simple fix that I should have caught.  

All this in my primitive shed amongst the patio furniture.  The crate in the foreground is my work bench.  One of these days I'm gonna' build me a real shed when I grow up....  

So all in all everything turned out great, with a quick test run showing some carb synching to do at the upcoming clinic in two days.  So to steal a snippet from The Bard...    

....it is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.

MacBeth  

[ribbert]

.......In the meantime I am informed that I must use a fine thread rod (1m=$60!) to achieve the torque required. DOH!   

For anyone contemplating this challenging job, contrary to popular belief, you need a course thread bolt and for good measure I use one of these...



.....a long nut.
Less than $10 from any trade nut & bolt store for both.

You'll also need the correct size ring spanner, not an open ender, unless you plan on punching the concrete floor with your knuckles harder than you've ever punched anything in you life (and maybe get a length of pipe in the face as well)
A 1/2" drive socket makes a good tool to rest against the crankcase. Choose one just a whisker bigger than the collar your are removing (so the collar can withdraw inside the socket) and the the 1/2" drive end will slide neatly over the bolt. A couple of big flat washers under the nut will give it something smooth to turn against.


Paul, you tribulations will only make the ride all that much sweeter, you will have really earned it. You are lucky to have Paul (Wags) on your advisory committee, he knows a lot about FJ's.

Enjoy the fruits of your labour, it must be riding season up there by now?

Noel

[airheadPete]

That's the funniest saga I've read in a while.  
You, sir, will appreciate your FJ this summer like no one else can.
Good job!  

[paulfj03]

That's the funniest saga I've read in a while.  

+1. !!   

Paul, your texts are just as hilarious!  
Good on ya, for getting all that maintenance done!!! You saved yourself a bundle of money by doing it yourself. AND..., that's assuming the tech, you would have paid, did it right the first time.  

Your riding this year will be sweeter than ever! We'll have to go for a rip again, eh? (outside the GTA!  )

Paul (wags)
Disclaimer: my 'fountain of knowledge' is gained by reading this forum.  So far, for me - all my questions have been answered in detail on here by many members over the past 20+ years(?). Meeting and getting to know these 'many members' really shows me how much i need to learn.