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Started by Ross1, December 07, 2015, 07:04:38 PM

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Ross1

First FJ. '93 with 29k miles and forks that are mush. Already have (through Randy) seals and dust wipers.
Ordered Race Tech .95 springs. Have the .90's on an XJ900 and they're a bit soft.

If I have the forks off, good time to replace the brake lines... Suggestions, please. Should the calipers/MC be rebuilt at this point?
Bikes very new to me. Spin around the block and one finger gives GREAT braking. (I'm thinking "yes" but if anybody cares to disagree, it'll save me a headache's worth of work.)

From what I've read, just going to order the RPM valves. As long as everything is apart, DO IT!

Didn't notice any wobble. I'd rather not redo the headset.  From an efficiency p.o.v., pita fairing and all, should it be done now?

Opinions, please.  Fat guy rider. 5 wt fork fluid or 10 wt?
                                                                                  This forum reminds me of XJbikes.com, which is a compliment of the highest order.
                                                                                                                       Thanks, Ross

markmartin

If your going with the RPM valves on your forks, drop Randy a PM and ask him what he suggests and he will set you up with the right spring rate and fork oil to go with the valves.  This is important.  His username is racerrad8  Or go to https://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39

Post a pic of the  brakes that you have, or describe them in detail.  Are they stock? calipers and Master cylinder? do you have rubber brake lines?

Also, while you are swapping out the seals and wipers, change the bushings too.  You'll wish that you had if you don't. RPM will set you up with the right parts.


FJmonkey

The RPM valves require 5W oil, they are very quick to respond to road conditions. Quick enough that lighter springs are recommended. When I installed them I thought the Bots Dots between the lanes were painted on. The RPM valves really absorb the road. I might need lighter than the .85KG springs with my 200+ pounds with gear. And my preload spacers are also in need of inspection, they might be a bit short. 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Mark Olson

5wt.fork oil will be OK , just adjust oil level higher at 120mm./5 1/2".
That will compensate for your girth.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

Ross1

Thanks, everybody.
I'll contact RPM to order the bushings, 5 wt. oil and, among other sundries, their cool fork oil height tool.
I can get syringes at work, but the stiff tube with cap will pay for the toy w/ first use.

markmartin


racerrad8

Quote from: Ross1 on December 07, 2015, 07:04:38 PM
First FJ. '93 with 29k miles and forks that are mush. Already have (through Randy) seals and dust wipers.
Ordered Race Tech .95 springs. Have the .90's on an XJ900 and they're a bit soft.
From what I've read, just going to order the RPM valves. As long as everything is apart, DO IT!
Opinions, please.  Fat guy rider. 5 wt fork fluid or 10 wt?                                                                             
                                                                                                                 Thanks, Ross
Ross,

I know you talked with Robert this morning and discussed the options. I will be back to the shop after lunch and can also give you a call and discuss this.

I can tell you the .95 springs are too stiff and they will not allow the bypass function of the valve to operate. This results in a very harsh ride. If you have a set of .90 in your XS, then swap them out for the .95's and put the .90's in your FJ.

Also, not only the fork oil weight is critical is also has many other requirements and all fork oils are not the same. The fork valves require the light oil as they cannot flow heavier oils fast enough through the valves. Other have tried this and all have experienced negative results.

Also, the air gap is a tuning tool, but the spring preload if the most critical in getting the RPM valves tuned in properly.

Follow the RPM instructions only to the letter and you will be set up with only minor tuning required. if you try and set-up by any other instructions you will be unhappy.

If there is anything I can answer give me a call this afternoon.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM