Damper rod Allen bolts

[PaulG]

The Allen bolts for the damper rods on my '92 front forks had seized. Tried to remove them with my air gun and they wouldn't budge. I had replaced the seals 5 yrs ago and the bolts spun out without too much trouble back then. This time they wouldn't budge. Had to take them to a shop and even they had a bitch of a time getting them out. One eventually freed up but the second kept spinning, so they had to insert a rod from the top side to hold it in place before it would free up.

I know this can happen, but is there anything that can be done once I replace the seals and reassemble them, so it won't happen next time?  Would a very light application of anti-seize agent be ok? Or is this just the nature of beast, and it is bound to happen occasionally?

Ended up costing me $100 so I would like to avoid this the next time.

[Steve_in_Florida]

If I read your post correctly, you were attempting to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the fork WITHOUT securing the damper rod inside the fork, yes?

To keep the damper rod from spinning, you have to hold it from the INSIDE with a tool such as this:



RPM carries them (of course!): http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder

Steve

[Tiger]

The key to this is, IMHO, is to make sure that you torque them down to the correct value...Allen bolts = 27 ft.-lb.

A wee touch of anti-seize helps...but remember, it also changes your torque values.

I made a tool from a length of M18 threaded rod and two coupling nuts to hold the inners during disassembly/reassembly.

The meter long rod was cut in half and two coupling nuts installed at either end. I used Red Loctite but then decided to drill the nuts and install split pins...VOILA!!! I also added heat shrink from one coupling nut to the other, prior to installing the last coupling nut. This makes it 'wipe clean' and also helps to eliminate any damage by the threads on the fork innards/outer top edge...

A single coupling nut, and socket, works well for the top cap removal and torque...

Total $$ outlay, approx' $25.00 AND all available at your local hardware store... Home Depot, Home Hardware, etc

I hope this helps

John.

[FJ1100mjk]

On my most recent fork rebuild, I used an old wooden handle from a worn-out shovel I had laying around. The diameter of the handle was a little over the what the internal hexes were on top of the damper rod. I tapped the handle into the top of the damper rod, and it held it tight. Worked for both loosening and tightening the the bottom screws. 0$, and I'm keeping the tool? around, for another rebuild if needed.

For some reason, I think that I came up with the idea, because someone here, or someone outside this forum, posted the idea of using an old broom handle. Anyways, it worked for me. 

[movenon]

I think this is an 18mm bolt about 2 1/2 inch's long with an old yard sale 11/16 3/8 inch drive socket tacked on the end.


Clamped the 3/8 drive with extension into the vise to hold the dampener rod while undoing the Allen head at the bottom.

George

[PaulG]

Thanks all very much.  Funny how the Clymer manual never mentions this/these methods.  I guess the "old fashioned" method of compressing the fork while undoing the bolt is no longer valid.  Worked fine for my previous bikes, but then this is the "newest" and heaviest bike I've owned (outside of the '97 R1100 GS which had the Telelever front end).

I'll have to get the tool for this asap cuz in 5 yrs when I do this again, I will have forgotten completely.  Then it'll be that Groundhog Day thing again, and again...   

This takes care off the rod from spinning.  As far as seizing goes is this still something that will happen at random?  I know I would have used a torque wrench the last time I assembled them.  If I were to use a slight amount of ant-seize on them how much should I back off on the torque?  Would you even recommend this?

Thx

[FJ1100mjk]

The Factory Service Manual states to use a threadlocker like Loctite on the screws' threads. I used medium strength when I rebuilt mine. You could tell by the residue on the threads of the screws, that it was used before too.

I wouldn't recommend anti-seize, and backing off on the factory specified torque for the screws.

[FJmonkey]

Most torque specs cut the lubricated threads to half of the dry torque. I have done some quality testing on this in my last life and agree. Liquid thread lock and anti-seize are lubricants. Over torque risks damage to the bolt or parent threads.