Another FJ12 Front & Rear Modification

[FJools]

Latest Update:

I have decided to stick with the OEM forks after discovering they have had some racetech updates & emulators on them.
I settled on dropping them 25mm through the yokes which seems to work ok. The R6 arrangement with FJ triples just didn't work out. The fork spacing on the FJ is about 7mm wider than the R6. So either the R6 or FJ wheels would require a lot of work/axle/spacer & bearing changes.

I also ordered a mid range Wilbers shock, preload & rebound adjustment, from Germany to replace the original. This won't arrive before the Nowra Manshed day, which would have been a good work out for it.

Lastly, the ancient tyres were changed for a pair of Michellin Pilot Road 4's which have transformed the bike immensely. a 120/70 section front and a 170/70 x 17" rear. I can't believe the difference in handling and turning this change has made. (new tyres often have that effect)

The only other thing I have to look at is the RH footrest position as it doesn't feel right. Maybe its had a tumble on this side at some stage and the mtg plate is out of alignment.

Oh, I also found some dual pod filters from RPM in a box the other day that I had completely forgotten about............... with some replacement domes head bolts.

Is it advisable to replace these head bolts one at a time, torqueing each one or is it likely to promote head gasket sealing problems ?

[Pat Conlon]

Yes indeed, I love my PR-4's. There are better handling tires available but none have the wet road capabilities or the mileage of the PR-4's. They're impressive tires.

What's wrong with the current head nuts?  Do not replace them, just to replace them. Why tempt fate?

It's ok to do just one head nut at a time. Torque to 25ft/lbs

[edit] we are talking about the acorn head nuts, correct? Not the valve cover grommet bolts...

[FJools]

Hi Pat

missed this reply,,,,,,,,,,,,

Yes the acorn nuts were pretty scabby and I got a shiny new set from RPM but I know what you mean and I though a single nut swap and torque I might get away with. Since I have to replace the valve stem seals now it may be simpler to just pull the head off unless I make up the gear to do the change without lifting the head. Still undecided.

On another matter Christmas came early this week...............

[FJools]

After returning from a full weekend recertification course for work (F*ck this modern beurocracy bullsh*t)

I got home early enough yesterday to consider fitting the Wilbers shock.

The old shock came off easy enough nut the Wilbers wouldn't go in the swing arm unless I turned it 180 degrees so it seems the mounts are slightly offset............
Any how then i realised the problem, the mod for fitting the Thunderace swing arm with any shock other than standard, requires the brace plates around the shock tunnel to be relieved to allow clearance.

So out came the swing arm and I noticed that the LH exhaust had been rubbing the side of it. The bracket must have got bent inwards when some goon knocked the bike over a few months ago. This is going to need some serious tidying up.

Using an air hacksaw I carved out a clearance that I marked around the shock spring in the top and bottom plates and cleaned up the cuts. Unfortunately the only way to check the clearance is by refitting it all, and you guessed I need to nibble some more out as it just catches the spring at the bottom plate.

Hot, sweaty and greasy i called it a day and went for a long soak in the bath............

[Pat Conlon]

1) Put some washers between the aluminum side plates and the frame. It will give you a bit more room.
2) to get more clearance I take the steel bushings out of the rubber exhaust dampers. I use a steel collar inside the rubber bushings where the bolt passes through....speaking of bolts...
3) Use stainless button head (low profile, more clearance) bolts for your exhaust. Put the button heads facing the inside, towards the swing arm, use stainless acorn head nuts on the outside, with blue thread locker.
4) Check the passenger foot peg mount nuts for contact with the top of the swing arm. I put the bolts on with red thread locker, torqued them down, let them dry then took the side plates off and shaved down the nuts with my belt sander. No more nicking the top edge of the swingarm with the edges of the nuts.

Hope this helps.

Pat

[FJools]

Cheers Pat,

I may have another look later this week if I get chance. Otherwise it will be the weekend again.
And with the festive season coming up there are always other things that get in the way...........

[Pat Conlon]

No worries, enjoy the holidays.

Also, I forgot to ask, did you review Mark Rittner's Thunder Ace installation specs. he posted on Barry Edwards FJ Mod site?
The reason I asked is, that along with trimming the gusset plates (which you discovered) you have to put a "fly cut" in the swingarm to clear the spring on the shock.

[FJools]

I did at the time of the mods, and I was intending to dig out the print I made of his work as I seem to recall that it was more involved.

You have just confirmed my suspicions..............