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Quick question - do the collars on the rear axle sit flush?

Started by wirehairs, April 25, 2015, 12:15:40 PM

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wirehairs

I just replaced my rear tire and I'm trying to put it back on the bike, but the two collars don't sit flush against the bearing (on one side) or the grease seal on the other.  Should they?  I replaced all the bearings, and certainly thought I have them fully inserted.  Here are the pics. 




Pat Conlon

No, they don't sit flush. As long as the bearings are fully seated in the rim, you should be fine.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Mark Olson

Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

wirehairs

Thanks for the input.

I'm quite embarrassed to admit that I still can't get the rear wheel back on.  The clearances seem to just be too tight - the inner lip of the sensor housing can't slip under that arm supporting the rear brake caliper.  I did make sure again that I fully seated the bearings I replaced, and tried again, but still no dice.  I made sure the disks were slipping between the pads too, and that this wasn't the issue.

I appreciate your help!!

Mark Olson

try resting tire on block of wood for proper axle height , then place spacers and abs onto wheel along with the brake stay. feed the axle bolt thru . sometimes wheel gets cocked to one side and seems like it won't fit. wiggle, wiggle, wiggle.   If you have a major space problem over 1/4" something is wrong.

The swingarm will flex wider apart to compensate , just not a bunch.
Make sure the cush drive is all the way in.
Make sure the abs dropped into the slot in the wheel.

hope this helps , all I got.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

aviationfred

Quote from: Mark Olson on April 26, 2015, 07:27:46 PM
try resting tire on block of wood for proper axle height , then place spacers and abs onto wheel along with the brake stay. feed the axle bolt thru . sometimes wheel gets cocked to one side and seems like it won't fit. wiggle, wiggle, wiggle.   If you have a major space problem over 1/4" something is wrong.

The swingarm will flex wider apart to compensate , just not a bunch.
Make sure the cush drive is all the way in.
Make sure the abs dropped into the slot in the wheel.

hope this helps , all I got.

I have no experience with the anti-lock system, so if I give misinformation pardon me.

Bearings, spacers and cush drive are what we are discussing. For driving bearings, I use a milk crate and a Harbor Freight bearing driver kit. When driving the bearings, the tone of the hammer hit will change when the bearing is seated. A side note, make sure the inner axle sleeve is installed. If it is not, the bearings can fail and destroy your wheel. With the cush drive, with the many miles that are on many FJ's, the cush drive has a memory and only likes to go together in one position. If it won't seat well, pull I out and clock it one position until it seats well.



My 2 cents.


Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

ribbert

Quote from: wirehairs on April 26, 2015, 06:40:39 PM
Thanks for the input.

I'm quite embarrassed to admit that I still can't get the rear wheel back on.  The clearances seem to just be too tight - the inner lip of the sensor housing can't slip under that arm supporting the rear brake caliper.  I did make sure again that I fully seated the bearings I replaced, and tried again, but still no dice.  I made sure the disks were slipping between the pads too, and that this wasn't the issue.

I appreciate your help!!

The last 3 FJ's I've done needed the swing arm spread a whisker to get the wheel in.

It is much easier if you remove the pads (or the caliper) too. It won't give you any more clearance but will make it easier to wriggle around.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

wirehairs

I overcame my incompetence and got the wheel on.  Yeah - it was a matter of alignment and having it in the right plane due to the narrow clearance.  I popped off the front now and am getting that rubber changed.

BTW, does anyone know why they stress so much not to allow the rear or front hub sensor to touch metal when you remove it?  I'm wondering what happens if you do. I just wrap it with a cloth and elastics afterwards while I'm working on it.

FJ_Hooligan

It's magnetic, maybe they are afraid it will decrease the magnetism (and thus the signal from that sensor)?

Or maybe it's to avoid picking up metallic debris that could interfere with the signal?

I always stuck mine in a ziplock bag.
DavidR.