Another +1 for #40 pilot jets!

[Capn Ron]

Ron, you are correct about "staring at snow drifts". Although the long winters in my area offer time to do mods and maintenance, I'd rather be riding.

Hey Marty...no worries about the hijack...I think threads ebb and flow and we all get something out of them.

I grew up in a part of the country that had forced down-time due to snow drifts... (upstate NY) and in some senses, I miss that.  Ehhh...who am I kidding?  I continue to live in SoCal and all that implies for the weather and the nearly 365 days of riding and sailing!!!   

[charleygofast]

 Okay, I'm taking it back to the posted topic for a minute. I too am running #115 mains and #40 pilot jets in my FJ, an 84. My pilot jets are the type with no holes on the sides. The stock #37.5 jets were that type also. Is this an early FJ carb setup, do the later models have a different carb, or jetting setup? I originally tried to run the type with the side holes and it ran like shit. no idle and stumbled till about 3500 rpm. Once I put the holeless ones in she ran excellent and continues to this day! There is a difference...right?                                                                                                                                                                     Charley.                                             

[racerrad8]

Okay, I'm taking it back to the posted topic for a minute. I too am running #115 mains and #40 pilot jets in my FJ, an 84. My pilot jets are the type with no holes on the sides. The stock #37.5 jets were that type also. Is this an early FJ carb setup, do the later models have a different carb, or jetting setup? I originally tried to run the type with the side holes and it ran like shit. no idle and stumbled till about 3500 rpm. Once I put the holeless ones in she ran excellent and continues to this day! There is a difference...right?                                                                                                                                                                     Charley.                                             

Charley,

There is no difference in the jets with the side holes and without. The side holes do two things, it give a place for debris to go instead of just to the microscopic hole causing it plug and to aid in cleaning later as the holes allow more access for cleaner solution to get into the jet.

The metering portion of the jet is always the microscopic hole at the tip of the jet which is sealed by the taper seat of the jet, so...

There is no difference in the metering of the actual jet.

Randy - RPM

[cclase]

Bminder,
Regarding adding slide needle shims-in my case I have an OEM slide needles, so they aren't adjustable like an aftermarket needle that has grooves would be.  However, it is possible to utilize uniformly sized washers, x01 per needle, to effect the height of the needle in the main jet "tube".  My understanding is that one washer should be placed between the circlip and plastic alignment piece.  This is what we did with my '85...sorry, I don't have any pics of this, however, if you check out the illustrated carb cleaning procedure in the carb files section, you'll find pictures that will give you the idea.  There is also a topic "shimming needles" (topic=11325.0) where Randy explains proper placement (Thanks Randy!).

Chris

[racerrad8]

Do you mod this shift kit in any way before your sell it? I installed the same brand kit (with the stiffer spring, and roller bearing detent roller) on another bike that was notorious for false neutrals, and crunching sounds that would make you cringe when you stabbed at the lever while in one of those false neutrals. It definitely cleared up the false neutrals, and did exhibit positive shifting. However, the shifting was not "buttery smooth", in fact it became more notchy. Something that I would attribute to the stiffer spring. All and all, it was a mod that was necessary on that particular bike, because of the false neutrals that plagued it.

Did you buy the RPM roller detent or the F/P kit?

I do not modify the kit in any form that I sell, I use a high quality roller bearing detent lever. The reason I stopped carrying the "other" kit was because when they arrived, the detent lever was in a small plastic bag that was marked, "made in china".

I also did a fair amount of testing with differing springs to get the correct tension so that there is not a significant amount of lever force, but provides more pressure on the detent lever bearing which accelerates the shift cam speed and quicker positive shifts.

Randy - RPM

[movenon]

I installed Randy's kit a while back and while I would not call it "buttery smooth" it did make the shifting more positive.  A good mod especally if you are working in the clutch area.  What I found on mine was that the stock roller was a little sloppy and I am sure the 20-30 year old stock spring wasn't as good as it use to be when new. The kit has a new and improved roller bearing and with the new spring provides more positive shifting. I personally seem to notice it more on down shifting but works both ways. Here is a picture. The spring is the old one.

George

[FJ1100mjk]

Did you buy the RPM roller detent or the F/P kit?

Randy - RPM

Factory Pro. It was for my much-missed Honda VFR750F.

Too bad the kit didn't come with the spring tuning by Randy feature. I put over 20,000 miles on the bike after the kit was installed, and the shifting was always notchy. But like I said, the false neutrals and dreaded gearbox crunching were eliminated. $ well spent. Didn't have to remove the clutch for the install either, which was nice.