master link chain

[Ront]

Is a master link chain ok on a fj1200?  I thought they recommend endless only where you have to drop the swing-arm to install. Thanks

[Arnie]

A rivet link is safer than a clip type master.  Remember, you have a LOT of torque trying to stretch that chain  and any weakness will be exploited.  If the chain comes apart, you are likely to need to replace the crankcases, assuming you're not badly hurt (and no longer care).
Do not use a cheap lightweight chain!  If you do use a clip type link, safety wire it.

[Ront]

What do you mean safety wire it?

[rktmanfj]

Some guys do it like this:

[FeralRdr]

Or like this,



Just my .02, but I much prefer the rivet style links.  Having said that, I never had a clip pop off on my FJ when I ran clip links.  I have since made the switch to Rivet style and have found them to be not that more difficult to install than a clip.  Yes you need a chain rivet tool, but you can get decent ones from Stockton Tools for about $30 USD if you shop around.  About the only difference found in the installation method comes at the point where you would install the clip on the pins of the master clip.  Instead of installing the clip, you simply take your rivet tool and align the riveting head with one of the master link's pins.  Snug the head down onto the pin by hand, then use the appropriate sized wrench for your riveting tool to tighten the tools riveting head into the master link's pin.  Your tool should give you some guidance as to how much torque, or how many turns of the wrench is needed (shouldn't be that much).  This will force the riveting head into the pin, thus deforming it into a slight mushroom shape (which is what you want), and as long as it's a nice uniform shape your good to go.  Simply back off the wrench, move it to the next pin and repeat.


One other tip, you don't want to use the chain breaker part of the tool to break the chain.  Even with high quality tools, it's not a question of whether or not it will break, but of when.  The pins for chain breaking are notorious for breaking on these tools.  High end tools just do you the courtesy of including replacement pins.  Instead, if your breaking a continuous chain (or one with a rivet master link installed already), use a power drill, Dremel Moto-Tool, or some other type of rotary tool that has a grinding stone/cutting wheel attachment installed to grind or cut down the rivets on one of the links.  Once the rivets are ground off, insert a medium sized flat head screw driver between the outer plate and the inner links and give it a good twist.  The outer plate should pop right off.

Lastly, if you do decide to go with a clip, I would suggest carrying a couple of spare master links in your tool kit, especially if you like to ride in out of the way areas.  I've seen too many people stuck on the side of the road because of the clip popping off their master link, and consequently they end up losing all or part of it. 

[andyoutandabout]

Even though I'm a cheap bugger, I always invest wisely in quality brake pads, tires and chains. Hence I'm a D.I.D. user when it comes to chains and the first tool I bought was a Pro Motion chain breaker/sealer. I might be a bit paranoid on the chain thing, but I try to remember to lube it every 500 or so, certainly after a rainy ride. Can't recall the last time I had to adjust it, so something must be going right. I always take the tension reading with me sat on the bike, after all that's how it operates all the time (except if I really load up on luggage - but that doesn't make much difference now I've had the rear shock revalved).
Andy