Changing out clutch...

[the fan]

What did your friction discs measure. The difference between good and bad is not readily visible to the naked eye. I recently rebuilt Deans clutch and on initial inspection everything looked fine. Once measured all of the friction plates were out of spec and all but 2 of the steels were warped out of spec.

For the record I don't see the point in doubling the spring. Refreshing the spring with a new part (FJ or FJR) is a good idea every now and then but the stock spring is plenty. Dean is a good example of this, he rides as hard or harder than any FJ'er I have met and the stock clutch works just fine for him. The DeanabagoII had around 60,000 miles on it when I went through the clutch after a life of questionable maintenance (prior to Dean, he actually takes very good care of his bikes) most of the parts that were out of spec were only out by a sall margin and there was no "burn" marks on the steels from excessive slippage.

I run stock clutch setups in all my bikes and several of you know how abusive I can be....

[higbonzo]

What did your friction discs measure. The difference between good and bad is not readily visible to the naked eye. I recently rebuilt Deans clutch and on initial inspection everything looked fine. Once measured all of the friction plates were out of spec and all but 2 of the steels were warped out of spec.

I didn't measure the steel plates. But they were not burned or warped.  My bike has about 50,000 miles clock in, and it was just time for things to be replaced. 

I got out of it cheap.  I purchase a good set of friction plate (ferodo) off e-bay for $55.00 shipped, a complete used clutch set up for $38.00 shipped ( used the spring), and new gasket and Barnett steel plates $68.00 from local dealer.   I am using the Dual Spring set up and I am very happy with it.  I think because the springs both have about 50,000 miles on them it keeps the clutch pull pressure down.  Don't get me wrong, there is certainly increased pressure, but it is nothing I can't deal with.

I am very happy with the work and parts I put into the clutch, and it is nice to crank the throttle at 15-20 mph. and be able to yank the front tire off the ground again.     It put the excitement back into my bike. 

Later.....

[Arnie]

Yes, the 2nd spring will stay in place.  You do, of course, have to put it under the "keeper" with the original spring.

Cheers,
Arnie

[europe50]

It sounds like I also will be needing a couple of clutch parts. In the picture below are the fiber discs #9? During the fiber disc change, is it common to need #10?
Also, in the picture below, where is this clutch spring that I should change with a fresh (cheaper) FJR spring for more grabbing power?

[rktmanfj]

#14.  Spring, Clutch.     

Randy T
Indy

[europe50]

Thanks Randy!

Anyone else know in the picture above are the fiber discs #9? During the fiber disc change, is it common to need #10?

[Marsh White]

It sounds like I also will be needing a couple of clutch parts. In the picture below are the fiber discs #9? During the fiber disc change, is it common to need #10?
Also, in the picture below, where is this clutch spring that I should change with a fresh (cheaper) FJR spring for more grabbing power?

The spring is #14.  As it appears you already know: the FJR spring is IDENTICAL to the FJ spring - just cheaper in price.  #10 and #7 are the same.  They go in between each of the discs #9.  There are small indentions on the metal plates #10 & #7.  If they are worn down and smoothed out you should change them too.  You would need a quantity of 6 of part #9.  A quantity of 7 of part number #10 for a full change out.

[europe50]

Marsh White,
Thanks allot for the info!

[racerrad8]

...or is it mandatory I replace all #9, #7 and #10?

That is only a question you can answer. The fiber discs and steel plates have a minimum measurement spec that warrants replacement. The minimum spec for the fibers discs is 2.8mm(.11 in) and the steels can only have 0.1mm (0.004 in) of warpage on a flat surface. The diaphragm spring height minimum tolerance is 6.0mm (0.240 in) at the center to the level surface. Lastly, the spring warpage tolerance is also 0.1mm (0.004 in).

I noted, with a link, in my previous response that there was the procedure of removing the small rear/inner clutch disc and replacing it with the larger one.

If you currently have minor slippage, I would add the second spring and give it a try. If then you still have slipping issues they can be addressed from there.

Let me know directly if I can be assistance with either guidance or parts.

Randy - RPM
rpm@swaybar.com

[europe50]

Hey Randy,
I hope I don't look like a dope asking, but where is the link in your previously responce that there was the procedure of removing the small rear/inner clutch disc and replacing it with the larger one?
Thanks!

[racerrad8]

I posted it to your "clutch lever pull distance..." thread, sorry they are similar. Here it is again: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1014.msg7367#msg7367

Randy - RPM