New Nissin clutch m/c and late model choke cable

[Goetz]

Sick of finding hydraulic fluid on my clothing and bike. Bit the (rather expensive) bullet today and ordered a new m/c from dime city. 7/8" Universal Nissin Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder - (Black Electroplate, 14mm Piston). And a choke cable from RPM, since the handlebar actuated choke assy wont work now (that cable was hosed anyways) Now I need, lets see, intake boots, a fork seal driver, tires, fix the exhaust stud, and get a new exhaust.

[Goetz]

Now, should i switch to dot5?

[rktmanfj]

Now, should i switch to dot5?

[Goetz]

 
And I also heard about atf in the forks instead of oil. Now, Im a solid 230lbs, my Wife is 140, and she loves to ride. Im running an f4i rear shock and its doing ok but the front is mush.

[jscgdunn]

Fork oil: Clymer manual says use good oild 1030 motor oil.  I use synthetic to be fancy.

Jeff

[gdfj12]

I just did the FJR master cyls. on my '89, with the FJR monoblock calipers & new Spiegler brake lines (2-line kit) & it's all great now. I did have YZF calipers & braided lines before, but the new master cyl. with adjustable lever is a bit nicer. The clutch master also is adjustable & the 2 match in looks also. I've been using high performance DOT 4, similar to DOT 3 but higher boiling points, if you switch to DOT 5 you should at a min. tear down the calipers & thoroughly clean all of the parts that see fluid before putting back together, or better yet clean & use new seals. DOT 5 is silicone based & has a tendency to attract air, whereas DOT 3 & 4 are petroleum based & hygroscopic (attract water). DOT 3 & 4 are easier to find & can be mixed, so better for emergencies.

For fork oil, find a good quality one & if the 10w is too mushy for you and your wife riding, try going up to 15w or 20w. I think I was using 15w before changing my forks out to YZF600r ones. They were a bit soft still & dived a bit, even with Racetech Gold Valve Emulators. If you have the stock fork springs in there, those will need to be replaced with ones to fit the weight of rider, passenger & riding style. Do you also need fork seals replaced?  I picked up on of the fancy fork seal drivers off of amazon.com & it worked great. Easy as pie. It cost about $43. Worth it for me, this set of seals was the 4th or 5th set I've done. Home made tools can be made if you are creative & have sufficient scrap material laying around. Depending on the mileage on the bike, you may want to consider replacing the bushings also. And adding the Triumph style fork protectors.

George
gdfj12
'89 FJ1200, 'slightly' modified, lifetime MA member ;^)

[FJmonkey]

Depending on how far you want to go with your forks I can recommend the RPM valves and straight rate springs. The RPM vlaves changes the way I think about suspension. The valves and hydraulics do more of the work and way better than any spring can. Had I stayed stock I would need .95 to 1.0 KG springs, with the RPM valves I have .85 KG and get excelent performance from the forks now. The RPM valves need lighter springs and oil to react to surface conditions rapidly and smoothly. You will want springs heavyier than .85 KG but will love how they feel over rougher surfaces... Now I am saving up for the recently released RPM shock...

[Goetz]

Hmmmm. I cant justify the cost of the rpm valves in a front end im probably going to replace. I like the look of the nissins, and current production is nice.  Will replace he brake master as well later. I don't use the rear brake mutch, unless I want to go a little sideways, which is hella unsafe anyways. I may look in to stiffer springs. So no dot 5 then. Seems like 2 much hassle, not enough r.o.i.

[FJmonkey]

Hmmmm. I cant justify the cost of the rpm valves in a front end im probably going to replace. I like the look of the nissins, and current production is nice.  Will replace he brake master as well later. I don't use the rear brake mutch, unless I want to go a little sideways, which is hella unsafe anyways. I may look in to stiffer springs. So no dot 5 then. Seems like 2 much hassle, not enough r.o.i.

If you stay with FJ forks then the RPM valves will transfer. No need to wait for a good front end.

[Goetz]

Installed the nissin and the choke cable yesterday after the old clutch m/c pissed hydraulic fluid all over a nice polo on my lunch break. Should have done it sooner but oh well. Swapped out nicely, mirror position is not so great, i see more shoulder now but clutch feel is waaaaaay better with the radial piston and it looks cool. Im going to swap the brake m/c out next month as well, then rpm valves and block off plates and theeeeeen a rear shock, and theeeeeeeeeen an exhaust. who needs to eat.

[FJSpringy]

And I also heard about atf in the forks instead of oil. Now, Im a solid 230lbs, my Wife is 140, and she loves to ride. Im running an f4i rear shock and its doing ok but the front is mush.

apart from all the excellent advice in this thread

you weigh 250 lbs and your wife weighs 120 

[Goetz]

HAHAAAAAA well. ahem. Right, thanks.