How Long?

[Woodsman]

Going to give my bike to a local bike mechanic to change my chain and sprockets, just wondering how long you guys think this should take? I realise that things are not always  straightforward on older bikes but let's assume it all goes according to plan. Is there something to be done to the clutch aswell after the line is removed or just bolted back up again?
Thanks, Sean.

[FJmonkey]

I can do the chain and both sprockets in an hour or less (not rushing the job) with air tools and no lift table. Most of the time is removing the rear wheel and the reassembly of said rear wheel.

[Woodsman]

Was thinking an hour would cover it alright. Don't have a chain tool so quite happy to hand it over. Not sure what sprocket is up front but it has a 45 on the back, plenty quick but a bit buzzy. Lots running 18/40 which is what's going on next, will bring down the revs a bit on longer runs.
What about the clutch does it need bleeding when the line is moved to do the front sprocket?

[FJmonkey]

Was thinking an hour would cover it alright. Don't have a chain tool so quite happy to hand it over. Not sure what sprocket is up front but it has a 45 on the back, plenty quick but a bit buzzy. Lots running 18/40 which is what's going on next, will bring down the revs a bit on longer runs.
What about the clutch does it need bleeding when the line is moved to do the front sprocket?

No, the slave stays sealed as long as you don't work the lever while it is off. You also don't want to start the engine with the salve off, or shall I say if you do start the engine, make sure there is a cat around. You can get some cat spearing practice in for the next rally games.... Keep some extra oil handy too, you will need to top off after you spear the cat. 

[yamaha fj rider]

You may want to check the cost of a chain tool. You can buy them from from Cycle Gear on sale for $40 US. Don't know what the shipping would be but still might cost less. Hope this helps?

www.cyclegear.com/
Kurt

[movenon]

Was thinking an hour would cover it alright. Don't have a chain tool so quite happy to hand it over. Not sure what sprocket is up front but it has a 45 on the back, plenty quick but a bit buzzy. Lots running 18/40 which is what's going on next, will bring down the revs a bit on longer runs.
What about the clutch does it need bleeding when the line is moved to do the front sprocket?

IF you don't operate the clutch lever while the slave is unbolted then no, you don't need to rebleed. If you operate the lever with the slave off then the puck will come out of the bore and fluid will be all over the place...

BUT if you haven't changed the clutch fluid in a while I would recommend that after you bolt it back on, to bleed the slave Cly keeping the master topped off . Water and crap will settle in the slave Cly over time and because they are pron to failing (sometimes because of corrosion in the bore, .... water) I would advise to bleed some fluid and put some new in. You can do that yourself after the chain is on.

Be carefull not to mix synthetic brake fluid with regular DOT 3 or 4. And do not over TQ the small bolts holding the cover and slave on . TQ there is only 7.5 ft lbs.
George

[Woodsman]

You may want to check the cost of a chain tool. You can buy them from from Cycle Gear on sale for $40 US. Don't know what the shipping would be but still might cost less. Hope this helps?

www.cyclegear.com/
Kurt

I should buy a tool but i need to give this lad some work as sometimes i bring stuff to him and he doesn't charge me. Very handy.
Thanks Monkey and George, plenty good info there for me.
Sean.

[aviationfred]

This is the same Chain Riveting/Breaker set that I have. It does a great job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chain-Breaker-Riveter-Riveting-Tool-Yamaha-FJ1100-FJ-1100-Motorcycle-/180912660327?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a1f3c1f67

Fred