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Brake rotors

Started by roryd, April 27, 2013, 03:55:54 PM

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fj11.5

#15
April 28, 2013, 06:03:18 PM
Just need to grow two more arms , to go with my second tasmanian head  :biggrin:,,
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

craigslist1340

#16
April 28, 2013, 07:58:04 PM
Hello, I removed my rotors to powder coat the wheels. No amount of penetrating oil will loosen the locking compound on the screws. You need to use heat to break the bond, then use an impact that you hit with a hammer, and the correct metric allen socket. If you do that , you won't mess up any screws.
John K.
1985 FJ1100, 1989 FJ1200, 1984 FJ1100, 69-70 Honda z50's times 3,  1973 Honda CT70.

paulfj03

#17
April 28, 2013, 09:18:30 PM
So ........ the proper allen key, some heat, and impact to break the bond of the threadlock and any corrosion that has seized the rotor to the rim.... is the order here eh..?

When I was working at it I thought of heat, but balked at it thinking that I might warp the rotor...
Has anyone ruined a rotor by using heat (like a propane torch?) to help remove the bolts?

FJmonkey

#18
April 28, 2013, 09:23:59 PM
Quote from: paulfj03 on April 28, 2013, 09:18:30 PM
So ........ heat with impact to break the bond of the threadlock and any corrosion that has seized the rotor to the rim.... is the order here eh..?

When I was working at it I thought of heat, but balked at it thinking that I might warp the rotor...
Has anyone ruined a rotor by using heat (like a propane torch?) to help remove the bolts?



Er... heat is what they are designed to take.... What do you think happens when you are clipping along and then grab a hand full of break lever? Your momentum is converted from inertia/kinetic energy to heat. They can take it...
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

ribbert

#19
April 28, 2013, 09:41:58 PM
Quote from: paulfj03 on April 28, 2013, 09:18:30 PM
So ........ the proper allen key, some heat, and impact to break the bond of the threadlock and any corrosion that has seized the rotor to the rim.... is the order here eh..?

When I was working at it I thought of heat, but balked at it thinking that I might warp the rotor...
Has anyone ruined a rotor by using heat (like a propane torch?) to help remove the bolts?



Yes, the proper tool and some form of impact.

If, as I recall, you are removing the rotors to paint your wheels, and will be refitting them, the heat will ruin the paint on the discs.

Also, the amount of heat required to be effective is more than I would like to apply to rotors I was refitting.

I have found propane ineffective for loosening bolts, it doesn't burn hot enough.

The thread lock keeps the corrosion at bay so you only have to deal with that and it IS only thread lock after all.

I recently removed some after 100,000k's that had never been off. They're not THAT tight.

Noel

"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

andyb

#20
April 29, 2013, 07:54:52 AM
Propane works fine for me to break threadlocker's grip on things.  It doesn't take a quick wave of the flame, it takes a good bit of time, but it works well enough and isn't hot enough to really destroy things.
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