The elusive coffin-style clutch reservoir diaphragm for FJ1100

[fj316]

When I realised that the reservoir diaphragm gaskets were supposed to be flat and not concave I felt it was my first step towards the enlightenment. But the darkness loomed as I was only able to get the one for the brake reservoir as the clutch one seems notoriously hard to get, especially in Norway with shipping being double or triple the part itself.

I have a couple of feelers out for the part but there are two questions on the road to completion.

First off the original part number 36Y-26454-00(-00) is almost identical to the 1AE-26454-00 and I have yet to discover that they are different even though the latter is for the 1200 series and later models than the 1100. Google image searches return presumably the same style diaphragm gasket and the microfiches I have seen also have the coffin shape for both part numbers.

So the first question is if my hunch about the gaskets being the same is one to be followed and worth risking a "blind" order of the 1AE part if I can't find a 36Y.

The second one is what master cylinders are viable alternatives if I am unable to find a diaphragm to fit the current one? I would prefer one that can simply replace the one that is on now without any further adjustments. I saw a fj1100 at my local chop-shop which I noticed had a square clutch m/c so I assume this is a somewhat common mod due to the fact that the original gasket is discontinued and seems to be very elusive.

[Arnie]

Those part numbers are for the same part just for different models of bike (prefix difference).

OR, you can check the compatibility by following Pat Conlons step-by-step here;
   http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5863.msg51269#msg51269

Any other master will work.  Things to be careful of are bore size, bar mount size, switch connections.
Many have changed from the 5/8" bore OEM mastercylinders to 14mm bore mastercylinders.  This gives lighter squeeze, but more lever movement.

Arnie

[aviationfred]

This clutch master will work if you can not find a diaghram at a reasonable price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-master-cylinder-lever-94-97-Honda-vfr750-vfr-750-95-96-vfr750f-/400444942068?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3c60e6f4&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VFR800-VFR-Complete-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Reservoir-Lever-1997-/350564351750?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item519f437f06

Fred

[fj316]

Arnie:
Yes, the resources on this site, among the thread you linked has educated me on the subject. But even though I've learned that the part number are roughly "model/type"-"part description"-"other"-"parameters" I have yet to see a picture of the two parts that differ from each other. That may be due to a syndrome of "stock gasket picture" and as soon as I can prove myself wrong I'll be back in this thread bowing my head in shame on that account. I just can't shrug the hope I have in the meantime. I will definitely be referencing the Conlon guide as I progress in the restoring and modifying the rest of the bike so thanks for that headsup.

I might eventually look at going to a 14mm bore master just for that lighter squeeze too, are there any guides or threads to look out for here or would it be considered an "average" part swap operation? In all my mod and repair I am using service manuals for my bike model.


Fred:
Thanks for the links, am I right to assume that the VFR m/c are 14mm and that most of the 750/800 95 and up masters will fit?

In conclusion and during writing this post I've gone from wanting to keep the original parts to heading out to my local boneyard to see what I can aquire. I'll give the original gasket inquiry a bit more time while I check local availability and prices of a master replacement.

[FJ111200]

Just a thought on this rubber diaphragm/gasket effort.

When bleeding the clutch or brakes i don't put the diaphragm in place and bleed up as normal, and the thing that i've noticed is that the clutch and brakes still work.
So if they work without the diaphragm why don't we just cut a piece of rubber inner tube to fit over the reservoir and bolt down the cap over it? If there's a problem fitting the cut inner tube, why not put a larger piece in place, bolt down the cap, and cut off the excess.
Seems like a load of mither just to get an original diaphragm.

[rktmanfj]

Just a thought on this rubber diaphragm/gasket effort.

When bleeding the clutch or brakes i don't put the diaphragm in place and bleed up as normal, and the thing that i've noticed is that the clutch and brakes still work.
So if they work without the diaphragm why don't we just cut a piece of rubber inner tube to fit over the reservoir and bolt down the cap over it? If there's a problem fitting the cut inner tube, why not put a larger piece in place, bolt down the cap, and cut off the excess.
Seems like a load of mither just to get an original diaphragm.

As the pads wear the volume of the fluid in the reservoir drops.  The diaphragm is accordioned to take up that area.

IMO, the makeshift diaphragm idea would be ill-advised.

Think about it... it's your BRAKES!

Do you REALLY want to compromise them for saving a few bucks?