News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

rebuilding stock carbs...

Started by brentjgordon, October 22, 2012, 09:02:32 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

brentjgordon

is there any trick to pulling out floatbowl pins??? they seem real tight and i dont want to roach my first set of bike carbs in  15 years!!!! thanks alot to anyone that may help or laugh at me... :hi: :hi:
brent j gordon ~ el presidente' :-D

fj11.5

soak them in wd40 or something ,, use a hole punch or something with a good point, when you tap them out, hold a hammer or block of wood on the opposite side your hitting , so you don't snap the mounting post off
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

racerrad8

Quote from: brentjgordon on October 22, 2012, 09:02:32 PM
is there any trick to pulling out floatbowl pins??? they seem real tight and i dont want to roach my first set of bike carbs in  15 years!!!!

I use an automatic center punch. Once they move the first 1-2mm they should slide right out. There is a shoulder just at the head to keep the pins seated.

Here are a couple of topics I found by a quick search;

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4733.0
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1914.15

Yes, be careful or you will break the stand off.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

FJmonkey

Quote from: brentjgordon on October 22, 2012, 09:02:32 PM
is there any trick to pulling out floatbowl pins??? they seem real tight and i dont want to roach my first set of bike carbs in  15 years!!!! thanks alot to anyone that may help or laugh at me... :hi: :hi:
Now its time for a proper introduction.... And welcome to the Kookaloo zone, that is once you figure out your carb issues...

The un-official new post moderator... AKA Red Power Ranger.... Monkey... Er... or major pain in the ass....  :greeting:
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

brentjgordon

sweet thats all i need im gettin out the punch and hammer!!! thank you guys greatly appreciated....the im puttin together an ultrasonic tank!!! that cbx dude is a hog, great link!!!! thx thx thx and thx :biggrin:
brent j gordon ~ el presidente' :-D

ribbert

Quote from: brentjgordon on October 22, 2012, 09:02:32 PM
is there any trick to pulling out floatbowl pins??? they seem real tight and i dont want to roach my first set of bike carbs in  15 years!!!! thanks alot to anyone that may help or laugh at me... :hi: :hi:

A drift and a SMALL ( tiny hammer or somethig similar as long as it's steel) hammer. This delivers the shock to loosen the pin without the force to damage the posts.
Anything pointy will want to spread the head of the pin.
Noel 
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

zz28zz

I broke a post off on my Yamaha generator carb using the hammer/drift technique not too long ago.  :mad:
I've used that method for years and never had a problem. Maybe it was just weak?!?

With that recent incident in the back of my mind, I went a different route with my FJ carbs. I had a very small flat-blade screwdriver (actually it's a ground down version of a slightly bigger screwdriver) in my tool box. I was able to fit it under the head of the pin and by twisting the screwdriver was able to pry the pins loose. I think the pin only wedges on the one side (the side with the head). The way I see it, this technique takes the stress of pin removal off the base of the post.
I've had the floats out a few times in the last few weeks and so far so good.
Current: 84 FJ-1100, 84 IT-490
Prev: 77 RM-125, 72 Kaw H-1, 82 Seca 750, 84 RZ-350
Gotta love those 2-strokes!!

ribbert

Quote from: zz28zz on October 23, 2012, 01:48:20 AM
I broke a post off on my Yamaha generator carb using the hammer/drift technique not too long ago.  :mad:
I've used that method for years and never had a problem. Maybe it was just weak?!?

With that recent incident in the back of my mind, I went a different route with my FJ carbs. I had a very small flat-blade screwdriver (actually it's a ground down version of a slightly bigger screwdriver) in my tool box. I was able to fit it under the head of the pin and by twisting the screwdriver was able to pry the pins loose. I think the pin only wedges on the one side (the side with the head). The way I see it, this technique takes the stress of pin removal off the base of the post.
I've had the floats out a few times in the last few weeks and so far so good.

If you use a very light hammer, I use a 3 ounce for that kind of work, and give repeated sharp light taps, the post would have to have been about ready to fall off by itself to break.
It's the shock that loosens it not the force.
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

jscgdunn

92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

tmkaos

Quote from: zz28zz on October 23, 2012, 01:48:20 AM
I had a very small flat-blade screwdriver (actually it's a ground down version of a slightly bigger screwdriver) in my tool box. I was able to fit it under the head of the pin and by twisting the screwdriver was able to pry the pins loose. I think the pin only wedges on the one side (the side with the head). The way I see it, this technique takes the stress of pin removal off the base of the post.
I've had the floats out a few times in the last few weeks and so far so good.

I hear you, sounds good.

This is what I tried, with equal success

I used a small pair of side cutters (for cutting electrical wires, cable ties, and that wire next to the one you wanted to cut because you weren't paying enough attention) and just placed the jaws gently behind the head of the pin. The chamfer on the jaws helped pull the pin out slightly, then I was able to lever it gently out. If you keep the force low and easy, like  zz28zz said, you are not loading up the base of the post. I found I could apply enough pressure to twist the pin as well without marking or damaging it as well whilst doing all this, combine the twist and some leverage and the pin backs itself off the taper nicely.

Good luck,

James
'92 FJ1200 - '07 to present
'83 VF750S Sabre - '04 - '07
'87 VT250FG - '94 - '98