What to do?

[Effjay]

OK, so here's the deal.. I have an '85 FJ1100 with the famous second gear issue. Since so many of you it seems to have
dealt with this issue I've decided to ask what to do.

So what should I do? I've read that 88+ gear boxes parts work, or I've heard of undercutting the gear.. Where in BC or Canada
knows how to do this. I've talked to some machine shops and they have no idea what I'm asking them to do, and it says they
make sprockets and gears on the website.. Oh and I went to the RPM website where I can buy the parts.

Also I want to know what else should be changed or done while I have this bike apart or upgrades that should be done. I hate
doing things twice. I'm going to take the carbs out too, get them all cleaned and then rebuilt. What should I do there? Any
upgrades available? So I'll change the plugs too, oil change, what about fork seals.

I'm pretty well looking for someone to tell me my best route thru this little project. I have a mechanic doing while I help him but
due to the bike and my wanting to learn I thought it best to ask people who own the bike and have the advice on parts.

Finally I'd like to thank the fellow who responded to my add and sending me the link to this site! If there are any FJ owners in the
Nanaimo area who wanna ride or can help or even wants to take on this project let me know!

Thanks!

[andyb]

(All off the top of my head so I'm undoubtedly forgetting things, others will chime in I'm sure!)

To exclusively fix the problem will require an undercut gearset (get first done while you're at it, along with second, obviously).  You'll also need the more modern shift forks.

While you're in there?  That's a question of how much effort you want to expend, and the cost.

Top end rebuild time?  New valve seals, piston rings, cam chain and chain guides.  Get a valve job done too.  

Bottom end stuff?  Starter chain and guide, various seals, gaskets, main and rod bearings.

All that will bring you back to basically new stock condition.  If you want to start adding some power, and there's no better time, then the wallet gets some serious abuse.  New cylinder liners, oversized pistons, cams, porting....  You could gain 30% more power probably without a lot of trouble, but it ain't free by any means.

To futureproof yourself, you could go with stronger rods (either XJR bits or aftermarket forgings), and undercut all of the gears for peace of mind.

I will warn you that if you do even a fairly mild rebuild and go after the top end at all, odds are you'll gain some power and the clutch will end up being a limiting factor, so plan on adding a second spring at the very least, as well as the clutch pack itself if it's got some miles on it.

To just fix the trans isn't impossible nor horribly expensive, but it's a huge amount of work.  If you can't do that work yourself, you'll be paying someone to do it, and that will cost.  Depends really on what you want to do with the machine, and what your expectations are.

[FeralJuggernaut]

First up, welcome to the site!  

Your intro says this is your first bike.  Please Please Please be very respectful with the right wrist.  I don't think I would recommend an FJ for a 'beginners' kind of bike.  It can be done, but there is a certain about maturity that will be required to maintain a long term relationship.   Safety-crat satisified.  

If you break it down into systems and specific questions, we are better at homing in on the solutions.  At your mileage,  I would go through the carbs.   If you are mechanically capable and reasonably tooled up, find the Dr Raforth carb clean document and order up the carb screw kit from RPM.  Study the instructions for a few days until you are comfortable with it...   oh, RPM Randy is at the FJ rallies this week and next so you'll have to be patient on parts and advice from him.   And it will be worth the wait!

I'd consider a valve check and making sure there are no small oil leaks.  Old rubber bits and heat cycles are sure to leave you some spots that could be weeping.   It is also a good time to get familiar with the ol'gal.   Get your hands on a Haynes, Clymer and/or a factory service manual if you really intend to keep and do most/all of your own work.   I've heard of a CD/electronic copy of of the factory manual.  Worthy if you like to print out the section you are working on, ie forks, and not worry about it getting greasy and soiling up your original manual.

Do a flush and fill on all fluids:  forks, front brake, rear brake, clutch, motor oil, clean and lube chain

How 'bad' is the 2nd gear issue so far?   Can you get around town and it doesn't jump out of gear until you really get into the power or does it happen all the time on the slightest of inclines with a tad of acceleration?   I ask so you can plan time-wise.   Here is my theory...  you can change out tranny bits with the motor in the frame.   Most who have done it that way will tell you if they have to do it again, they'll just drop the whole motor and do it on a bench for the ergonomics of it.  If you are going to drop the motor, plan on it being off the road for a bit.  Murphy is a JERK!   It will need to be taken care of, the question is when.

Watch out for a disease called Moditus.  There isn't a cure, only temporary relief and it is directly proportional to disposable income.

If your bike is full on stock;  here my list of ideas in no particular order:
braided brake lines
disable anti-dive and put in good springs and cartridge emulators into the forks.
rear shock replacement
17" rims front and back.  This can be a big project, so research and decide its worth to you.  Many swear by it and it opens the world of tire selection dramatically.
Look at your charging system, make sure it is in spec.   once it goes out, it will usually cook batteries.
Plan on changing out clutch slave about every other year, think of it as regular maintenance, like oil, tires, chains, batteries.

There is more, but too much type and overload you anyway.  We're here for you, just ask away!   Keep us up to date on the progress.  

Safety Fast!