Oil leaks

[ribbert]

Having twigged why my previously dry engine suddenly started weeping, leaking oil from a number of places around the base gasket, I took the timing cover off and sure enough, oil! That would explain the slippery gear lever and boot. I started with a clean bike and by the time I noticed it at about 600k's (the one ride) there was noticeable oil down both sides of the bike.
Having not delved into that part of my motor, can someone tell me if the LH crankshaft seal can be replaced in-situ?
Thanks
Noel

[FJmonkey]

Having twigged why my previously dry engine suddenly started weeping, leaking oil from a number of places around the base gasket, I took the timing cover off and sure enough, oil! That would explain the slippery gear lever and boot. I started with a clean bike and by the time I noticed it at about 600k's (the one ride) there was noticeable oil down both sides of the bike.
Having not delved into that part of my motor, can someone tell me if the LH crankshaft seal can be replaced in-situ?
Thanks
Noel

Randy has informed me that you can replace the counter shaft seal (LH crankshaft) without the oil pissing out. Buy a new one from Randy or other convenient supplier and swap it out.  Find some PVC pipe that closely matches the new seal diameter to drive the new one in.

[hein]

Morning Noel.

  I'm going to assume you are indeed talking about the crankshaft seal l/s and not the tranny c/s seal. If this seal is the problem there is both good news and bad news.

   The good news is that the seal is available and cheap and that ends the good news.

   The bad news is that the seal is locked into a receiver groove in the upper and lower crankcase halves which means splitting the cases and lifting the crankshaft out in order to replace it. Do not attempt to remove this seal and drive another one in without splitting the cases.

   Before doing this I would make absolutely sure that this is the problem. Try using a petroleum specific fluorescent dye,one oz.should do it, in your oil. After cleaning all the current oil of the bike add the dye and bring the engine up to operating temp. Run it untill it leaks and the dye will clearly show you where the oil is coming from.

Hein.

[racerrad8]

   The bad news is that the seal is locked into a receiver groove in the upper and lower crankcase halves which means splitting the cases and lifting the crankshaft out in order to replace it. Do not attempt to remove this seal and drive another one in without splitting the cases.

Hein.

Why...?

I have done probably close to 50 over the years without any problem. They can be difficult to get out as the lip is hard as a rock, but as long as care is taken not to scratch the inner & outer seals surfaces, the new seal will go right in without any problem.

If there is something involved I am unaware of please let me know, I am always interested in learning.

Randy - RPM

[hein]

Thanks Randy.

   I have learned something today. I've only done this once some years ago and wished I had this bit of info back then. It would have saved me a lot of work.

Hein.

[andyb]

Can you do both crankshaft end seals like this, or just the one?

[axiom-r]

My counter shaft seal has been a "weeper" for as long as I have had my bike.  I have replaced it 3 times without splitting the cases and finally realized the oil is seeping from between the case halves and not from the seal....  bummer.  So to fix my issue the cases must be split and resealed.

Also wanted to point out that the counter shaft seal is not the crankshaft seal....  can they both be replaced without splitting the cases?

TR

[racerrad8]

Can you do both crankshaft end seals like this, or just the one?

The right side is much easier...The is no crankshaft in the middle to worry about. Poke a hole in the center use a big screw driver, catch the internal steel portion and pry it out.

Randy - RPM