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Started list of replaceable parts

Started by Skivvy, January 31, 2012, 10:18:41 PM

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Skivvy

Going to try and remove the aluminum frame parts and try buffing with scotchbrite wheel. Is this major to remove?

Parts short list (still available from Yamaha)

Speedo cover
Front fender 1
Front fender 2
Windscreen (aftermarket only?)
Right side Mirror

Pat Conlon

The aluminum side frames: one side is easy, the other side you have to remove the swing arm pivot thru bolt.
Put the bike on the center stand and put a block under the back tire to support the weight of the swing arm and tire assembly and push thru the pivot bolt with a long socket extension or long drift punch.

If you have the time why not just take the back wheel off, disconnect the lower shock mount and remove the swing arm so you can clean and lubricate the swing arm bearings and relay arm/linkage bearings? No big deal.

Be careful with a motorized buffing wheel (drill motor) with aluminum, if you press too hard or put uneven pressure, you will get ripples in the aluminum surfaces. Light even pressure is key. I polish by hand. I get better results that way.

Use some paint stripper on the aluminum to remove the old clear coat. It is much easier that way, than trying to buff off the clear coat.

Cheers!
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

FJmonkey

Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 31, 2012, 11:02:52 PM
The aluminum side frames: one side is easy, the other side you have to remove the swing arm pivot thru bolt.
Put the bike on the center stand and put a block under the back tire to support the weight of the swing arm and tire assembly and push thru the pivot bolt with a long socket extension or long drift punch.

If you have the time why not just take the back wheel off, disconnect the lower shock mount and remove the swing arm so you can clean and lubricate the swing arm bearings and relay arm/linkage bearings? No big deal.

Be careful with a motorized buffing wheel (drill motor) with aluminum, if you press too hard or put uneven pressure, you will get ripples in the aluminum surfaces. Light even pressure is key. I polish by hand. I get better results that way.

Use some paint stripper on the aluminum to remove the old clear coat. It is much easier that way, than trying to buff off the clear coat.

Cheers!
Trust Pats words on this, his bike will blind anyone within 100 feet of his bike in clear skies when the sun is out. I will bet money that he polishes while he is riding, maybe not in the corners but during some of the longer stretches when he can divide his time between looking forward and staying shiny.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Dads_FJ

Careful it's a trap.  Starts innocently enough, "just remove your swing-arm to lube it".  Then it's "might as well polish it since it's removed, or better yet fit one from a Thunder-Ace - polished of course".  Next thing you know you're pawning stolen goods to satisfy your fix of Mothers polish, (which Pat is a distributer of I'm sure).
John S.

'84 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'94 Yamaha WR250
'80 BMW R100S/Sidecar
'39 BSA WM20

1tinindian

Quote from: Dads_FJ on February 01, 2012, 09:45:24 AM
 Mothers polish, (which Pat is a distributer of I'm sure).

No, Simichrome is where its at, not that damned Chip Foose spuzz !

Leon
"I want to be free to ride my machine without being hassled by the "man"!
91 FJ1200

Pat Conlon

Sssssh guys, don't spook him, he's new.......Let's creep up on him slowly...........
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Dads_FJ

Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 31, 2012, 11:02:52 PM
The aluminum side frames: one side is easy, the other side you have to remove the swing arm pivot thru bolt.
Put the bike on the center stand and put a block under the back tire to support the weight of the swing arm and tire assembly and push thru the pivot bolt with a long socket extension or long drift punch.

If you have the time why not just take the back wheel off, disconnect the lower shock mount and remove the swing arm so you can clean and lubricate the swing arm bearings and relay arm/linkage bearings? No big deal.

Be careful with a motorized buffing wheel (drill motor) with aluminum, if you press too hard or put uneven pressure, you will get ripples in the aluminum surfaces. Light even pressure is key. I polish by hand. I get better results that way.

Use some paint stripper on the aluminum to remove the old clear coat. It is much easier that way, than trying to buff off the clear coat.

Cheers!

Anyone ever fit a grease fitting aka zerk on the swingarm?  I did a search and didn't see anything regarding this.
John S.

'84 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'94 Yamaha WR250
'80 BMW R100S/Sidecar
'39 BSA WM20