Engine seized???

[scharding]

I just bought an 86 FJ1200 that has been sitting in a heated shop for 10 years. It hasn't been run or moved in that time and has only 30,858kms on the motor. What is the chance that it may be seized?? i haven't had a chance to try and start it yet, been working on the new gas tank for it.

I am open to guesses and speculation!!

Thanks!

Steve

[Travis398]

I would guess no

[Pat Conlon]

Murphy was a optimist, therefore I would guess yes.  Don't take a chance on breaking a frozen ring by using the starter.

Remove the left side ignition cover. Pull the tank, remove the plugs and spray a shot of PB Blaster or other penetrating oil in the cylinders. Not too much.
Let it sit for a couple of hours. Now with a ratchet on the rotor nut, rotate the crank by hand to loosen any stuck rings.
Clean out the tank and fuel lines. Remove and clean the carbs (see the Carb Files)
Re-install everything except the tank. Hook up a external tank to feed the carbs. (you still need access to the carbs and plugs)

After this, change the oil and filter.  With a new battery fire her up. You may need a squirt of starter spray down the carb throats.

Get her running. Warm her up....not too long as you will over heat the engine. With a vacuum stick or Morgan Carb Tune, check and balance the carbs.
 Shut her off. Remove the plugs and with a warm engine check the compression. Make sure you have the throttle wide open.
If compression is low, let the engine cool off overnight and the next day with a stone cold engine check the valve clearances.

If you get some smoke on startup don't freak out, chances are it just a dry valve seal or two. Many of us has found that just by riding the bike, it will clear up any dry seals that may occur. It may take awhile but it will happen.  

Cheers, hope this helps.....Pat

[srutherford]

I second pats motions. And you will like it when it runs 

[Brook]

...... Steve, I hope you do not mind me asking.

Pat, are you saying, that the motor should be stone cold before adjusting the valves??
I am on my way tomorrow, to have a mechanic, to do just that. and he is about a hour away.

[Pat Conlon]

Pat, are you saying, that the motor should be stone cold before adjusting the valves??

Yeppers, no residual heat in the engine at all....that is what I've been taught...and also what the factory manual says....

[Brook]

...... thanks

[scharding]

Thanks Pat!! I will give that a try and let you know how it turns out.

Brook....not a problem, we both learned something!

Cheers,

Steve

[scharding]

GREAT SUCCESS!!!!   I sprayed some WD40 in each cylinder and let it sit for 2 days. When I went back today, removed the side cover and manually spun the motor with my ratchet, it didn't even have to break free, it just spun with normal compression resistance!

Thanks for your help Pat!!  I have now sent the carbs out to be cleaned and will hopefully have the motor running next weekend!!

Cheers,

Steve

[Pat Conlon]

Good deal Steve.
You know, as you wait for the carbs, it's a good time to do quick check on your valve clearances to make sure you don't have any tight ones.
<edit> That way, when you start the bike and warm her up for your compression test, you can rule out tight valves.

[scharding]

Will do!! Thanks again Pat!!

[scharding]

Finally!!!! After getting through the holidays, getting my rebuilt carbs back, checking valve clearance and actually getting time to re-install the carbs ......IT'S ALIVE and sings beautifully!!!

Thanks again Pat and every one else who gave advise, now for riding weather.......I only have 3 moths to wait

Steve

[Pat Conlon]

Good job Steve. She will sing her Kookaloo song this spring!

Don't forget to replace those dry hard 10+ year old tires with a fresh set and do a complete flush with fresh juice on the brake/clutch systems.


Cheers!