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front brake rotors

Started by motorn, December 22, 2011, 05:28:20 PM

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motorn

I tried searching this but couldn't come up with the info.
Does anyone know the torque spec for the front rotor mounting bolts in ft/lbs?
I'm doing some winter maintaince some I'm ready in the spring.Thanks

Pat Conlon

Haynes Chapter 6 page 6-2: 14ft/lbs or 20Nm
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

ribbert

Quote from: motorn on December 22, 2011, 05:28:20 PM
I tried searching this but couldn't come up with the info.
Does anyone know the torque spec for the front rotor mounting bolts in ft/lbs?
I'm doing some winter maintaince some I'm ready in the spring.Thanks
Don't forget some anti-seize on the threads (as you should also do on your spark plugs) always a good idea when metal bolts go into alloy, saves dragging out the thread with the bolt, or worse, breaking the bolt off a couple of years down the track.
Disclaimer: Previous feedback suggests I should point out this is my opinion and should not be taken as gospel.
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

racerrad8

Quote from: ribbert on December 22, 2011, 06:42:58 PM
Don't forget some anti-seize on the threads (as you should also do on your spark plugs) always a good idea when metal bolts go into alloy, saves dragging out the thread with the bolt, or worse, breaking the bolt off a couple of years down the track.
Disclaimer: Previous feedback suggests I should point out this is my opinion and should not be taken as gospel.

Disclaimer accepted...

But, you should never use anti-seize on spark plug. The operating temp at the spark plug is greater than the anti-seize can handle and the oil portion of it melts/burns away. This then leaves the metal powder component left in the threads to gall the when they are removed.

Spark plugs have a coating applied when they are new and are designed for use in alloy applications. Adding another compound usually creates other problem.

Randy - RPM

Randy - RPM

RichBaker

Quote from: ribbert on December 22, 2011, 06:42:58 PM
Quote from: motorn on December 22, 2011, 05:28:20 PM
I tried searching this but couldn't come up with the info.
Does anyone know the torque spec for the front rotor mounting bolts in ft/lbs?
I'm doing some winter maintaince some I'm ready in the spring.Thanks
Don't forget some anti-seize on the threads (as you should also do on your spark plugs) always a good idea when metal bolts go into alloy, saves dragging out the thread with the bolt, or worse, breaking the bolt off a couple of years down the track.
Disclaimer: Previous feedback suggests I should point out this is my opinion and should not be taken as gospel.

Blue Loctite is a better choice, those bolts are thread-locked from the factory...
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

RichBaker

Quote from: racerrad8 on December 22, 2011, 07:40:02 PM
Quote from: ribbert on December 22, 2011, 06:42:58 PM
Don't forget some anti-seize on the threads (as you should also do on your spark plugs) always a good idea when metal bolts go into alloy, saves dragging out the thread with the bolt, or worse, breaking the bolt off a couple of years down the track.
Disclaimer: Previous feedback suggests I should point out this is my opinion and should not be taken as gospel.

Disclaimer accepted...

But, you should never use anti-seize on spark plug. The operating temp at the spark plug is greater than the anti-seize can handle and the oil portion of it melts/burns away. This then leaves the metal powder component left in the threads to gall the when they are removed.

Spark plugs have a coating applied when they are new and are designed for use in alloy applications. Adding another compound usually creates other problem.



Randy - RPM



I have read that the coating is one-use only, meaning that the plugs should not be reinstalled, but instead replaced when removed, also....
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

motorn

Thanks for the quick reply's. I actually lock tight every bolt I remove and reinstall. I learned this from years of snowmobiling. 14 ft/lbs! Thanks for the info everyone  :good2:

SlowOldGuy

Quote from: racerrad8 on December 22, 2011, 07:40:02 PM
But, you should never use anti-seize on spark plug. The operating temp at the spark plug is greater than the anti-seize can handle and the oil portion of it melts/burns away. This then leaves the metal powder component left in the threads to gall the when they are removed.

I can confirm this (unfortunately).  I anti-siezed my plugs once.  I also check them whenever I have the tank off (so multiple installs which are also bad).  After a few months, the anti-sieze dried up and I pulled the threads out of 2 cylinders. 

TimeSerts are a wonderful invention!  I also installed new SS valves, springs, and stem seals.  No more smoking on startup.

NEVER use anti-sieze on spark plugs, even if is says it's "high temperature"

DavidR.