News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

WARNING!!!...NOOB QUESTION FOLLOWS.......

Started by ninjamuder, November 08, 2011, 10:49:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ninjamuder

ok, gonna sound like a water-head here, but i havent had much luck searching, ro googleing......

1985 1100....can someone give me a idea on the suspension adjusters front and rear.....spring pre-load is a no brainer, but im looking for the rebound settings/adjustments, and also the (soon to be a paperweight) anti-dive :bad:

i know it sounds simple....i just cant FREAKING FIND IT!! :ireful:
boscycleshop.com

HOOAH FT. CAMPBELL!!!!


ninjamuder

ok,....still wondering about the front tho.....are the knobs on the a/d units supposed to click??.....mine just spin, and will eventually un-screw completely!!
boscycleshop.com

HOOAH FT. CAMPBELL!!!!

weymouth399

Quote from: ninjamuder on November 10, 2011, 07:36:42 AM
ok,....still wondering about the front tho.....are the knobs on the a/d units supposed to click??.....mine just spin, and will eventually un-screw completely!!

The anti dive didn't work very well new. They deffinitly don't work now, thats why most change the lowers to 89 or later. Then you can do the17in ft wheel and brake upgrade while your at it.
Some take the anti dives off and use a block off plate.

Bob W
84 FJ 1100
86 FJ1200
89 FJ1200
5  FJ POWERED race cars
76 LB80 Chappy
93 KX500 ice for sale
00 KX500 ice/dirt
04 KDX220 dirt for sale
04 KX500 ice
08 KLX450 ice/road
72 CT90x2 for sale

Mark Olson

mine on the 86 just spun no click . now they sit in a box with other obsolete shit.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

SlowOldGuy

There are no clcks, the adjuster is just a screw drive compressing a spring.

The adjuster on the A/D preloads a spring that, in turn, presses on a kind of check valve with a tapered head.  The tapered head controls the flow of fork oil and is balanced by an opposing spring that is connected to a plunger on top of the A/D unit.  This plunger on top of the unit is activated by brakeline pressure.

When you squeeze the brake lever, the top plunger tries to press the tapered needle shut to reduce the flow of oil (the anti-dive effect).  The movement of the tapered needle toward its seat is opposed by the amount of preload that is applied to the spring trying to push the needle off it's seat (the spring controlled by the adjuster). 

(I hope I get the following directions right, they may be opposite as it's been a while since I studied the A/D unit)

When you turn the adjuster to the right, you're adding preload to the spring that tries to keep the taper off its seat thus reducing the A/D effect.  Turning the adjuster to the left reduces the preload on this spring and allows the brake line plunger to move the taper toward its seat, restricting oil flow and stiffening up the forks.

Very inefficient device.

DavidR.