Massively seized swingarm bolt

[Suskie]

I have an alloy swingarm off a 3CV model to fit to me 3XW ('93) as the original is fairly tatty and I'm wary of internal corrosion (You don't want one of these bad boys giving up the battle with the torque-monster, do you?)

My big problem is that the main bolt is as seized up as a massively seized up thing and won't budge!

Does anyone have a diagram of the swingarm assembly so I can figure out the way to remove it? I'm thinking that drilling the bolt at both ends, being VERY careful not to catch the frame is my only option... Any thoughts??

Thanks in advance 

[FJmonkey]

I have an alloy swingarm off a 3CV model to fit to me 3XW ('93) as the original is fairly tatty and I'm wary of internal corrosion (You don't want one of these bad boys giving up the battle with the torque-monster, do you?)

My big problem is that the main bolt is as seized up as a massively seized up thing and won't budge!

Does anyone have a diagram of the swingarm assembly so I can figure out the way to remove it? I'm thinking that drilling the bolt at both ends, being VERY careful not to catch the frame is my only option... Any thoughts??

Thanks in advance 

Any chance you can get an impact wrench? They work great on stuck nuts and bolts. The hammer effect brakes things loose.

[tmkaos]

As an add on to that, if you are carefull not to damage the thread or the bolt head, often tapping it with a hammer will do the same thing - the shock can crack the corrision/junk that is jamming the thread.. I'm assuming you've tried the CRC/WD40 on the thread for 24 hrs trick?

Another little trick is to apply heat or cold.. I'm not talking naked flame here that wouldnt be wise but maybe a heat gun or even hairdryer, different metals expand at different rates and it often helps again to crack open the junk as they expand/contract under heat or cold...

[axiom-r]

I use penetrating oil (Kroil) and on the tough ones I wait way more than 24 hours....  give it a week of repeated soakings.  Then get a breaker bar about 4-6 ft long.  I use a piece of 3 inch ID steel pipe that is about 4ft long. Slip it over the end of my ratchet and lean on it.  Never failed yet. Heat is good too. So are air tools.

The trick is to soak it and be patient.

[craigo]

Does anyone have a diagram of the swingarm assembly so I can figure out the way to remove it?
Thanks in advance 

Suskie,

Hope this will help,

CraigO

[Suskie]

Thanks for the replies and of course the diagram! It's good to see how it all goes together and what parts I need to source before I attack it...

I can get the nut off, it's the actual bolt that's rusted solid in the bushing. If you check out Shuggyboy's thread from a while ago... That's the bike I bought. It was seized up solid a year ago and ain't got any better! lol

Still thinking I'll need to drill both ends to free it out of the frame to be honest... I haven't got access to anything hotter than a hot-air gun and I think the heat will dissipate before doing any thermal malarkey to aforesaid bolt.

I have a week off work to take soon, so I'll save me pennies and watch Ebay...

Suskmeister 

[axiom-r]

I can get the nut off, it's the actual bolt that's rusted solid in the bushing.

Oh!  I see...  I would still do the penetrating oil soak.  Lean the bike way over to the right and remove the frame side brackets etc.. get it so the end of the swing arm pivot is exposed and start hitting it with the oil.  Drilling that bolt is going to be a difficult thing to do - its hardened steel and unless you are very careful and skilled I would think the frame is going to take some damage.  I would try to get the oil going for a long time and then set it up for hits with a mini sledge..  Good luck!

tim

[andyb]

For penetrating oil, mix acetone and ATF in a 50:50 ratio.  AFAIK that's the most effective anti-stuck-shit penetrant available.

That said, if the old arm is iffy, why not get the blue wrench out and make your life easier?  There's something satisfying about doing things that way.

[Suskie]

Okies, I guess it's time to take her off the road for a bit. I'll certainly try to leave her lying there soaking in summat for a day or two to see if that helps.

I take it the Blue Wrench is oxy acetylene? If I have to resort to that, the collateral damage may be scary! I'm trying to avoid a complete strip down but if it ends up being the only option then c'est la vie! At least I'll be able to put her back together nicely.

Suskmeister 

[axiom-r]

Correction for me- lean the bike way left, away from the side with the nut and threads and towards the bolt end.  Once you get the bolt end exposed you could effectively heat it with a small torch- just make sure the excess oil is cleaned up.  Also- I would soak it for a long time- a week or more if needed it will eventually work.  Tapping it daily with a hammer and re-applying penetrant.

[Suskie]

Well, it has to be worth a go and I've always wanted an excuse to buy a sledge 'ommer lol

I'll give the penetrant a good long time to work but the suspense is going to kill me!!

[axiom-r]

If you use a full size sledge be darn careful with the hits- use a block of wood!   Oh by the way, I have a complete rear end off my 92 FJ.  A swingarm with pivot and bushings, axle, spacers, brake carrier, etc....  if you find you need some replacements.

tim

[Suskie]

Thanks for the reminder, I must update me profile...

I'm in the UK so probably not that handy to post parts! lol