Access to Uni-filters for cleaning/oiling, can you do it with tank on?

[Pat Conlon]

Hey folks,
You know how it goes....I'm getting ready for WCR next week and my '84 is leaking gas out of #3 carb. Just started doing this on Sunday. Luckily I have on hand DavidR's kit so I installed new float needle O rings...  and still #3 leaks....shit. I know it's #3 'cause I color coded the hoses, per Lee's most excellent idea...
Time to r/r carbs (again) check float height, and look for any debris I missed...anyhoo..

I have done this carb r/r exercise many times over the 25 years of owning my '84 and I anticipate this exercise not going away, 'cause I'm going to keep this bike forever.

I have been running the stock air box, which as we know, makes this carb r/r exercise a bit more difficult, so..I am considering installing Uni Filters for ease of carb r/r.

What is important to me is ease of maintenance. With the oem air box, I only have to pop off the right side cover to get access to the filter....piece of cake.
Can I access the Uni's for r/r with my tank on?  The early FJ's have a fuel line routing which makes tank r/r difficult.

Sorry for the long story for such a short question...

paddy

[Marsh White]

Pat,

Have you ever just pivoted the gas tank around 90 degrees?  It will do that and stay on the bike, no need to touch the hoses or anything.  Take off the seat...I put a rag on my plastic tail piece.  Then while standing on the left side of the bike, pivot the tank clockwise 90 degrees...the front "C" mounts will go above and below the rear tail plastic.  The tank will sit there nicely with the oval bits on the rear of the tank going back into their respective rubber bits to secure it.  This is simple and would allow easy access to the Uni's.  Yeah, the airbox is a pain in the ass to take off and put back on.

Of course I've never done this on a 84, but it works on for sure on a 89 and 92.  So I'd guess it should work for you - even with the different tank.

Randy should have the Uni's in stock and be able to get them to you by this weekend:
http://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=69.0

Just ask him to use USPS Prioirty Mail and NOT FedEx Ground...you'd get them in 2 days via USPS Priority Mail.

[pdxfj]

Marsh,

That won't work with the early bikes as we're stuck with gravity fed fuel.  The fuel lines have to be run exactly as shown or you'll pinch the main line.  I think you can get away with moving them with Uni's on, but not with a stock air box.

I wish I could just turn my tank around like those of you who have fuel pumps.  Would make things a lot easier.

Pat:  I haven't tried to service my uni's with the tank on.  Yes it's a pain to take the tank off, but the trade off of not having to deal with the air box is worth the effort.

Hmmm.. Remove the tank, then get pissed at the air box.  OR..  Remove tank, loosen carbs, remove carbs.  Clean carbs, put carbs back, tighten carbs, put filters on, put tank on.. done..

Get Uni's.. you won't regret it.   

[Marsh White]

Ah, I didn't think about the fuel pump being the reason why I can do that....my bad!   

[Pat Conlon]

 Thanks Marsh and Garth, yeppers, fliping the tank is a no go....

That Lee Carkenord fellow is a sharp dude....

Hey Pat........before ya remove the carb bank........which is a total pain......
I have experienced exactly what you seem to be experiencing.  Drippy carb
_AFTER_  a partial or total rebuild.  Here's what's worked for me numerous
times.....

Put a hose on the drain nipple of #3.......so ya can drain gas into a safe
container while  engine is running.  Put the petcock in PRIME position......so
gas can freely flow into carbs.  Start the engine.  Open the drain valve on #3.
Gas should just freely flow, with no cessation.  Let 'er flow, all the while
zapping the throttle.  Visualize, with the #3 drain OPEN, the float in #3 is
gonna drop down, and yer gonna get max opening around the needle.  Max gas
flow.....rpm's are varying........usually the offending piece of debris will be
dislodged, a combo of vibration and gas flow.

Remember..vary the rpm's widely.....so that you hit the right harmonic vibe to
shake the clog loose.

Hope it works for you as well as it has for me.  Hell.....I did it once in the
rain, in the dark, on a Sunday nite in Tulsa Oklahoma.  Yes......it was also in
a scary part of town, doncha know!!

          Lee Carkenord  84 FJ1100  Denver CO

[LA Mike]

Pat,

If Randy can't get the Uni's to by the weekend let me know as I have new pair setting in my garage with your name on it. It would take a day to get to you, LA to the desert.

Michael

[Harvy]

Pat, the short answer is no.......unless you have very small hands.

The hose clamps (4 of them) need access. I find the easiest way (on my '91) is
to take the seat off, and the 2 side panels. Then unbolt the 2 10mm bolts for
the tank, and spin the tank thru 180 degrees and sit it on a rag placed where
the seat usually resides. That way you don't need to disconnect the fuel line or
the electrical connector.

If you do decide to go with Uni dual pods........don't over tighten the hose
clamps......it will just squeeze the pods off the carbs......just over finger
tight is all you need for them to stay on there.


Harvy

[racerman_27410]

yes the uni filters can be serviced with the tank in place..... however the rear mounting bolts must be removed and a suitable prop rod  fabricated to hold up the rear end of the tank.


i would also recommend wiping the inside of the filters mounting area with some acetone to remove any oils and make the rubber tacky..... this will keep them from popping off when tightening the clamps.


KOokaloo!

Frank

[Harvy]

Good idea Frank....never thought of that, but then again, if I'm in there doing the filters, I'm also replacing the spark plugs.......I do air filters, oil filter, oil and plugs as near to every 5000km as I can get.

Kookaloo to you

Harvy

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Frank, that's good news. With the route of the short fuel line I won't be able to raise the tank much.
How high do you think I would need?

yes the uni filters can be serviced with the tank in place..... however the rear mounting bolts must be removed and a suitable prop rod  fabricated to hold up the rear end of the tank.


i would also recommend wiping the inside of the filters mounting area with some acetone to remove any oils and make the rubber tacky..... this will keep them from popping off when tightening the clamps.


KOokaloo!

Frank

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Michael, thanks amigo, that's a fine offer, but I suspect you have your hands full.

  I think I'll just piss and moan and struggle with my carb r/r and oem airbox for now.
It pales in comparison with what you're going through... How are you doing? 
Everyone here at work is saying that I'm nuts to be dealing with this issue right before a 3k mile week long ride.....

I shut them up by showing them your picture: http://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=470.0

A fucking Classic...

We 'ain't going thru this shit again when we go to Tellico are we?   Right Marsh?   No way.

Pat,

If Randy can't get the Uni's to by the weekend let me know as I have new pair setting in my garage with your name on it. It would take a day to get to you, LA to the desert.

Michael

[FeralJuggernaut]

only to serve as proof that Lee has forgotten more than I'll ever know:

Lee suggested if you keep the airbox to shoot some silicon on the fuel lines to make them very slippery so they squeeze nicely back into the crack from which they came.  The only other tip/trick I use, when it comes time to putting the tank back on, I put a 2ball can of raquette balls under the rearmost part the tank so there is just enough space to slip a paw in there and route the fuel hose and attach the vacuum petcock line.  (running a Dyna, so no tubing going that way)  also, don't forget to pickup the 'in line' filter for the breather tube between the crank case and the original airbox.   

'84 - The Original FJ         

[racerman_27410]

Thanks Frank, that's good news. With the route of the short fuel line I won't be able to raise the tank much.
How high do you think I would need?

just a couple of inches.... just high enough to get a 5/16" socket or a shorty screwdriver on the hose clamps

[Pat Conlon]

Ok, thanks Frank.

Thanks Frank, that's good news. With the route of the short fuel line I won't be able to raise the tank much.
How high do you think I would need?

just a couple of inches.... just high enough to get a 5/16" socket or a shorty screwdriver on the hose clamps

[LA Mike]

Pat,

I'm done with that puppy I just have get it back to AZ to my brother; splitting the case is not has hard as you might think it just looks that way.

Anyway if change your mind let me know.


Michael