Changing fork oil - YZF 600 forks

[Marsh White]

Hey guys.  I have a set of 1999-2000 YZF 600 cartridge forks on my 89 FJ.  They are seriously due for an oil change.  All the seals and bushings are fine (they were all replaced a couple of years ago).  They do have Race-Tech Gold Valves and Progressive Springs FYI.  I do know that last time they were rebuilt by this guy: http://www.ppsracing.com/  they put in US-1 (5 weight oil).

Anyhow, I am very proficient in the old FJ forks, but I have NEVER had a set of cartridge forks open.  Is it fairly easy to change the oil on these forks?  Would I need any special fork tools? (shaft holding tool, cartridge tube holding tool, etc)

I just called Stig Pettersson (the guy in the link above) and he wants $189.00 to do it.  Damn!  Seems kinda pricey to me if I can do it myself...can I?  Advice?  Instructions?

[the fan]

Marsh. Its not that much harder than doing the FJ forks. I just did mine on my 96 without disturbing the oil seal.  if you are using hand tools to loosen the base bolt, you can use a 24" piece of aluminum square stock as a tool to hold the cartridge in place. The only part that requires attention to detail is resetting the stop nut and threading the cartridge rod into the fork cap. I have the service manual for all year YZF600 models, and have serviced dozens of forks. I can PM you my number and walk you through the job, or you can box em up and send the forks to me here in KY and I will do the job for you.

Useful information:
1)you will want to use a good 5wt fork oil made for cartridge forks. I use Repsol.
2)set the oil height at 118mm (124 is stock) for improved damping under hard braking.
3)the stopnut on the damper rod should be set with 12mm of thread showing above the nut. make sure that the rebound screw is fully out when screwing the cap to the rod. Once assembled run the screw in to its seat and count the clicks out until it tops out. There should be 12 clicks from seat to stop. If there is more or less than 12 adjust the location of the stop nut on the damping rod.

[Marsh White]

Well, this morning I changed the oil on my YZF600 forks.  I just got back from a 20 mile test ride and all I can say is WOW!!  What a difference!     There is hardly ANY dive now on HARD braking!  Smooth as silk.

Thanks Bill for your helpful tips and the scan of the service manual pages...I couldn't have done it without you!

BTW: the lock nut was set previously at 9mm not 12mm of thread showing...I fixed that and also put in your recommended 118mm from top oil level.  Dang the oil and sludge in there was NASTY!   

A caliper (thanks Pat - I think of you every time I use it), crescent wrench, 17mm and 14mm open end wrench were all that was needed to work on the forks.  (minus the tools needed to take the forks off of the bike of course)

Oh, and I found out they have Race-Tech straight rate springs in them; not progressive springs...cool!

[the fan]

Told ya it was easy...

[Marsh White]

Yes it was...because of you...thanks again!

...you should see my fingernails though...