clutch bleed

[srutherford]

Well now im onto clutch bleeding I am starting from no fluid in the master.  Jaust was woundering if there were any tricks to get fluid started in the lines I have fought it all day and its killn me lol thanx

[Klavdy]

Are you posting from a phone?

Try getting a big ass syringe,




Some plastic tubing to fit



and squirt fluid from the clutch slave UP to the master cylinder on the handlebars.

LOOK UP "REVERSE CLUTCH BLEEDING"

LOOK HERE

Make sure you have covered all painted surfaces where the brake fluid could possibly splash onto it and have a bucket of clean water to flush away any if you do fuck it up.
There's not that much to it, take your time, read through the instructions and have all the tools and stuff you need ready BEFORE you start.

[rktmanfj]

Somehow, I expected a bit more from his 666th post...       

Randy T
Indy

[FJmonkey]

Somehow, I expected a bit more from his 666th post...       
Randy T
Indy

He is 666 all the time, why bother with silly crap like that?

[SkyFive]

I bled my clutch from a dry master and slave. After a little research here at FJowners.com, I first let it gravity bleed, then I closed the bleeder and I just tapped the clutch lever for what seemed like an hour with the cap off so I could watch for those micrscopic air bubbles rising to the surface of the fluid. It was a slow tedious process.

[chapindad]

Just latch the clutch lever and let it set for an hour and it will do all the hard work.  Or buy a bleeder kit from your local tool place and do it in minutes.  I never thought I would use a bleeder kit much but I use it all the time now that I have it.  It was well worth the $30 for it.

[andyb]

If you're starting with a totally dry system, take the top banjo bolt out and fill the line down to the caliper.  Be careful, bad on paint, easy to spill, etc.  That'll shorten things a lot.

Then, fill the master with fluid, and just pull the lever back a half inch or so.  What you're watching for is the little ports in the bottom to have the piston go past, as that's the only portion that really matters when you're bleeding--you're not trying to do the work at the other end, just moving more fluid into the system at a slight pressure, wait a moment for the bubbles to rise within the line, then release, repeat.

When you pull the lever in, watch the holes in the bottom of the master.  Once the piston has gone by, the lower portion becomes a closed system--no where for air nor fluid to go.  That's why it works when it's full of fluid only; functionally, fluid doesn't compress, so it transmits the energy at the lever to energy at the bottom.  When you're bleeding, you want to ride the line between an open system and a closed one, you're just opening that little valve (the master's piston) and closing it again, moving fluid down.  Do it too fast, and you'll just move the fluid back and forth, with little time for the bubbles to rise. 

If you sit and really think about how it works and what you're doing, the clutch and brakes are a very easy thing to bleed.  Get in a hurry or don't think about what's happening inside the system, and you'll be frustrated and pissy by the time you're done.

[ddlewis]

Especially if it's totally dry I think the Klavdy reverse bleed way is the ticket.  If you are having a hard time finding a big syringe, you can use one of those turkey marinade injectors from lowes/home depot.

[chapindad]

If you sit and really think about how it works and what you're doing, the clutch and brakes are a very easy thing to bleed.  Get in a hurry or don't think about what's happening inside the system, and you'll be frustrated and pissy by the time you're done.

That's what my last girlfriend said.