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Progressive springs etc

Started by richardphillips6208, January 13, 2011, 02:46:38 AM

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richardphillips6208

G'day all,

I'm slowly collecting "bits" to get my '88 Fj1200 back to better than new condition.
At the moment I'm just doing general maintainance to keep it running until I do a full overhaul.

I do need to replace the fork seals though and thought that while I am about it I should replace the OEM springs with progressives.
I also need two new rotors and new brake pads.

Could anyone tell me where I can source progressive springs, rotors and what brake pads are best to use with the four pot calipers?

I also need to replace the jets and modify the airbox to get it running a little smoother. Any ideas?

Last of all (I promise!....sort of) The gearbox seems to be fairly whiny but not all the time.  Could this be that it doesn't like the oil? A more serious problem waiting to cause me grief?  It's not hugely loud, high or annoying at present, but if it isn't just me being overly anxious I'd rather be proactive and fix it before it goeth Bang!

Warm regards (West Aussie is dry and hot at present. Thinking of all you guys out in QLD! Hang in there)

Richard

Harvy

Quote from: richardphillips6208 on January 13, 2011, 02:46:38 AM
G'day all,

I'm slowly collecting "bits" to get my '88 Fj1200 back to better than new condition.
At the moment I'm just doing general maintainance to keep it running until I do a full overhaul.

I do need to replace the fork seals though and thought that while I am about it I should replace the OEM springs with progressives.
I also need two new rotors and new brake pads.

Could anyone tell me where I can source progressive springs, rotors and what brake pads are best to use with the four pot calipers?

I also need to replace the jets and modify the airbox to get it running a little smoother. Any ideas?

Last of all (I promise!....sort of) The gearbox seems to be fairly whiny but not all the time.  Could this be that it doesn't like the oil? A more serious problem waiting to cause me grief?  It's not hugely loud, high or annoying at present, but if it isn't just me being overly anxious I'd rather be proactive and fix it before it goeth Bang!

Warm regards (West Aussie is dry and hot at present. Thinking of all you guys out in QLD! Hang in there)

Richard

Richard.......go with straight rate springs....just my opinion I guess, but I believe they give a better ride.....and if you have the funds, get the Racetech emulators too.
I have a modified airbox here if you don't want to hack into yours.......its yours for the postage.
Genuine fork seals are a must..... I doubt anyone will disagree with me on that.
Which 4 pot calipers are you using.....once again, genuine pads will suffice here if you are using R1/FZ1/R6 blue spots (not genuine FJ pads, pads that are OEM for the actual calipers).
I have used OEM, DJ and FP jets. At present I have a mixture of OEM jets with FP needles and emulsion tubes. The FJ is pretty good as far as jets are concerned, just so long as you have a combination that works.
OEM rotors are expensive! A few folks have bought from Asian eBayers with good results. My last set of rotors came from Sandy Motorcycles in the UK.....Kagizumi rotors....they are still in use on Island Bums FJ.......good rotors, cheaper then OEM, more expensive than the Asian units.
Please describe the whine.......you may just find that its not a problem at all, but what an FJ always sounds like? Is it just in top gear or of variable pitch in lower gears?

Cheers
Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

Travis398

Quote from: richardphillips6208 on January 13, 2011, 02:46:38 AM
G'day all,
I do need to replace the fork seals though and thought that while I am about it I should replace the OEM springs with progressives.
Richard

As Harvy suggested, the popular mod seems to be changing the stock progressive springs with straight rate springs


When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

richardphillips6208

Awesome guys.

Lots to think about.
I have fork seals here waiting.
Are the springs already straight rate? I don't mind the ride as is, except it's a little soft since the seals started leaking, and I don't ride hard now I'm a gettin old n gettin married.
Cost is not an issue, or won't be once married an the houses are sold etc. Bronwyn cuts sick on birthdays (mine's November) and she wants to buy me whatever I want. Her main concerns about the bike are, in order: That I enjoy it, that I'm safe. Marvellous woman.
I'll set up a long post with what I want to do front to back and invite comments. The rebuild will be after the honeymoon in France in July.
Until then I really just need it to...like...stop! Oh, and go around corners without it throwing me off.
That's the front end so I'll do that now. Except for the wider rim, no big funds until after the wedding.

Thanks for the offer Harvy, I'll PM you about that.

Don't know what I'd do without this group. You guys are worth you weight in platinum.

Richard

Travis398

when you get your forks apart post a pic of the springs, we will be able to tell you if they are straight or progressive.


When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Pat Conlon

Mact nichts, regardless if the oem are progressive springs, or not, they are too soft. Some straight rate .90 or .95 or 1.0kg/mm springs will do wonders.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1983.0
Back in the '86, I installed progressive wound springs on my '84. http://www.progressivesuspension.com/forksprings/index.html
That was the hot ticket back then, prior the Race Tech introducing the cartridge emulators for our damper rod forks. I have to say that the progressives were better than the oem springs, but not better than the straight rate springs I added in the '90's. With the progressive springs, upon hard braking, the initial fork dive was still present, until the springs compressed to the tighter wound sections. With 1.0kg/mm straight rate springs the fork dive was much less.
HTH
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

weymouth399

Straight rate springs are the way to go, With or w/o emulaters.
Bob W
84 FJ 1100
86 FJ1200
89 FJ1200
5  FJ POWERED race cars
76 LB80 Chappy
93 KX500 ice for sale
00 KX500 ice/dirt
04 KDX220 dirt for sale
04 KX500 ice
08 KLX450 ice/road
72 CT90x2 for sale

DailyDriver

Won't straight rate springs give a little harsher ride?

I went with the progressive rate springs myself. I believe this was a good compromise between a smooth ride and firm handling since the emulators were out of my budget.

I think riding style is also a factor. I can always dial up the preload if I want to get a little aggressive in the corners. JMHO   
Only a motorcyclist knows why a dog sticks its head out the window of a moving car.

Marsh White

Quote from: DailyDriver on January 19, 2011, 11:38:58 AM
Won't straight rate springs give a little harsher ride?

Short answer: no.  This has been well documented in the FJ community for over 10 years.  I'm not the suspension guru to go into detail - but straight rate springs are the way to go if you ever buy new springs.

racerman_27410

MArsh is correct,

the first job of the spring is to support the weight of the rider and the bike using minimal preload (15mm usually)


straight rate springs will give you a nice smooth ride as long as you get the rate best suited for the application (your weight and the weight of the FJ) and they will do it without having to crank up the preload.

anywhere from .95kg to 1.10kg is the range best suited for the FJ

progressive springs start out too soft and when you crank the preload up they get harsh (coil bind) without ever actually getting to the correct spring rate.

KOokaloo!

Frank