Clutch bleeding

[Dpaolillo]

I've been struggling to get the clutch bled on my 89 fj, I am getting a steady but very slow stream of fluid coming out of the bleed valve. Is this telltale that I need to do new seals in the slave?

[red]

I've been struggling to get the clutch bled on my 89 fj, I am getting a steady but very slow stream of fluid coming out of the bleed valve. Is this telltale that I need to do new seals in the slave?

Dpaolillo,

Not sure about what is happening there, but if the clutch works well when the job is done, call it good.  If you can hold the clutch disengaged with the lever for a minute or two, I'd say the seals are okay.  If the clutch gradually begins to re-engage after some time while holding the lever in, then yeah, seals are leaking somewhere.

As for the job itself, I recommend SpeedBleeders.com for their slick bleeder screws.  They will have what you need, and a nifty little catch bag to make the job better.  I like that catch bag.  SpeedBleeders will make the job an easy,  one-person process.  You have to fill a completely empty slave cylinder first (with a syringe or something) when using SpeedBleeders, but then they are good to have, for any hydraulics on the FJ.

There are also vacuum bleeder machines, which get good reviews, if all else fails.  I have not needed one, though.  They don't cost that much, for what they do.

[Dpaolillo]

I have a pretty slick bleeding setup, but the clutch won't disengage at all. Even with no air I cannot build up any pressure

[Old Rider]

Hi If not What Red suggested works, try to just place the bike on centerstand and  thighten the bleedscrew  turn frontwheel to the right and tie the clutchlever into the handlebar
an let it sit over night.Then all air in the system is out. The same method Works fine on the front brake too if lever  is spongy

[red]

I have a pretty slick bleeding setup, but the clutch won't disengage at all. Even with no air I cannot build up any pressure

Dpaolillo,

If the slave cylinder is empty, that would be one symptom. 
Can you fill the slave cylinder with a syringe and a skinny tube into the bleeder hole (with the bleeder screw removed)? 
After that, things may start acting normal there, or else the leak will become obvious.
Clean up any spilled or leaking hydraulic fluid with paper towels and isopropyl alcohol, to protect your paintwork.
Keep us posted.

[Dpaolillo]

I'll definitely try that it could help. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[Dpaolillo]

This dosent give me high hopes for the seals...

[Waiex191]

Looks familiar!
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.45

[Pat Conlon]

When you get the piston removed, look at aluminum bore, if it's pitted, new seals won't help, it's time to buy a new slave.
Light scuffs on the bore can be honed clean with a brake cylinder honing tool.

[racerrad8]

Time to buy a new one: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3A5EA-16381-00%3A36y-16381-00

Now is the time to get it. Yamaha has raised the price to over $175.00.

We have a few left. We are waiting on our next shipment. When that arrives in the next week or two, the price will be going up.

Randy - RPM

[Millietant]

I have a pretty slick bleeding setup, but the clutch won't disengage at all. Even with no air I cannot build up any pressure

I had that too problem even when using a vacuum bleeder.

The solution for me was "revverse bleeding" - using a small hand operated pump (mine is a Laser brand).
Take the top off the master cylinder
Connect the outlet pipe of the pump (pre-primed with fluid) to the clutch slave bleed nipple and crack the nipple open.
Pump fluid slowly and carefully into the the slave throughtthe bleed nipple.
Watch the master cylinder for bubbles and make sure it doesn't overflow (I usually remove some fluid first with my vacuum pump to create space).
Once bubbles have appeared, tighten the bleed nipple and check the lever for resistance/feel.

So far, every time I've had an issue with traditional bleeding, this has worked - I usually finish off with a final "normal" re-bleeding, just to be sure. 

[Motofun]

My experience is to first make sure the master is completely full, including the seal area.  I do this by slightly cracking open the banjo at the master and getting the flow going.  This is messy so rags and water to clean the area are a must.  Once the master is fully functioning just keep the reservoir full and use your standard process.