New Pipes

[Rad]

Hello, My name is Ray from Canada. I now have my second FJ 1200, a 1992 low K's on it but have a problem.
I found some used mufflers for this unit but I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the back bolt off the old one from the frame. I have soaked it with WD40 rust remover but it won't budge.
I will soak it again overnight and see what happens then I will heat it up.
If anyone has a better way please I would love your knowledge.
Thanks for your time,
RAY, AKA, RAD

[FJmonkey]

Use or borrow an electric drill with a Hammer feature. Like an impact air gun, it creates a shock/impact that brakes the corrosion loose.

[Rad]

Thanks for the info, I have one of those, and I will try this in the morning.

[Millietant]

You'd be better using a proper penetrating fluid than WD40 and as FJmonkey says, then use a decent impact gun (not a lightweight, low torque one)

[Urx]

As above wd40 is pretty hopeless at anything but water dispersal...better with plus gas or a.n.other dedicated release oil.
One ive heard of ( but not used ) is a mix of diesel and autotransfluid. Allegedly this 'panther piss' is a superlative release agent.
Shock and heat are also great.
Heat first with preferably an inductive heat tool or an oxyacetylene flame or similar for a good chance of breaking the grip that the rust has...

[ribbert]

As above wd40 is pretty hopeless at anything but water dispersal.......Shock and heat are also great.
Heat first with preferably an inductive heat tool or an oxyacetylene flame or similar for a good chance of breaking the grip that the rust has...

Great advice, you sound like someone who encounters this in their job!

I agree with your comments on WD40 (and similar products).

I found the following interesting, it' from an FJ maintenance website......


".....If location is an issue with oxy ( and no one has an inductive tool at home) a MIG or Arc can selectively put a lot of localised heat into a nut or bolt that will do the trick.

Avoid extension bars that introduce springyness between the bar /impact gun and the socket, same for long leverage bars. Increased leverage is a sure way to break something else that's connected to the bit you want loose but not intended for the torque of a 6ft bar.

If using an impact gun, weighted sockets, or weighted adapters, work well to increase torque.

Don't use a "near enough" imperial socket when you need the right size metric one.

Never butcher a nut, bolt or screw head in an attempt to remove it, if whatever you're doing isn't working, stop. Destroying the head just makes the job all that much harder.

Hammer drivers are the worst tool ever invented. I still have the one that came with my tool set in the late 60's, it still looks like new because it's only been used a couple of times,  I just like to remind myself every 20 or 30 years that they really are useless. Their effectiveness is limited to the increased diameter and better grip of the handle, aided by a tip that's generally in better condition than your everyday screw driver due to it's infrequent use.

Hammers, heat and levers is truly a black art and one of the old school mechanics skills that has all but disappeared, and for the most part, along with the need for it."

[T Legg]

The weighted sockets are new to me. Sounds like a great idea.
       After I've heated a difficult nut I'm trying to remove I dribble regular turbine oil or motor oil on the threads and it sucks the oil right in.

[Urx]

Yep concur with the post above...I usually use LM grease once its cooled sufficiently to be safe (still damn hot though)
Grease melts and wicks along the threads 8-)

I haven't had to do this on bikes...normally reserved for car suspension
UK uses salt during the winter on roads and this rusts the underside of cars and eats bikes whole

[Rad]

As above wd40 is pretty hopeless at anything but water dispersal.......Shock and heat are also great.
Heat first with preferably an inductive heat tool or an oxyacetylene flame or similar for a good chance of breaking the grip that the rust has...

Great advice, you sound like someone who encounters this in their job!

I agree with your comments on WD40 (and similar products).

I found the following interesting, it' from an FJ maintenance website......


".....If location is an issue with oxy ( and no one has an inductive tool at home) a MIG or Arc can selectively put a lot of localised heat into a nut or bolt that will do the trick.

Avoid extension bars that introduce springyness between the bar /impact gun and the socket, same for long leverage bars. Increased leverage is a sure way to break something else that's connected to the bit you want loose but not intended for the torque of a 6ft bar.

If using an impact gun, weighted sockets, or weighted adapters, work well to increase torque.

Don't use a "near enough" imperial socket when you need the right size metric one.

Never butcher a nut, bolt or screw head in an attempt to remove it, if whatever you're doing isn't working, stop. Destroying the head just makes the job all that much harder.

Hammer drivers are the worst tool ever invented. I still have the one that came with my tool set in the late 60's, it still looks like new because it's only been used a couple of times,  I just like to remind myself every 20 or 30 years that they really are useless. Their effectiveness is limited to the increased diameter and better grip of the handle, aided by a tip that's generally in better condition than your everyday screw driver due to it's infrequent use.

Hammers, heat and levers is truly a black art and one of the old school mechanics skills that has all but disappeared, and for the most part, along with the need for it."

I put some penetrating oil on it and heated it up and it loosed up really well, thanks for all the info, everyone. I love this site! Cheers from Vancouver Canada! RAD, AKA- Ray