Newbie wanting to know the must-do mods to my new FJ

[Millietant]

I want to thank everyone for their input. Since I last posted, I have -

*Removed the ABS, replaced all brake lines with braided, replaced the worn rear rotor, and replaced all brake pads with EBC HH.
*RPM rear shock
*Rebuilt the fork, replaced the springs, added an RPM damper, and fork brace.
*Repaired all stress cracks in the plastics. I simply used ABS plumbers solvent and it worked well.
*Added a GIVI mount for my trunk so I can simply switch it back and forth from my Super Tenere.
*New Pirelli Sport Demons
*RPM bar risers
*Lithium battery
*Everything greased and lubed

Left to do -

*Rebuild carbs
*Adjust valves
*Advance timing
*Seek out and destroy annoying plastic buzzes and rattles
*New rear wheel @ next tire change

I took my first spirited ride yesterday on one of my favorite Central Coast twisties, and it turns out this old man still has some knee draggin' left in him! Heck, I may even have a Buttonwillow track day left in me!

Thanks to all for the great input, and to RPM for the outstanding customer service.

I'm sure your FJ with those mods is capable of surprising many much younger bikes on a track day. Mine does so regularly on the road - there are a couple of GSXR 1000 riders we know who are not embarrassed to admit to this 

[ribbert]

... and replaced all brake pads with EBC HH.

Good stuff with all the work to date...  you've gotta be loving the changes.  One fine point for consideration...  the HH pads are excellent for the front, but if you use the rear brake much you might find them very hard to modulate on the rear, in my opinion at least.  I use the rear brake quite a bit, especially if I'm riding in a spirited fashion, and found that it was too easy to lock the rear when trail braking...  a little bumpiness, ramping up front brake pressure too quickly, etc. and I'd momentarily lock the rear on occasion.  Actually it only happened a couple times before I went to the organic rear pads and problem solved!  They are much more forgiving IMHO... 

As you ramp up your riding again, you might find the rear would be happier with organic pads...  or maybe not.  Lots of people use HH on the rear and don't complain.

Frank

Frank makes an excellent point, the standard rear brake is way too sensitive and made worse with HH pads and worse again with a braided line. I remember clearly the circumstances he describes such as bumpiness making it difficult to modulate with any fine control when riding hard.
Frank has offered one solution, mine was to opt for a smaller rotor and retain the rubber hose. The hose option is a good one (in conjunction with other options) because it softens the pedal.



I doubt much of this will bother you though unless you're riding fairly hard.

Noel

[Bill_Rockoff]

I'm sure your FJ with those mods is capable of surprising many much younger bikes on a track day. Mine does so regularly on the road - there are a couple of GSXR 1000 riders we know who are not embarrassed to admit to this 

Everyone who has ridden both finds it easier to go faster on my FJ1200 than on my 998.

My '89 FJ1200 has the factory 17x3 front wheel and Traxxion/RaceTech valves, springs, oil, and spacers in the front forks, with a YZF600R 17x5 rear wheel and a Penske shock in back. It rides like a magic carpet on rough roads, it's more taut and responsive on smooth roads, and with the rear ride height raised on the Penske and wearing modern sport-touring radials it flicks over pretty effortlessly on a corner entry, and you can tighten or broaden your line mid-corner.

I found a set of FJR or FZ1 calipers and a master cylinder assembly (I forget) for less than just FJ brake pads would have cost. It would have been worthwhile just for getting rid of the mushy factory FJ master cylinder, but with the better calipers and master cylinder it'll do everything it can do with two fingers on the lever - squall the front tire, lift the rear tire, or both at once. It's a delight.

[ribbert]

*Seek out and destroy annoying plastic buzzes and rattles

I can't believe no one's told you the best part of owning a late model FJ - the rubber mounted motor. Forget about chasing rattles and buzzes, just service the engine mounts (100% of them are seized) and enjoy one of the smoothest in line 4's you'll ever experience.

When you have them apart you'll notice a rebate around the centre of the bush, as if it were made for greasing. I installed these.....



......and once a year expel all the old grease with new, works a treat. The rebate allows the grease to flow right around the bush before pressure starts pushing it out the sides.

Noel

[Millietant]

I'm sure your FJ with those mods is capable of surprising many much younger bikes on a track day. Mine does so regularly on the road - there are a couple of GSXR 1000 riders we know who are not embarrassed to admit to this 

Everyone who has ridden both finds it easier to go faster on my FJ1200 than on my 998.

My '89 FJ1200 has the factory 17x3 front wheel and Traxxion/RaceTech valves, springs, oil, and spacers in the front forks, with a YZF600R 17x5 rear wheel and a Penske shock in back. It rides like a magic carpet on rough roads, it's more taut and responsive on smooth roads, and with the rear ride height raised on the Penske and wearing modern sport-touring radials it flicks over pretty effortlessly on a corner entry, and you can tighten or broaden your line mid-corner.

I found a set of FJR or FZ1 calipers and a master cylinder assembly (I forget) for less than just FJ brake pads would have cost. It would have been worthwhile just for getting rid of the mushy factory FJ master cylinder, but with the better calipers and master cylinder it'll do everything it can do with two fingers on the lever - squall the front tire, lift the rear tire, or both at once. It's a delight.

You couldn't be more right about the brakes Bill - I've got the added bonus of 320mm discs to add to the equation and with a YZF 600 rear wheel just like you, I like the smaller diameter rotor that comes with it 

[RPM - Robert]

*Seek out and destroy annoying plastic buzzes and rattles

I can't believe no one's told you the best part of owning a late model FJ - the rubber mounted motor. Forget about chasing rattles and buzzes, just service the engine mounts (100% of them are seized) and enjoy one of the smoothest in line 4's you'll ever experience.

When you have them apart you'll notice a rebate around the centre of the bush, as if it were made for greasing. I installed these.....



......and once a year expel all the old grease with new, works a treat. The rebate allows the grease to flow right around the bush before pressure starts pushing it out the sides.

Noel

+1 to the grease nipple on the later models.