Sticky clutch

[RPM - Robert]

Not saying you need to go back to 7, just stating I don't believe it is your particular problem.

I believe the wire is for assembly line, assembly. Even when using the stock setup I don't think you need it. Once everything is installed there is no where for everything to move, only towards the pressure plate or the clutch boss.

[red]

Hi again
Thanks for your thoughts Red. I had already checked the nipple in the lever, but had another look today to make sure I hadn't missed anything. Sure enough the nipple and the bush are in good condition.  Regards
Andy.

Andy,

As I said, you can add a tiny washer in the hole in the brass bushing, to make the clutch master cylinder push a little more fluid, and push the slave a little further.

I believe there is also a clutch spec in the manual someplace, giving the dimension for the entire clutch pack together, not just by single plates.  Since you got the clutch to disengage, though, I would expect that your clutch pack meets this spec.

As a side note, now you can get banjo bleeder bolts for the hydraulic lines at the handlebars.  RPM (and others) will have them.  They cost from US$20 each and up ('way up, at the wrong shops).  These bleeders make it easy to get air out of the vertical hoses.  Don't re-use the old hydraulic washers, when replacing banjo bolts.  Clean everything there, and use only new hydraulic washers.  HTH.

[racerrad8]

See this post from Zwartie a while back: Worn out clutch...lever

Randy - RPM

[millosman]

Hi everyone,

At last the Eureka moment arrived.

This problem has been cured completely with a new set of *OEM* friction plates.
So much for the compatibles I bought from Yambits, the only economy I made when buying parts for my engine rebuild 2 years ago. They've caused me a lot of grief ever since it went back on the road..... Lesson learnt!

Thanks for all your input folks!

Cheers

Andy

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