Need to split engine, help on suggested tasks and a few maint. questions (UK)

[DaveA]

Hello all,

The second gear issue is driving me nuts, it seems like it's time to get it sorted....well, when it starts raining!  In the mean time, i could do with getting all the bits i need, and planning other tasks, so some help is needed!

1)  Where can i get Dogs/forks for the second gear issue in the UK?  Also, if i need to, is there a company that can undercut the gear's?

2)  Is there anything else suggested to do whilst i've got the engine split?  Bearings?  I remember reading a post a while back about reducing engine vibration, and a certain way to tighten it back up, but i can't find it to save my life.

3)  Is there anywhere in the UK i can get the frame stripped and re-coated?  I'd say chromed etc, but as the last owner decided to hand paint it silver i have no idea what it should originally look like!

4)  Is there anywhere i can buy a new belly pan, or front mud guard, are these parts still available OEM?  Is there a good site in the UK for checking OEM parts?

5)  Any ideas on how to stiffen up the wing mirror so 70mph doesn't make it point to the floor?


One final note, although i'm reading everywhere about the infamous second gear issue, what i have happen is it pop back to neutral under heavy load, or if i shift from first to second at near top rpm in first.   I'm guessing this sounds about right?

My clutch also wasn't disengaging correctly, so i bled through the clutch, and now it almost feels a polar opposite, where only the last cm of the clutch release engages it, feels very ... fragile to say the least.  Don't know why bleeding would do this?  Any ideas?


Thanks in advance for the help!

[andyb]

1)  From a yamaha dealer.  You may want to ask Randy for specifics, but I believe he'll tell you to use the later model shift forks irrespective of what year FJ you have.  They're longer and stronger, less likely to bend.  Undercut gears in the UK, no idea.  Fast by Gast is extremely well liked by dragracers in the states though, so it may be worth buying a set of gears through them, getting them cut, and then shipped over the water.

2)  Main and rod bearings wouldn't be a bad idea, but it'll depend on who you ask.  Personally, I'd just measure and use them if they show little/no visible wear and are in spec.  Assuming you leave the head and cylinders in place, you can't really get to a whole lot else if memory serves.  If you're taking the motor utterly apart, then camchain and guides, starter chain and guide would be good additions to your replacement list, as well as rings if not pistons.  Of course then you'll have the head off and may as well get a valve job done and new valve seals and while you're at it you may as well overbore it and.....

The thread on vibration through motor mounts would be here, but this post will give you additional ideas of things to look at.

3)  A body shop should be capable of doing it.  I'd suggest powdercoat in either the original silver or some other color that suits your fancy.

4)  Depends a bit on the year for some of those bits.  As far as UK-specific, I couldn't tell ya.

5)  Locktite could be a start, though it depends a touch on which end is floppy (again depending on year).  The bottom end of the OEM mirrors can be tightened if I recall properly, you could arguably add material, peen things out a touch, or add a roll pin to lock the position.  Take one apart and see!

Popping out of second while under full load is the classic sign of worn shift dogs/windows and/or bent shift forks, yes.  Should be worst up near peak torque (7k or so), and made worse by having a passenger and going uphill.

Clutch is too sensitive to disengage?  There's a new one for an FJ ;P  Start by measuring the stack height when you take it apart, clean everything before you put it back together.  Lotsa miles on the thing?  This thread would be the best place to start reading.  Strikes me that it's possibly worn and/or the clutch slave isn't fully retracting, easily cured with a rebuild of the slave.  When you bled it, you removed any slop that it had from air (being quite compressible), and that will move the engagement point out away from the bar.  You may also consider going to adjustable levers via a master cylinder swap(s).

[mz_rider]

Dave,

Sorry to hear about your FJ woes. I can't answer all your questions but here's my input.

1 & 2 - My preference would be to look for a second hand gearbox or an entire engine. I think on later FJs the 2nd gear problem was fixed.

3 - For a tough and good looking finish on a frame consider powder coating.

4 - All FJ parts can be obtained from a Yamaha dealer, but price may be the problem. Join the FJOC - they sell pattern belly pans & mudguards as well a huge range of FJ parts & accessories. As a member you can get advice from Doc who runs the club and knows FJs inside out.

5 - When I had mirror problems (silvering went) I bough a cheap pattern pair. They were YZF600 items that fit '92+ models. Check out Wemoto for parts.

I don't understand your clutch problem but generally anything wrong with the clutch can be cured by replacing the slave cylinder seal. Check the oil filter cover for leaking fluid.

Ebay has an enormous amount of FJ parts in the UK (currently over 1,000 items) you should be able to get just about anything there. Some sellers specialise in FJs and break bikes regularly.

Stuart (Glasgow, Scotland)

[racerrad8]

As Andy stated as well, I don't not know where you are going to find the parts in the UK other than the dealer. If you are unable to obtain anything you are looking for, let me know. I can ship it to you via U.S. mail.

Randy - RPM