84 1100 complete end to end assembly video

[oldktmdude]

   Great job mate! Looks and sounds fantastic. You'll get a few miles on her if you want to ride up to the Rally with us. We'll probably take
3 or 4 days to get there via the usual back roads.
  Regards, Pete.  
PS. Don't forget to ask Simon about my A/F ratio readout with a rpm readout and about the slotted cam sprockets.  Thanks mate.   

[Troyskie]

Thanks mate.

Sign me on for the run to Bingara. I'll be leaving on the Sunday and just doing one overnighter on the way home, probably via East Gresford if we don't go that way on the way up.

I've put your dyno run note on the back of the jetting info for Simon so I don't forget  .

Troyskie

[Troyskie]

Dyno run-in and final tune complete.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdpF0-zaFUA

There were a few shenanigans due to my incompetence, but easy to overcome.

Final dyno HP is 108.5, torque 79.

Engine stock, but wiseco pistons at 1st oversize so slightly higher compression. RPM valves and springs (performance thingies).
Exhaust system near new stock.

Jetting as follows (airbox jobbie):
Main 112.5, main needle shim removed
Pilot 40
floats 22mm

Hard to see on the vid but a/f from 4-6k was rich, so on the next service I'll drop the needle to 110. I'll see how that goes. The shims might go back in.

Around town and kookaloo power, a/f is near perfect.

The last things to sort out are:
A little drip from the bottom bolt on the clutch cover. Could be gasket crud?
Fork seals leaking, but getting less. I'd never disassembled/reassembled forks before so I've clearly screwed something up. Forks have been renewed to new, but have emulators and stiffer springs. AD still connected, SS lines all round.
The starter motor shit itself. I assume the brushes are rooted.

Although this has been the longest FJ project I've done, its the shortest project thread.

Aside from the little niggles, project complete. Rego tomorrow, and daily ride once I can fix the starter motor.

Troyskie

[ribbert]

Dyno run-in and final tune complete.

Troyskie

That's excellent Troy, sounds great but you'll need another project now, what's next?   ( There's always the Cessna......) 





Noel

[RPM - Robert]

Troy,

If it is rich @4-6k I would leave the mains at 112. If the needles are grooved, I would move the needle up one more towards the blunt end, and put the shim in and try it there. That should lean it down a bit in the 4-6k range. Then again if it is real hot now there as it cools it may be just right where it is. If you have the stock single groove needles, other than machining a higher groove in them, I am not aware of a way to make those any more lean.

[racerrad8]

That richness could also be a sign of wear of the emulsions tubes.

Now, that's something to think about...

Randy - RPM

[Troyskie]

That richness could also be a sign of wear of the emulsions tubes.

Now, that's something to think about...

Randy - RPM

He he he, Randy, I seriously doubt Robert put old emulsion tubes in the new carbies that came with my other bits.
They looked shiny and new as the rest of the carbie bank.

Robert, They do have the plain needles, so removing the shims leaned it out a bit and gave me a few more horses and torque. As you suggest I'll leave the mains alone for now.

Overall, the richness is at the beginning of WOT, and ends before kookaloo, so around town, cruise speed on the highway, and at 'I can't keep up to Pete and Alf' speeds I'm right on the money. The 4-6k richness is not so far out it is an issue.
It doesn't seem to bog down when I hit it hard at 4k so I'm just burning some extra fuel.
For this bike I'm not chasing horsepower, just a nice reliable daily ride that is good for the next 30 years .

I'll fool with this 4-6k richness on first service.
My simple options are to fiddle with the airbox. I can try removing the schnorkle thingies from either side of the airbox to try an lean it out with more air.
I can also try leaving them as is and adding a hole or two (that can be plugged) in the before-filter side of the airbox.

After I get sick of the airbox I can re-jet for pods 

Noel, next project is ...... track bike! My other project is perfecting 180 autos at 40'. I had some excellent dry creek training at Camarillo with a Robo legend and have been doing some more locally. Interestingly doing the 180 at 40' or so makes it really easy to touch down zero zero. At 40' spin 180 and complete descent backwards. The 180 maneuver loses about 20' and I still have 20kts of speed through the disk to keep the main rpm in the green for the last 15-20'.  The main reason for this is if I have to put down in tiger country with no clear LZ (it would be an unavoidable crash after critical failure). The idea is if you have to go into trees, do it in reverse so the tailboom and engine hit before the cockpit.

[racerrad8]

Yeah, I found out this evening that you purchased a new set of carbies.

Unfortunately, my current work schedule is keeping me away from the shop a lot, so while I think I know what's going on...I really don't.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming...

Randy - RPM