Iron Butt Rally riders

[Dieselman7.3]

Thank you I will be locating a gsxr rear wheel for the winter tear down... looks very easy to do.
As far as tires go I don't like to cheap out when it comes to bike tires... I'm also not opposed to having to change them every year regardless of mileage out of a tire, I would go with the grippest tire I can find not just for cornering but even if I'm not expecting rain I tend to get caught in it. I also am hoping to get back to my old ways of riding any day it's of 32°f so I know cold rubber becomes harder and less grippy.  I know tires can be a touchy topic much like oil but I'm also open to suggestions and sizes. I currently running 170/70/16 and 130/70/16 and I like the combination

[Millietant]

Thank you. I know I need to change to 17s there isn't a whole lot out there for 16s.
What wheel is direct bolt on for the rear?  Planning on doing 89 forks and 17x3.5 front wheel this winter.

Click on the pdf file in the first post

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3380.0

The following link shows what years will work.


http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2465.0


Fred

I'm a fan of the GSXR swaps as well, but another alternative I found was the YZF 600 R Thundercat swap which for me was much easier and cheaper, as I could use my existing new FJ1200 rear sprocket (but reversed on the Cush Drive so you don't have to do any machining), rear brake caliper, brake pads, torque arm,  swing arm mounting, bolts, master cylinder etc and only needed a slightly longer brake hose (1"), which I was changing anyway as I was swapping to a newer braided steel line to match my new front lines. I used the 600's wheel assembly, with brake caliper mount and spacers. Taking 8mm off the caliper mount where it sits beside the swinging arm and machining the sprocket side wheel spacer a bit thinner (can't remember how much thinner (maybe 8 mm again, but check the files here for the exact amount), were the only other mods I needed to do and a local friendly machine shop did the work in about 20 mins and it cost me less than £20 all-in.

In total, the conversion cost me only £75 in terms of specific expense, as I needed a new tyre and chain/sprockets (both were totally worn when I took the bike off the road) and rear brake line anyway.

Best value-for-money mod I've made to my FJ 

[Dieselman7.3]

I'll look in to that as well I'm all about saving money. As far as machining goes my father owns a machine shop so that I won't cost me anything. (Me being a fabricator and my father being a machinist makes modding parts cost effective)

[FJ Flyer]

Holy smokes Mike!

Imagine 15k on a set of tires. On a FJ no less....Isn't technology wonderful?
I'm currently at 5k on my Pilot Road 5's and I have no clue when I'll need to replace them.

Do you guys remember when our rear tires would last only 3k? It doesn't seem like that long ago.

I used to get 20+K miles out of those old Dunlop K591 bias tires on my FJ.  Handled like a truck, but lasted for miles!  I reliably get 16K+ miles from the Michelin PR2/PR3s.  I've got a set of PR5s waiting to go on my FJR.  Have tried other brands but nothing will consistently last the miles as well as the Michelins.

[Tuned forks]

Thank you. I know I need to change to 17s there isn't a whole lot out there for 16s.
What wheel is direct bolt on for the rear?  Planning on doing 89 forks and 17x3.5 front wheel this winter.

Click on the pdf file in the first post

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3380.0

The following link shows what years will work.


http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2465.0


Fred

I'm a fan of the GSXR swaps as well, but another alternative I found was the YZF 600 R Thundercat swap which for me was much easier and cheaper, as I could use my existing new FJ1200 rear sprocket (but reversed on the Cush Drive so you don't have to do any machining), rear brake caliper, brake pads, torque arm,  swing arm mounting, bolts, master cylinder etc and only needed a slightly longer brake hose (1"), which I was changing anyway as I was swapping to a newer braided steel line to match my new front lines. I used the 600's wheel assembly, with brake caliper mount and spacers. Taking 8mm off the caliper mount where it sits beside the swinging arm and machining the sprocket side wheel spacer a bit thinner (can't remember how much thinner (maybe 8 mm again, but check the files here for the exact amount), were the only other mods I needed to do and a local friendly machine shop did the work in about 20 mins and it cost me less than £20 all-in.

In total, the conversion cost me only £75 in terms of specific expense, as I needed a new tyre and chain/sprockets (both were totally worn when I took the bike off the road) and rear brake line anyway.

Best value-for-money mod I've made to my FJ 

Dean, what year Thundercats would be suitable donors?  Is that an European model only?

Joe

[FJmonkey]

Joe, Thundercat was Euro name https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF600R

[Tuned forks]

Thanks Monkey.

Joe

[Millietant]

They're all suitable Joe, as there were no changes throughout the models life 

They were sold in the U.K. from around 1996 until 2004/2005 (although after about 1999/2000 the R6 was the more popular 600 in the Yamaha range) when Yamaha dropped the bike because it didn't meet the newest EU nouse regulations, but I think they were on sale in the USA for 2 or three years after that.