opinions needed

[chiz]

Howdy folks hope you all had a safe summer I finished mine off with a quintuple hart bypass so I am a bit sore and I cant ride or drive yet.
  Anyway my 1100 has had its valve clearances measured a few times I have come up with seven .004's and one .005 two of the .004's are a bit snuggish this is across all the intakes.
   Exhaust is a bit different with four .005's two .006's one .007 and a .004.... which of all the valves would you folks adjust?

   Also I find it extremely difficult to extract the shims although they turn freely on top of the bucket no amount of use of picks screwdrivers or magnets have worked I have even tried using WD40 to reduce the sticktion between bucket and shim to no avail.
  Any tips here would be most welcome
Thanking you in advance
Lez

[Tuned forks]

Lez, I just adjusted my valves within the last couple of weeks with the great advice of Robert Raduechel.  

So among your seven .004's and one .005", I assume they are all intakes.  All those .004's are too tight according to the specs I was given.  .005-.006" is correct.  With the kit I got from RPM, it's a bit difficult to make .001" changes.  You might need to buy some shims depending on which shims are already in there.

Exhaust side, the .005's, .006's and .004 are too tight.  .008-.009 was the spec I was given for the exhaust side.

As far as extraction, I too had a problem removing the shims.  Then Robert told me to rotate the shims until the notch is facing the side you will extract the shim from.  That made is much easier to remove.  Beware, as you rotate the engine to compress the springs, the shims will want to spin. I had to keep moving the notch back into position while rotating the engine/cams.  Also make sure the valve spring hold down tool isn't pressing on the shim.  It's really easy to catch the shim.  It's also really easy to not catch both springs and have one spring relax as you rotate the cams.  It's definitely not a job for when you're in a hurry.  I think I split it up into four sessions.

I will try to attach a pic of my clearance chart to give you some idea.  The blank chart is available from RPM if you ask nicely.  Robert emailed it to me and then I just printed out several copies.

Take is easy with your recovery bud. That was a huge bypass surgery!!  I'll bet you will feel so much better though once you are healed.

Joe

Oops, I see I attached my notepaper copy.  Here's the other one.

[T Legg]

Lez, I just adjusted my valves within the last couple of weeks with the great advice of Robert Raduechel.  

So among your seven .004's and one .005", I assume they are all intakes.  All those .004's are too tight according to the specs I was given.  .005-.006" is correct.  With the kit I got from RPM, it's a bit difficult to make .001" changes.  You might need to buy some shims depending on which shims are already in there.

Exhaust side, the .005's, .006's and .004 are too tight.  .008-.009 was the spec I was given for the exhaust side.                                                                                                                                                                 

I just  adjusted my valves and i used the values from the haynes book  .0043" to .0059" for intake and .0063" to .0079" for exhaust .Are those values wrong? I know you should go toward the loose side because the valves will get tighter over time.I tried for tight .005 for intake and a loose .007 for the exhaust

[CutterBill]

To get the shims out, rotate the bucket until you can see the notch, then aim a jet of compressed air right at the notch. Lifts the shim right out...
Bill

[chiz]

Awesome tips guys
Thank you
Lez