News:

         
Welcome to FJowners.com


It is the members who make this best place for FJ related content on the internet.

Main Menu

full disengagement

Started by iridewheelies, March 08, 2018, 05:10:35 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

roortcloud

Excuse me. I think I should have described the clutch housing as the inner most part of the assembly. :Facepalm:

racerrad8

Quote from: roortcloud on March 10, 2018, 12:20:56 AM
Excuse me. I think I should have described the clutch housing as the inner most part of the assembly. :Facepalm:

Ron,

Your issue was with the transmission bearing retainer that had come loose. That was allowing the complete input shaft and complete clutch assembly to move.That movement would not allow the clutch to properly release.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

racerrad8

Slow down, you are mixing up a bunch of issues now with carbs and jetting and shift kits...

Lets get one problem resolved before moving onto the next issue.

I just want to get this nailed down because it says you rode the bike...I think.

So, the clutch will not fully disengage and the bike dies when coming to a stop?

If the clutch is not fully disengaging the bike should die as soon as you drop it into gear.

But, if that was the case, the bike would be un-ridable unless a rolling start was an option.

Looking at the master cylinder you are using, you do need to check the brass pivot bushing for wear as well.


Randy - RPM


Randy - RPM

iridewheelies

Quote from: racerrad8 on March 10, 2018, 01:53:32 PM
Slow down, you are mixing up a bunch of issues now with carbs and jetting and shift kits...

Lets get one problem resolved before moving onto the next issue.

I just want to get this nailed down because it says you rode the bike...I think.

So, the clutch will not fully disengage and the bike dies when coming to a stop?

If the clutch is not fully disengaging the bike should die as soon as you drop it into gear.

But, if that was the case, the bike would be un-ridable unless a rolling start was an option.

Looking at the master cylinder you are using, you do need to check the brass pivot bushing for wear as well.


Randy - RPM



okay so the inner clutch hub does rotate when the clutch is pulled. i rode the bike from a semi rolling start. the outer hub does not move with clutch pulled. i checked the brass bushing and it didn't appear to be too worn. i can replace it and see if that makes the difference. there is good pressure at the lever. i am not worried about how the bike is running until i can get the clutch to work fully. anyone know where i can get the bushing for a vfr800 lever?

aviationfred

Not knowing what year master cylinder you have. Here is an example for a 2005 VFR800. They are used on a very large selection of Honda's covering 30 years.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/22885-MB0-006?ref=4255616ba8c0ec200b351d8b3ea9a0a45231918c

Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

iridewheelies

it is a model year 2000 m/c. i will be ordering a bushing, it isnt worn through yet but it could be a few mm shy of full disengagement

Pat Conlon

One Honda VFR800, year 2000 clutch master cylinder parts list/diagram coming up:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2000/vfr800fi-a-interceptor/clutch-master-cylinder

You may wish to bookmark this page in case you ever need a Honda seal kit to rebuild the VFR clutch m/c.

You're welcome.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3