APE Coil spring conversion kit instructions

[thuber3040]

I am guessing that is a bolt on once I get in there, but if someone has the actual instructions for the APE kit, I would appreciate a scan and email if you could, or email them to me please.

Thanks to all

[andyb]

You know, I don't think there were included instructions with it, but it's been awhile.

-Put the bike up on 2x4's and then on the sidestand (or the oil will leak a bit and it's a mess).  Alternately, drain the oil first.
-There's like 10 screws that hold the clutch side cover on (near your right foot if you're riding the bike).  Careful of the gasket between it and the cases, it's paper, it tears easy.  You may want to go ahead and order one now, if you haven't had the cover off in a few years.  The screws are not all the same length, so write down which holes get the longer ones.
-See fische below:
-You're going to be greeted by 6 little bolts retaining a ring (#16 x6 and #15 on the diagram).  Break them all loose, then pull them out.  You'll want to work in a crossways pattern, just like tightening lugs on your car wheels.
-Remove the retaining ring (#15), the diaphram spring (#14), the spring seat thingy (#13), and the pressure plate (#12).  The first three will basically fall out in your hands once the screws are out, the last one just pulls off.
-My memory isn't great, but there's a pusher (#27) that has a ball bearing behind it.  It may end up coming out on you at this point.  Don't lose the ball.  If you work with the bike on the sidestand, you've got gravity on your side to retain it though.

While you're in there at this point, if you want to pull and inspect the clutch fibers and steels for wear and such, now's the time.  If you do decide to pull them all and go looking/measuring, be careful of the super fine wire retainer for the last pair (#8).  Someplace Randy (RPM) stated that you're best pulling this out and shit-canning it, as they can break.  Yer call on that.  You can also replace a skinny fiber with a full sized one if you want more clamping area at this point.

Putting the coil setup in is easy. 

-The big blue aluminium piece goes in with the short pushrod (#27) behind it, where you found it.
-The springs go in with a bolt through them, and the washer between them.  Should be a half dozen springs/washers/bolts.  If you want to increase preload on them later, you can add washers or go to a thicker washer, but you'll need to measure for coil bind with the clutch fully actuated (clutch lever all the way in to the handlebar).  Unless you've got a shitload of power, you probably won't need to do this.
-Starting the bolts that retain the springs is a bit of a pain, and you're going to wish the bolts were longer.  Just use the ones supplied.  You'll have to push quite firmly to get them started, because the springs will have to be compressed a bit (preloaded) to get them started.  Torque them to spec (look it up... it's lower than you'd expect, though), and use a little blue locktite if you're the paranoid type.

Before you put the cover on, grab the cluch lever and play with it.  You'll see the entire pressure plate get pushed out, away from the clutch pack.  Doesn't move real far, but it doesn't need to move all that much.

The cover's gasket is designed to be hung off the dowel pins while you go find the bolts and the cover.  Makes it easier to put together.  Put the cover on, bolt it tight (to spec!), and go carefully check that the clutch works before you ride the thing.  Then go out and play with second gear clutch wheelies!

[thuber3040]

That sounds good, my ape piece is red though, lol

I was considering adding thin steel washers under the springs so they dont saw into the 6 alum cups, and my springs are gold colored, so I dont know if they are stock for this conversion either, and it came with the outside plate also, I will have to see how it goes. I have seen some people say keep the wire and some say dont, so I have to take a gander and see what I decide on that one.

Are the torque specs the same for the ape place bolts as the stockers?
Mine came with bolts also, got a decent price on fleabay for the whole thing, hope it works ok, seems in decent condition overall

[racerman_27410]

got a new release bearing or did the pressure plate come with one pre installed?

[rktmanfj]

got a new release bearing or did the pressure plate come with one pre installed?

I reused the OEM bearing in my Barnett plate several years ago.

Light torch heat to the stock plate, and it fell right out.

Randy T
indy

[thuber3040]

This one has a new bearing installed

[andyb]

Mine had the bearing installed when I got it.  Got it from APE but it was a Barnett unit, so it was blue!  I have to think the idea should hold though.

Don't think I'd worry about the steel spring vs the aluminum plate.  My ZX9's clutch doesn't have anything protecting the aluminum there either.  The springs won't rotate because they're preloaded, so it's just going to be pushing into the aluminum.  Maybe it'll be a problem someday, but a long, long time away.

My springs also were gold colored, and really long but not real stiff (that's what she said!).

The torque specs should be the same, the screws are threading into the same OEM piece as before.

[thuber3040]

My setup also is using alum washers under the bolts, should I replace them with steel ones, or it wont matter any??

[andyb]

I'd use em if they're straight