Oil warning light

[draku]

no ideas?

[Pat Conlon]

no ideas?

Ok, I'll try...

I discovered that the oil level sensor not working, so I replaced it with used one of Yamaha FZR250. It is identical in form and function.
I checked it before mount as the Haynes manual said and is ok (normal position - ohmmeter= infinite, upside-down position - ohmmeter= 0)

Question: What sensor are you talking about, the FJ sensor or the FZR250 sensor? Is the Haynes test criteria the same for both sensors? Did you check? Is one oil sensor a normally open sensor and the other a normally closed sensor? They can look the same but be opposite.

So, you mean in the sensor's "normal" position is where the sensor is installed in it's normal position the float should be floating in the oil?
IF so, then the bench test ohm reading should be "infinity", when the float is in it's highest position, correct?
Then the circuit in the sensor would be closed.
Then when the oil level is low, and the float lowers, the ohm reading should be "zero" correct?
Then the circuit in the sensor would open.
Therefore; Normal = Closed (oil light off) and Abnormal = Open (oil light on);  sounds like a "normally closed" sensor
Did you check to see if the float is actually floating? It's a used sensor after all.

Now you have this:

if I disconnect the wire under the oil filter, the oil warning lamp go off

Stop right there. That does not mesh with what you said above.
'You say: "the oil warning go off" do you mean that the oil light is "on" and until you disconnect the wire, then the light turns "off"? That does not make sense in a normally closed circuit.
The oil light should go "on" (abnormal condition) when you disconnect the wire, not go off as you described.
(light off= normal condition)

If you take the oil sensor's 2 wires and clip them together to close the circuit, what does the oil light do?
Go on or off?
When tied together, if the oil light goes off (normal condition): you need to have a normally closed sensor
When tied together, if the oil light goes on then you need to have a normally open sensor.

HTH

[RichBaker]

no ideas?

Ok, I'll try...

I discovered that the oil level sensor not working, so I replaced it with used one of Yamaha FZR250. It is identical in form and function.
I checked it before mount as the Haynes manual said and is ok (normal position - ohmmeter= infinite, upside-down position - ohmmeter= 0)

Question: What sensor are you talking about, the FJ sensor or the FZR250 sensor? Is the Haynes test criteria the same for both sensors? Did you check? Is one oil sensor a normally open sensor and the other a normally closed sensor? They can look the same but be opposite.

So, you mean in the sensor's "normal" position is where the sensor is installed in it's normal position the float should be floating in the oil?
IF so, then the bench test ohm reading should be "infinity", when the float is in it's highest position, correct?
Then the circuit in the sensor would be closed.
Then when the oil level is low, and the float lowers, the ohm reading should be "zero" correct?
Then the circuit in the sensor would open.
Therefore; Normal = Closed (oil light off) and Abnormal = Open (oil light on);  sounds like a "normally closed" sensor
Did you check to see if the float is actually floating? It's a used sensor after all.

Now you have this:

if I disconnect the wire under the oil filter, the oil warning lamp go off

Stop right there. That does not mesh with what you said above.
'You say: "the oil warning go off" do you mean that the oil light is "on" and until you disconnect the wire, then the light turns "off"? That does not make sense in a normally closed circuit.
The oil light should go "on" (abnormal condition) when you disconnect the wire, not go off as you described.
(light off= normal condition)

If you take the oil sensor's 2 wires and clip them together to close the circuit, what does the oil light do?
Go on or off?
When tied together, if the oil light goes off (normal condition): you need to have a normally closed sensor
When tied together, if the oil light goes on then you need to have a normally open sensor.

HTH

Got it backwards, Paddy.... open switch will give an "OL", or "OPEN" or infinite reading, closed will=0 ohms.... AFAIR, the switch closes the circuit to light the lamp.

[Pat Conlon]

Got it backwards, Paddy.... open switch will give an "OL", or "OPEN" or infinite reading, closed will=0 ohms.... AFAIR, the switch closes the circuit to light the lamp.

I knew it....I should have had my multi tester in front of me when I wrote that but hey, I had a 50/50 chance of nailing it......

That's exactly the reason I use a continuity light.... Simple: light on good.... light off bad.....,

So simple a Irishman could do it..

So Rich, the FJ oil level sensor is a normally open sensor? (closes under abnormal conditions; light comes on)
If so then when Draku opens the circuit (disconnects the wire) his light should go ON.
Unless: When he says his "oil warning lamp goes off" Does he mean that his light comes on?

I gotta go lay down now...

[racerman_27410]

the FJ oil level sensor is a normally open sensor? (closes under abnormal conditions; light comes on)
If so then when Draku opens the circuit (disconnects the wire) his light should go ON.
Unless: When he says his "oil warning lamp goes off" Does he mean that his light comes on?

I gotta go lay down now...

basically its a wet switch that makes a ground on the circuit when not covered in oil..



unplugging the switch will turn off the light because a light cannot burn without the ground.


Kookaloo!

[draku]

no ideas?

Ok, I'll try...

I discovered that the oil level sensor not working, so I replaced it with used one of Yamaha FZR250. It is identical in form and function.
I checked it before mount as the Haynes manual said and is ok (normal position - ohmmeter= infinite, upside-down position - ohmmeter= 0)

Question: What sensor are you talking about, the FJ sensor or the FZR250 sensor? Is the Haynes test criteria the same for both sensors? Did you check? Is one oil sensor a normally open sensor and the other a normally closed sensor? They can look the same but be opposite.

I am talking about the FZR sensor. I checked it and is ok, according to Haynes test. response was same as for a FJ sensor. so I assume they are identical.

So, you mean in the sensor's "normal" position is where the sensor is installed in it's normal position the float should be floating in the oil?
IF so, then the bench test ohm reading should be "infinity", when the float is in it's highest position, correct?
Then the circuit in the sensor would be closed.
Then when the oil level is low, and the float lowers, the ohm reading should be "zero" correct?
Then the circuit in the sensor would open.
Therefore; Normal = Closed (oil light off) and Abnormal = Open (oil light on);  sounds like a "normally closed" sensor
Did you check to see if the float is actually floating? It's a used sensor after all.

Haynes said: "take out the sensor and put in a normal position (on a bench, in hand, etc.) and the ohmmeter reading should be infinite". that mean flotor (it is a floating sensor) is down=>low oil level (or no oil).
turn it upside-down and the ohmmeter reading should be 0 (zero). that mean flotor is up=>normal oil level.
I checked it in my hand and the readings was like Haynes said...
I mounted on the oil pan and I put oil in the engine and I checked again with the ohmmeter. reading was 0 (zero). so i think flotor is up=>floating=>sensor ok

Now you have this:

if I disconnect the wire under the oil filter, the oil warning lamp go off

Stop right there. That does not mesh with what you said above.
'You say: "the oil warning go off" do you mean that the oil light is "on" and until you disconnect the wire, then the light turns "off"? That does not make sense in a normally closed circuit.

yes, you are right. thats why I am asking here...

The oil light should go "on" (abnormal condition) when you disconnect the wire, not go off as you described.
(light off= normal condition)

If you take the oil sensor's 2 wires and clip them together to close the circuit, what does the oil light do?
Go on or off?
When tied together, if the oil light goes off (normal condition): you need to have a normally closed sensor
When tied together, if the oil light goes on then you need to have a normally open sensor.

on the oil sensor its just one wire. so, if I connect on the "ground" (engine, chassy, etc.) oil warning lamp go on.
so, looks like I need a normally open sensor.

BUT...
somewhere in the electric circuit, wire from sensor going in a "relay assembly" (11 wires connector) and from this one to the light bulb....
I dont know if this one is ok or what's inside... maybe here change "normally close" to "normally open"

HTH

PS
sorry for "bold", I dont know yet how to use "quote" function

[racerrad8]

Haynes said: "take out the sensor and put in a normal position (on a bench, in hand, etc.) and the ohmmeter reading should be infinite". that mean floater (it is a floating sensor) is down=>low oil level (or no oil).
turn it upsetting and the ohmmeter reading should be 0 (zero). that mean floater is up=>normal oil level.
I checked it in my hand and the readings was like Haynes said...
I mounted on the oil pan and I put oil in the engine and I checked again with the ohmmeter. reading was 0 (zero). so i think floater is up=>floating=>sensor OK

Okay,
          I just checked three pans/sensors and they are all the same. The Haynes manual you quoted is incorrect for the FJ application. I do know Yamaha made sensors in the manner Haynes describes and they were installed in the late 90's early 00's FJ/XJ application.

So with pan in the , "no oil position", the ohmmeter reads continuity. With the pan in the "filled with oil" position the ohmmeter reads infinite.

The switch is just a float the makes a grounded contact with wire to the oil light circuit when the oil is removed from the pan.

If your light is on with the oil in the pan and goes off when you unplug it, it is the wrong sensor.

Randy - RPM

[draku]

I will try to open the old sensor, maybe I can see how it's working...

[draku]

problem solved
I repaired the original oil sensor.
I make a big hole with a drill bit in the resin from bottom part of the sensor. I removed the inside sensor ( which looks like this http://www.moviliftjad.ro/assets/files/Componente%20electrice/Informatii%20put/FIOLA%20REED%20TRADUCTOR.jpg ) and I replace it.
now it works ok
it is not that difficult to do
thank you for support

[desyboy]

Had a similar problem, near poohed my pants,when the light came on, immediate stop, checked oil level all ok!, restarted the bike, no rattly sounds as to low oil pressure, continued home.
A couple of days later, was checking the electrics and came upon a bullet connector which worn insulation on it and was occasionally making earth, repaired the inso, problem solved, hope this helped

[The General]

Hey Desyboy, Where ya bin. Sent ya a PM back in Oct (5th). How`s Eugowa?  Doug

[homerfj1100]

e author=Arnie link=topic=617.msg4584#msg4584 date=1248826883]
Steffen,

When you DO find out what the problem IS.... Please post for all the rest of us that also have aging bikes.

Cheers,
Arnie
[/quote]

I have exactly the same problem. Today I went out and its 80 degrees. Hard acceleration on an incline and it came on for a second. Went home. Go to garage I'm car. Bought some oil came back and the level is fine. Haven't used it for 9 months and it spits under acceleration and when I close the throttle. No idea why?? Tony

[red]

I have exactly the same problem. Today I went out and its 80 degrees. Hard acceleration on an incline and it came on for a second. Went home. Go to garage I'm car. Bought some oil came back and the level is fine. Haven't used it for 9 months and it spits under acceleration and when I close the throttle. No idea why?? Tony

Tony,

The oil light comes from the oil level sensor, which is just a little float, in the crankcase.  When you accelerate hard, or uphill, the oil drains back a bit, at least enough to make the oil light come on as the float  goes down.  It is not an oil pressure sensor, and the light does not mean that you lost the oil pressure, even for a second.  What you saw is just normal operation, with the FJ.  You can install an oil pressure sensor if you wish, but the FJ does not come with one, from the factory.

Nine months is long enough for ethanol/gas to start making problems.  Run a can of SeaFoam through the gas tank, according to the directions on the can.  That should do the job for you.

Cheers,
Red

[Fraser_g53]

It seems my oil warning light is coming on more often than it used to. It used to only come on during hard acceleration up a hill. I assumed that this was due to the location of the sensor in the front of the pan. Now it also seems to be coming on while idling on the slightest incline. The oil has less than 1000 miles on it and the looking glass shows near full when on level ground. The only major difference is that it is hotter now but only in the high 80's to mid 90's.

Thoughts?


My 1992 FJ1200 (90,000km) had same problem. Took off sump. there is an oil pressure release valve that sits in the sump held only with a rubber O ring. This was extremely loose. I suspect that oil pressure is lost via the O ring as its aluminium seating has got worn over the years. Wound wire under the O ring seating. Now fits in tight. That doesn't explain the light flashing so I put in a new oil level sensor. I am surprised these bikes don't have a warning for low pressure. Unusually, after this job, I did not have any nuts, bolts or washers left over.