In for the long haul. 88 FJ1200 restoration

[Tarsier79]

The unforseen circumstances of life. She is waiting patiently in the corner for her turn. Unfortunately nothing will be happening before January, as I need a cash injection from the sale of one of my other bikes first.

[Tarsier79]

Ok. So, I finally have some time, space and motivation. (The motivation is I really need to get her back on the road to explore some winding mountain roads!)

Step 1: Removing the engine: complete. In the process I found plenty of other small things I need to attend to before reassembly. This is going to cost a little more than I expected..... Oh well, it will be worth it.

[Tarsier79]

Managed to remove the clutch basket, with the help of the tool shown (saw it on the internet searching for the actual tool). I'm sure it isn't the best way to do things, but it's done. Just about to flip and split the engine, which I have never done before on anything, so it is a big learning curve for me.

Fingers crossed!

[Tarsier79]

OK, removed the lower half of the crank case, and I have the culprit. I am not sure how to remove the gears. I am guessing I have to remove the collar on the end with a bearing puller? Or should I just take like this to the experts?

I am still no good with the search on this site. Is it correct I should replace the shift fork with one from a xj1250?

Side note. I broke one of the bolts removing it. Not sure if I should try drilling it out... It is one of the thin long bolts at the rear RHS. I think it would probably survive without that particular bolt, but Im guessing the correct thing would be to fix it.

[Pat Conlon]

By the time you add in the cost of new gears and the machine work for back cutting the dogs, you will save money by getting get a gear cluster off the shelf, with all the work done (and no waiting):



Send in your old one and save a $150 core charge

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=UCT&cat=39

Replace all 3 shift forks (left, center, right) with the latest design also available at RPM
left

center

right


http://rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=shift%20fork

[simi_ed]

Been there, done that.  Don't fool around!  Do it all, do it once, do it right!  If you think this job is hard/expensive/time consuming, imagine doing it twice!  Get all the gears undercut, not just 2nd gear.  Change all the shift forks, not just one.

I fixed 2nd gear, only to promptly go out & torch 1st gear. Stupid plan on my part, learn from my mistake.  Or don't--your choice.


Ed

[racerrad8]

Side note. I broke one of the bolts removing it. Not sure if I should try drilling it out... It is one of the thin long bolts at the rear RHS. I think it would probably survive without that particular bolt, but Im guessing the correct thing would be to fix it.

Look at the case where the bolt head is. There is a number cast into the case for next to every bolt for the case. What bolt number is it?

Some of those bolts are part of the transmission oil galley.

Randy - RPM

[Tarsier79]

I will have to check that bolt.... I had a quick look and can't remember where exactly it was.

I spoke to "Solo Tooling", in Albion, Brisbane:
The gears cost around $60-$80 AU to get the dogs machined, so I am going down that path.  Most of the other dogs are already cut at an angle except the one at the other end of the shaft. The bloke at the local Yamaha dealership wasn't too helpful, and couldn't order the shift forks for an XJ1250. I noticed someone said that the forks were stronger on the later FJs, so I am ordering the ones from a '92 FJ1200.

In the meantime, how do I remove the sleeve off the end of the shaft to remove the gear to get it machined? Or is the answer to undo the nut off the other end and disassemble the whole assembly?

I put a bearing puller on the gear, and pulled it against the two washers sitting against the sleeve, but stopped before I broke something.