How many links?

[Tor-King]

I have a new drive chain that is needing to be riveted.  How many links are required?  How do you count the links (outer plates/inner plates)?
Thanks guys!
Dean

[Capn Ron]

I have a new drive chain that is needing to be riveted.  How many links are required?  How do you count the links (outer plates/inner plates)?
Thanks guys!
Dean

110 links for the standard setup...Assuming you haven't radically re-geared or stretched the back end with a longer swing arm.  110 links...That's 55 outer links and 55 inner links.

[Tor-King]

Thanks.  That is what I thought I had counted on my old chain.  Just making sure that it had not been cut by P.O.
Dean

[Earl Svorks]

  Tor-King,
  You may well know this already, but some folks do not,,, so.
Whatever chain you have in hand that you want to install, there's no need to count anything.
Loosen the axle,slacken the tensioners and push the wheel as far forward as it will go. grind the ends
off the two pins in any link plate you like. Open the link but leave one end of the chain attached. Hook the new chain on the open link so when you rotate the wheel, you pull the new chain through. . Once complete put both ends of chain onto the rear sprocket. At this time you can see if you need to remove any excess length using the same method  used to open the first link. There are tools available to crimp, or stake the plate onto the new link pins, but you can do a great job with simple common stuff. What's really important is to have some kind of anvil on the backside of the new master link. This can be a heavy bit of round stock, a bodyman's dolly or even just a hammer heavier than the one you use to drive the new plate over the pins. This can be a bit tricky but you need to get the new plate onto both pins until both pins are flush. Then. with a driver that will allow the pins to come through the holes (quarter inch drive 8 mil deep socket works great). With the anvil hard up to the backside of whatever pin you are on, use the driver and hammer to drive the plate over the pins.
When the plate is home over both pins, with your helper still holding the anvil, use a good sized centerpunch to spread or flare the pin ends that protrude past the plate. You can use a chisel to stake
them if you prefer.If you're using an 'O'ring chain, you'll probably find a little packet of grease with
the "O"rings. Use this to hold the rings in place when assembling the new master link
  At one time Yamaha sold new endless chains for the FJ. Expensive and labor intensive to install. I got 50,000 Kilometers out of my original chain. By that time Yamaha parts had only aftermarket chain
to sell.
   Cheers
   Simon

[FJmonkey]

If you have not already purchased your chain then heed this caution warning. Get a really strong chain!!! They don't call the FJ/XJ power plant a stump puller for some silly reason. We lost a perfectly good engine case on the last WCR when a chain let loose. It was good that that the rider was not flogged when the chain broke busting the case and puked oil out.

[Tor-King]

If you have not already purchased your chain then heed this caution warning. Get a really strong chain!!! They don't call the FJ/XJ power plant a stump puller for some silly reason. We lost a perfectly good engine case on the last WCR when a chain let loose. It was good that that the rider was not flogged when the chain broke busting the case and puked oil out.

That is one area I WOULD NEVER cheap out on.  I bought a D.I.D. ZVM-X chain.  It is considered one of the strongest, longest lasting chains available.  I also had it riveted; I did not want to "gamble" using the master link.

[FJmonkey]

If you have not already purchased your chain then heed this caution warning. Get a really strong chain!!! They don't call the FJ/XJ power plant a stump puller for some silly reason. We lost a perfectly good engine case on the last WCR when a chain let loose. It was good that that the rider was not flogged when the chain broke busting the case and puked oil out.

That is one area I WOULD NEVER cheap out on.  I bought a D.I.D. ZVM-X chain.  It is considered one of the strongest, longest lasting chains available.  I also had it riveted; I did not want to "gamble" using the master link.

Great! One more convert and one less casualty (Bike and rider). 110 links are the starting point for stock gearing.....

[ribbert]

 
.......When the plate is home over both pins, with your helper still holding the anvil, use a good sized centerpunch to spread or flare the pin ends that protrude past the plate.
   Cheers
   Simon

Simon, another trick that works better than the centre punch is to stick a ball bearing on the end of the pin with a bit a grease then belt it with a hammer. This gives a perfectly symmetrical flare and can be done without an assistant. The ball bearing from the rear footrest works well

Noel.

[Mike 86 in San Dimas]

So I bought a 18 / 40 gears from RPM (of course came incredibly quick). Will see what that's like for the next 10K miles are so. Then will decide if I like it over stock . I guess I'm getting old, MPG over torque. Sad. Now I need a chain. Will the stock 110 length be OK? Is there a way to determine size so to place my chain order. I am hope to buy chain that will not require busting and riveting but...Once I get my chain I'll lure FJ Monkey with a cheap beer to help me.  I can do this by myself, but why?

[racerrad8]

So I bought a 18 / 40 gears from RPM (of course came incredibly quick). Will see what that's like for the next 10K miles are so. Then will decide if I like it over stock . I guess I'm getting old, MPG over torque. Sad. Now I need a chain. Will the stock 110 length be OK? Is there a way to determine size so to place my chain order. I am hope to buy chain that will not require busting and riveting but...Once I get my chain I'll lure FJ Monkey with a cheap beer to help me.  I can do this by myself, but why?

Mike,

You need to shop it around, but here is the cheapest I found on a quick search: http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/D-I-D-530ZVM-X-NATURAL-X-110-530-ZVMX-Super-Street-p/tr122659.htm?gclid=CjwKEAiA1ITCBRDO-oLA-q_n8xYSJADjBQfGPugKOr9wXJf2ZCp9uC7b6yP991G-DH8aIlI3vSQJfRoC_KTw_wcB&Click=35177

Yes, you will need to have the master link riveted. You can get one of these and you can do it yourself...DID Chain Tool

Randy - RPM

[FJmonkey]

So I bought a 18 / 40 gears from RPM (of course came incredibly quick). Will see what that's like for the next 10K miles are so. Then will decide if I like it over stock . I guess I'm getting old, MPG over torque. Sad. Now I need a chain. Will the stock 110 length be OK? Is there a way to determine size so to place my chain order. I am hope to buy chain that will not require busting and riveting but...Once I get my chain I'll lure FJ Monkey with a cheap Good beer to help me.  I can do this by myself, but why?

I have the chain rivet tool so get a proper chain. I did after I discovered the clip was missing from my non-rivet chain.   Remember what happened to Steve when his chain let loose? So cost of rivet chain and tool vs. broken case???

But since you will be splurging on a good chain and good beer and using my tools and services, order a longer chain and we will custom fit it. It is only a few extra minutes during install.  

I have the EK-ZZZ chain and have never needed to adjust it. What that means is I burn through a rear tire about every 6K miles. Since I have to pull the wheel off, the chain is set again. But it does not need adjusting between tires. I have to start reminding myself to check the chain as it never seems to need adjustment. I have 20K miles on the chain now and it is still going strong.

[Mike 86 in San Dimas]

Thanks guys. So  I guess the 110 length is still OK, just be prepared to bust and rivet. Mark got tired of typing and called me. I have to do a beer up grade and get to his place where all the goodies are and well where he is. He is the best tool in the shed. He did say getting a longer chain is about the same price so since we will operate anyway, what the hell. That Chain Monkey (not Mark) looks pretty cool, especially for a shade tree mechanic like me.

[Mike 86 in San Dimas]

[/quote]
You need to shop it around, but here is the cheapest I found on a quick search: http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/D-I-D-530ZVM-X-NATURAL-X-110-530-ZVMX-Super-Street-p/tr122659.htm?gclid=CjwKEAiA1ITCBRDO-oLA-q_n8xYSJADjBQfGPugKOr9wXJf2ZCp9uC7b6yP991G-DH8aIlI3vSQJfRoC_KTw_wcB&Click=35177
Randy - RPM
[/quote]
That is a good price. It clearly says SUPER STREET X-RING CHAIN on top of page, but at bottom it describes application as off road? This must be typo.

[giantkiller]

Have 18/42 (42 Is the smallest I have found for the gsxr 600 wheel) and I went with 112 links. Puts the axle as far back as possible and still has some adjustment. I did this to get the wheel as far back as I could on the stock swingarm. To help keep the front end down on the 1350.

[Mike 86 in San Dimas]

I'd like to have that reason.