1990 fj1200: Carb float height

[zoomjay]

I am working to try to get this fl1200 back on the road.  Carbs were overflowing - traced to bad needle valve and seat.  Have new seats and valves (while doing - need to do all four I figure).  I am reading in my manual on the setting of the float height (I do have the right tool)... and what is says (2.1 - 2.3 cm) does not match with what I am seeing the floats arrive at after the new valves.  The floats actually look to be closer to 1.8 cm although they are not real consistent.

In the past I have been told to simply set the floats so that the "flat part" or bottom is flat or parallel with the bowl rim - which a few of these appear to be after the new seats.  Using this logic setting them at even 2.1 cm would set the floats a bit too low with the flat part not being parallel.

So, what is the best path forward?  Am I overthinking this?  I know that the Goldwings I have worked on in the past are real sensitive to float height - just don't know about this fj...

thanks

[a.graham52]

Mine are all parallel. But I'm curious of the proper answer

[movenon]

This might help. Also make sure they are not touching or binding on the side of the bowl.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9560.0
George

[DieHappy]

Make sure you read through that whole post so you'll be clear on it.  I just went through this on my 91FJ1200 while cleaning and rebuilding the carbs.  Set all mine 2.2.  Had a real hard time getting an accurate measurement with my tool so I ended up buying a nice little metric ruler, white on black.  Don't know how long your bike was sitting but when I removed my emulsion tubes (the part the needle slides in) the amount of crap that was built up in there was crazy. 

[zoomjay]

after reading the other post I understand.  Real question is...  does the distance from A -> B on the float equal the distance from the lip of the carb to the mating surface.  If so, doing this will be easy with the tool I have.  If not it might get a might bit trickier....  off to measurement land I go...

[racerrad8]

Since Yamaha supplies the specification of float height of 22.3 +/- 1mm (.880 +- .040) the raised rib of the gasket mating surface is only .010-.012 or 25%+/- of the 1mm on either side of the adjustment it does not really come into play.

I personally measure to the raised rib as my float level measuring tool is too wide and will not fit between the rib and the carb body.

So, to wrap this question up and put a bow it:

Measure to the indicated marking of "B" in the photo I posted earlier down to the "gasket sealing surface". Per Yamaha the carbs should be inclined 60-70* so the weight of the floats does not compress the spring in the needle giving erroneous readings.

Set the float to 22.3mm +/- 1mm and the height is adjusted by bending the tab that contacts the needle.

I also check both side of the floats as I find many that are bend from aggressive handling over the years by other builders. If the float is the same on both sides, you are good to go, if not adjust each side individually to achieve the desired result.

And finally, make sure the float can travel freely throughout the range of motion. I find a lot of floats that are bent and/or twisted sideways and can contact the side of the carb body not allowing the float to fully rise and shut off the fuel.

Randy - RPM

I cannot answer the question if the the difference of the A vs B is the amount of the difference of the edge of the carb body.

Randy - RPM