Can't get the rear wheel bearings out...!

[4everFJ]

Changing the rear wheel bearings on my FJ for the first time. Have done it several times on other bikes without problems.

Problem is that I can't move the inner spacer tube enough out of the way to get a good edge on the inner racing for my punch to rest on.

Also, mind you that this is an 1100 rear wheel, and it seems to have a spacer under the sprocket side bearing, preventing the inner spacer tube to moved at all on that side.

I can move the tube a little on the rotor side, but not enough to get at good edge for my punch.

Any tricks?

[fj1289]

That little bit of wiggle you get on the rotor side is what you get to work with!  The hub is tapered on the inside - no wiggle room on the sprocket side.  I have taken a long drift to help lever the spacer over a little more to get a better edge on the bearing.  Also may have to grind a slight angle on your punch to work with that little edge.  An old screwdriver shaft may work better than a punch.

I've also seen a shop leave one over a hot plate until that side fell out --- don't know how much heat that takes and if it would have any ill effects on the hub!

[markmartin]

I had to make a 'punch' to accomplish this, and now use it to punch out many bearings as needed. I used an old 1/2" drive breaker bar that has a fairly small diameter.  I ground the shaft down on one side of the shaft to allow for more angle when inserted from the opposite side, and ground the very end of the handle flat to provide a flat surface to punch with.  The fairly large diameter of the handle as compared to a traditional punch diameter allows for more surface area on the bearing - the length of the handle allows for leverage to move the spacer to one side and plenty of length to allow for striking the bar to punch out the bearing.
I'll post a picture of it tonight.

[aviationfred]

I have used the bearing remover set that RPM sells. The tool works very well.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3ABearingRemover&cat=39

Fred

[4everFJ]

Got it out!! Thank you all.

Had to fabricate a drift to get it out.. This stupid collar/spacer prevents it from being pushed to one side:



Btw, what a mess in there. Loads of rust and crap... It was the original bearings and oil seals and they were all done for..

Next question...

I noticed that the spacer tube has a lenght that prevents one of the bearings to fully seat againt the recess in the hub.

So, depending on which bearing you drive in first, the wheel will be shifted a little to one side. Does it matter which bearing that you drive in first, and thereby fully seat in the hub?

[Charlie-brm]

Hmmm, my 1984 tube looked like a uniform diameter tube, not with a big end and little end. Maybe that particular one you show is the reason the bearing does not seat fully. ??
* Modifying my post - maybe I am mistaking a part of the bearing housing still stuck on your tube as a "big end" in that picture. *

Good for you to make your own drift. I use a foot long piece of 3/8" steel rod for the entire operation. Straight cut ends. Tapered drifts were not designed to be hit on the side to lever something over like we have to do with the tube.

[4everFJ]

It is the original tube/collar.

It is shown in the QE parts diagram and in the OE Factory Service Manual.

[Pat Conlon]

Yes, I noticed the same thing. I guess the reason is, when the axle nut is torqued down, this prevents side loading on the inner race.

You're good to go...

[4everFJ]

Yes, I noticed the same thing. I guess the reason is, when the axle nut is torqued down, this prevents side loading on the inner race.

You're good to go...

Yes, I know the purpose of the spacer tube is to prevent the bearings to be distorted.

My question was more if it matters which one of the bearings that seats in the hub, since the wheel will be moved to either side depending on which bearing is seated.

[The General]

If there is an acceptable difference I would bring home the drive side (sprocket) first. But like you, I can`t see why a notable difference exists.
Yeah I understand the unnecessary side loading when wrenched hard, but surely tolerances of today can maximise difference to only say >0.01mm...or is that the difference you guys have noticed. 

[4everFJ]

Stupid me....

The two outer bearings are of course the wheel bearing on the rotor side and the bearing in the sprocket carrier...

Those two of course have to be fully seated..

The wheel bearing on the sprocket side just have to be in contact with the spacers on both sides (the inner spacer tube and the spacer in the sprocket carrier). Then it doesn't matter if it isn't fully seated in the hub.

Talking about overthinking it....