Breaking and Riveting Drive Chain - Cheapskate Methods

[FJ1100mjk]

Found these methods using Google search. I have the Harbor Freight tool already, it breaks the chains well, and is a bargain. I grind the rivets down flat, prior to pressing them out too. As shown in the Youtube vid, you can use the HF tool to also flare the rivet type masterlink, but found the C-clamp and pipe flaring tool piece part KawiForum method novel.

Harbor Freight Tool to Break and Rivet

KawiForum Chain Rivet Tool

[aviationfred]

I have used the Harbor Freight chain breaker in the past. You do have to grind down the roller pins or you can break the tools drive pin.

I use an all in one breaker and rivet kit. Less than $20.00 on eBay.

Fred

[Charlie-brm]

I did a 530 chain with the version shown above, in the red box. It got the job done but it was difficult on 2 counts: 1) cranking it hard enough with a wrench to compress the new rivet. 2) it's too small to hold securely and we were thinking something was going to give way at anytime. I've heard of many people having the body itself fracture. Yet it was the kind loaned to us from a motorcycle dealer/garage friend. I know they are available all over the place at prices all over the map but me being contrary, I started looking for something more robust but affordable.

When it came time to do my 530 chain a few months later, I was very glad to have this heavier version. About Cdn $43 off the shelf under a house brand. Likely found online under many names.
Bigger bolt diameter ~3/4", way easier to tighten with less effort. Heavier body. 1-1/4" average cross section. 2 threaded holes on the base for bench mount. The body and threaded bolt alone weigh about 1-1/2 pounds.  Bigger fatter handle, 4.25" x .8" you can actually get a big hand to grip and resist the torque of your wrench. I was looking forward to doing another chain.

[markmartin]

I used the same DIY video and cheap Pittsburg chain break I bought at Harbor Freight to fit a new chain this weekend.  It was my first riveted chain replacement and it took me over two hours to do it, but to tool worked.  I cut the old chain off with a 4" grinder.  With the new chain on a vise, I filed the head off a  rivet, and then used a nail punch and a pin punch to punch the pin out and shorten the new chain to 110 links, so I never had to use the tool to actually break the chain.   I did use the  tool to press the new plate on and then to expand the rivet.  It felt like I was stressing the riveting tool as I flared the pins, and was thinking I should have bought a better tool, but alas,  I took my time and it worked fine.   I did modify the tool a little... ground the flaring pin to have a wee bit more angle on the tip, and ground the face of the hollowed out drive pin, to better support the head of the link pin while cranking on the tool to flare the other end of that same link pin. 

[FJ1100mjk]

I've got a DID chain, and another lesser brand one. Both have the rivet type connecting link,, so I am looking into using my HF breaker to do them. Good to hear that others were successful using the breaker to install the rivet connector link.

On an EK chain that I installed recently, I used their screw-type connecting link. It's great, and straightforward to use. Only tools required are a 10mm hex/box wrench, and a pair of pliers. Wished all permanent connecting links were this kind. A little more money, but if you're spending top dollar on one of their chains, what's a few more bucks anyways?