If you don't have an Impact Driver, Get One.

[X-Ray]

Well, the time has come to put new rubber on the FJ, but before that happens the wheels will be either painted of powdercoated, not sure which way I will go yet. Painting I can do it myself, powdercoating all the bearings have to be removed and it costs more.

But before either is done the brake discs have to come off. I'm sure everyone knows how hard it is to undo these loctited bolts, I spent a good couple of hours with a standard hex wrench and extension bar, no go. I then tried my good AEG Impact Driver, nope.  So I went out today and spent $29.00 on a cheapy manual Impact Driver kit, 15 bits and adaptors etc. This thing made short work of those loctited bolts, so simple. The front discs are undersize, mmmm $200.00 for chinese wave rotors, sounds like the go. I don't think I will loctite these bolts back in, I didn't loctite the rear bolts, still nice and tight and they came out easy enough without the impact driver. But I guess a drop is better than none at all. Any pros/cons with disc rotor bolts being loctited or not?

[Bones]

For piece of mind Ray, I'd put some blue locktite on them. I didn't have too much trouble taking my rotors off when I painted the rims, but they weren't original either. Put some blue locktite on them when reinstalling but had to pull one rotor off a week later when I noticed they weren't clocked, bolts came undone easy enough with an Allen key and jack handle over it. I'll be doing it again after Christmas as I've got a set of rotors on order as the old ones are warped.

What brand of tyres are you getting ?

[X-Ray]

Going to get a matched set of Pirelli Angel GTAs Tony. Still tossing up whether to stick with a 180 rear or just stick a 170 on it. Prices have ranged from around $399 tyres only to $480 fitted etc

I've looked at the wave rotors from Neverland on eBay, come recommended. Then need some new HH pads etc,

[Bones]

That's where I'm getting my rotors from too Ray,  getting hh pads as well, see if their as good as people say.

[Urban_Legend]

I got my rotor off flea bay from a mob in Melbourne called S3performance. i am pretty sure they are still Chinese made, but good delivery time and at least they are aussie. I have been happy with them and still good price. I had my wheels stripped and powder coated by a company in Lismore (i had to remove the bearing, but was going to replace them anyway) and it only cost me $80 each.

[X-Ray]

Had a look at S3 recently Mark, around $150.00 per disc, not too bad, although the other ones I'm looking at are approx $225.00 delivered. Plenty of money left over for brake pads then.

[FJmonkey]

I did not notice any mention of heat to remove the bolts. I always apply heat and the bolts come out much easier. And I always apply a thread lock, medium strength minimum (blue color for many brands). If you use your brakes hard like track days then use the high strength (red color). Theses will not come out without heat. Losing braking is a fast way to stuff up you and your bike. The wheel looks good, nice job.

[X-Ray]

Yeah I nearly bought a butane burner to heat the bolts and break down the thread locker, but decided just to get the impact driver Mark. It actually got them all out in under 10 mins ( well started them and I finished them off with the cordless driver).  Really good tool, love it.

[FJmonkey]

Yeah I nearly bought a butane burner to heat the bolts and break down the thread locker, but decided just to get the impact driver Mark. It actually got them all out in under 10 mins ( well started them and I finished them off with the cordless driver).  Really good tool, love it.

I am glad you did not strip out the hex or bust off a head. That is why I always use heat, drilling them things out is about as much fun a self dentistry... Maybe Proctology with power tools...

[Charlie-brm]

I have a small impact hand tool that is about the size of a magic marker. It takes 1/4" hex bits. That thing gets a lot of use to be sure small fasteners come out the first time without rounding out the heads. Specifically on motorcycles, master reservoir cover screws and float bowl screws. Using a Phillips bit when having proper JIS bits is called for is a detrimental factor for sure, but when I can, once these fasteners are out they get replaced with stainless hex socket heads anyway.

Good for taking apart electronic chassis and cases too.