Steering stem bearing, maybe?

[JPaganel]

In the last day or so my steering started getting unbearable (ba-dum-tsch!).

Last week, I noticed a click when braking. Checked the stem nut. Tightened it up. Click went away, and all was fine for a bit.

Then, yesterday and today I started getting a kind of a... not so much a wobble, but a slow side to side sway. And in curves it got downright scary. Also, I do feel a bit of a clunk still on bumps. 

The previous owner said he replaced the bearings. The somewhat mangled bearing seal confirms some work was done, but isn't inspiring confidence.  Also, the parts fiche shows a washer between the two nuts, which seems to be missing. Ordered that.

Trying to decide if maybe the PO only replaced the upper bearing and the lower is toast now, or if I should try tightening the nut again. Maybe just ordering a new bearing set is the thing to do anyway.

[Bones]

Sounds like the steering head bearings are now too tight causing the side to side sway. Loosen it off again, and with the bike on the double stand and front wheel off the ground, grab the fork legs near the axle and push and pull them back and forward and see if you can feel any play, don't pull the bike off the stand though. If there is, just nip it up bit by bit until you cant feel any more play. Providing there's no wiring loom binding, the handlebars should fall easily from side to side with just a gentle push.

[red]

JPaganel,

There is a torque spec for the steering head bearings.  Happy to hear that you noticed a missing washer.  You should probably check the Parts Sheets to discover if anything else is missing or jury-rigged.  If your bearings or races are damaged, you should consider replacing them with tapered roller bearings.  I have not done that job, but search the older posts for Part Numbers.  I recommend the Timken brand bearings, and especially at that location.

Cheers,
Red

[JPaganel]

There is a torque spec for the steering head bearings. 

Great. How the hell do you measure that with those goofy nuts? All the wrenches I found for that are C-spanners.

Happy to hear that you noticed a missing washer.  You should probably check the Parts Sheets to discover if anything else is missing or jury-rigged. 

Done  already.

If your bearings or races are damaged, you should consider replacing them with tapered roller bearings.  I

They are roller bearings. Or, at least, the top one is.

[racerrad8]

Great. How the hell do you measure that with those goofy nuts? All the wrenches I found for that are C-spanners.

My Yamaha head stem nut wrench has a square hole for use with a torque wrench.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Randy, can you get those? I'll be first in line....

[racerrad8]

Randy, can you get those? I'll be first in line....

Yes, I should have it on Wednesday

Randy - RPM

[racerrad8]

They got here quicker than I thought.

Now in stock; Yamaha Steering Stem Wrench

Randy - RPM

[FJmonkey]

I see that the square hole is offset from the center of the nut. Does it have instructions or the multiplier to get the torque set properly?

[racerrad8]

I see that the square hole is offset from the center of the nut. Does it have instructions or the multiplier to get the torque set properly?

The wrench does not have instructions and the GYSM does not specify. I tighten to seat the bearings, back off the lower nut and and then torque to 2.2 ft lb (25 in lb). I have never paid attention to the torque wrench position.

Randy - RPM

[axiom-r]

I believe that the torque wrench is to be at a 90 degree angle when being inserted into any kind of extension wrench.  I had to do this when replacing the suspension on my car... 

tim

[FJmonkey]

I see, the 90 degrees makes sense as long as the extension/offset is not too long. Good to know. Now where did I put my torque wrench? 

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_main_en.asp