Planned Brake/Suspension Upgrades - What am I missing?

[bharvey60]

A few years ago, I bought an 85 FJ that looks like it just came off the showroom floor from a friend of mine.  I've known the bike and friend for 20 years.  After a few seasons of riding, it's time to invest in some upgrades.  A few goals in mind...

Improve suspension and brake performance
Keep the bike as stock looking as possible.
Retain the 16" wheels

I'd describe my riding as slightly to the "aggressive" side of "average". I'm 55 and weigh 210 w/equipment

Brakes: The only brake upgrade I've made so far was to replace the OEM brake and clutch lines with Spiegler stainless.  A big improvement, but still not adequate. My thinking is to make incremental upgrades until I get to the brake performance I want, so I may not do all of these:

1. Pads and rotors
2. Master cylinder
3. Calipers (blue dots or similar), my understanding is this requires me to move to FJ 1200 lower fork and 17" wheel or fabricate a mounting adapter.

For suspension, I'm planning on the RPM rear shock, fork brace, fork valve, .85 kg springs.

Any thoughts on this plan?  Is there anything else I should consider?
Any suggestions on pads, rotors, master cylinder?

Thanks all...

[Mark Olson]

Ok, sounds like a good plan ... do what you are comfortable with.  I rode the piss out of my stock 86 for years before I upgraded anything.

Keeping the 16" wheels is gonna put a limit on handling and brake improvements .

So block off the anti-dive and use ebc HH pads with ebc pro-lite rotors on the stock wheel . Use the master from a fjr1300 and it will retain the stock look . You will have to order a black brake lever .

If you do decide to go with the 17" front that will give you a dramatic change in handling . You will be amazed at the difference.

If you need to sell the idea to the SWMBO tell her it is all in the name of safety and control .

[bharvey60]

Thanks Mark.  You're right about keeping the other half happy.  Just changed the shocks on my R1100RT this past winter.  Still getting used to the concept of spending half the bike's value on upgrades. 

I researched the HH pads and it looks like the 88HH are the right size for pads and MD2068 for the rotors.  I'll swap them out first and see where I'm at. 

Do you know what the correct bolt size is to plug the anti-dive?

Thanks for your help.

[red]

Do you know what the correct bolt size is to plug the anti-dive?
Thanks for your help.

BHarvey,

You can't just plug the anti-dive holes, you would "lock" the front suspension if you did.  "Block-off" plates to replace the FJ anti-dive units are out there, but they must have an oil passage to keep the front end working normally.  They cost maybe ~US$100.00 so for the money, I'd either bypass the anti-dive units and leave them in place, or switch to newer fork lowers and change to a 17" front wheel.  The 17" wheel will not look out of place, and it will give you a larger choice of tires.  Right now, for 16" front wheels, you can have Avon radials, or Pirelli bias-ply tires.  Both are decent tires.  There may be Metzlers (Triumph OEM) out there, but I would not recommend them, based on looks alone.
       
I run my '85 on Pirelli Sport Demons, and they were like getting a whole new bike under me.  I hear the Avon radials are a little better.

Cheers,
Red

[copper]

I see randy has some pretty trick looking rotors now. Might look there since you are buying suspension.

[Mark Olson]

The anti-dive is disabled by removing the small brake line to it and just leave the anti-dive bolted on.

[Flynt]

Any thoughts on this plan? 

I have a newly acquired '84 with ~20K miles, SS brake and clutch lines, EBC HH front/organic rear pads with stock rotors, .85 springs with AD still working (or not working??), and stock rear shock.  Tires are Metzler Lasertecs (renamed Marbletec since they feel loose in most any situation), but going to Avons which I've used before and are known to work pretty well.  I'm slightly lighter at ~195 with gear, but have found the bike to work pretty well for me...  I brake with 1 finger, but do notice the rear having trouble keeping hooked up coming out of corners hard (betting on tires for now).

I also want to keep it as stock as I can stand.  So far, so good...  although the tires are gone as soon as replacements arrive.  This may well be my mount for the WCR and I'm actually looking forward to it if so.  Even pretty much stock, these are special machines and have an impressive performance capability.  

Frank

[FJmonkey]

Frank, you can ride like the wind, you will like the Avons.... They had more to offer than I could get out of them....

[Flynt]

you will like the Avons....

I had them on the '90 (first FJ) and they were very nice.  I'm a big fan of the Dunlop Q2/Q3, but Wiz is getting a set of Pilot Powers for a change.

Not sure about riding like the wind, but I occasionally break wind while riding...  best to stay back a ways.   

Frank

[bharvey60]

Ordered the following from RPM today - rear shock, springs, fork brace, fork valve, fork rebuild kit, tools, etc.  Ordered HH pads for the front brakes but will defer further investment in brakes until my credit card stops smoking.

I admit to still being a bit unclear on the process to disable the anti-dive.  I'll search the forum but if anyone knows of a step by step "how-to" guide for this, please send it my way.  Thanks all.

[FJmonkey]

I admit to still being a bit unclear on the process to disable the anti-dive.

Remove the brake line... You can also split the AD unit and flip it upside down for a slightly better look... Or paint it bright orange and tell everyone it is radar/laser detector prototype in beta testing.... 

[bharvey60]

Like the idea of flipping the AD - Of course I haven't seen what the bottom looks like yet.

[red]

I admit to still being a bit unclear on the process to disable the anti-dive.  I'll search the forum but if anyone knows of a step by step "how-to" guide for this, please send it my way.  Thanks all.

BHarvey,

You can simply remove the short brake hose, from the caliper to the anti-dive unit.  Use the short banjo bolt from the anti-dive unit to connect the brake line to the caliper.  A lot of air can enter the brake line to the master cylinder, so I suggest that you spin the banjo bolts out with a power driver.  Cap the end of the brake line with two of your fingers (wear rubber gloves), and work quickly to get the brake line connected to the caliper.  Pumping the front brake lever may get a lot of air out of the brake line, but you should expect to bleed the brakes afterward.  Plug (or not) the hole in the anti-dive unit with anything that slips into the open hole in the anti-dive unit, maybe with a dab of RTV or superglue.

My power driver is a reversible drill motor with a clutch feature, which drives screws (or bolts) with a set-able amount of torque.  Chuck an adapter (used with Apex drivers to hold standard 3/8" drive sockets) into the drill motor.  Use a light torque setting to make the rapid connection, then torque the banjo bolt to the caliper normally, by hand.

Cheers,
Red