Delkevic Slip on Review

[Troyskie]

Most of the posts re this seem to be based the fit to a 1200.
Here's a quick summary of fitting off to an 84 1100.
I contacted Delkevic about it and was advised the mid pipes would need modification, but collector and headers should be ok.
This was true, header & collector fitted without a problem.
Mid pipes did require adjustment. I'm crap at that, so off to the local (car) muffler mob for them to do it nice & neat.
Fit off was super easy.
I needed to make a bracket to extend from the proper footpeg muffler mounting point to the strapping bracket on the mufflers.
All very simple.
The next part has been quite interesting.
Below is a chart of several dyno runs combined. This was with Yamaha OEM mufflers on, then Delkevics with DB bungs out, and Finally with DB bungs in.
The bike is essentially mechanically unmodified with factory standard jetting, gearing, etc and with either 70k or 170k on the clock.
First run with OEM mufflers we got to just over 100 horses with just over 65 foot pounds on the torque.
Second run with Delkevic mufflers on, but the DB bungs removed, we made 108 horses and just under 70 foot pounds of torque.
Third run with the DB bungs in, was almost the same with fractionally better torque.
To conclude, the Delkevics weigh far less than the OEM. They do add about 8% power. DB bungs in or out your choice, they make no performance difference. Downside is extra effort/cost/hassle getting the mid pipes to fit.
Overall, probably worth doing & pretty good value for money.
One last point, off the Delkevic topic, the mysterious rev limiter....as you can see in the chart mine kicks in at 10k, but, quite interestingly, the tacho on the bike kept moving up to 12k on every run. None of the other bikes had a rev limiter (we've done about 5 other FJ's on this particular dyno now).

As from before the above is with factory jetting and settings, from the dyno chart (until the sniffer came out) the mixture is perfect.

In summary, the Delkevic is a straight swap for factory jet & set, bungs in or out.
Troyskie

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Tests done.

With or without DB killer - 85*C. And quick temperature rise in city.

After changes in carburettors: back to 79-80*C. And much slower temperature rise in city. Also response for throttle is much stronger. Last benefit - much more bass from exhaust 

Engine temperature gauge is more useful than I thought....

[MOTOMYSZOR]

For few last days I tried discover what is better option: change main jets from standard to 120 or rise jet needle.....

I can not find on internet answer good enough......

Maybe someone have knowledge what is the difference between those two methods, and I mean with one is better for small adjustments?

[Pat Conlon]

Follow this:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

You will drive yourself crazy if you don't follow these ^^ steps in order.

In a nutshell: Select best Main jet first, then needle position, finally pilot jets and air/fuel needle adjustment.

So....if you are certain your main jets are good at 3/4 to 4/4 WFO......play with your needle position.