Carburetor line locations

[EnrAgeD]

Well as some of you know I have been doing alot of work to my 91' fj1200 I have the motor all back together and back in the bike,I have the exhaust reattached,the the heat shields on,the carbs are mounted and fuel line is hooked up coming from filter.The problem is i didn't disassemble the bike so I don't know where to go with the 2 big lines(the one between carbs #1&2 and the one between carbs #3&4) and the 4 small lines that each hook to the bottom of each carb.I have all of them hooked to the carbs but where do the other ends go? My repair manual is being sketchy at best. I know if they don't go in the proper places the bike will run like crap.Please help if you can .

[Arnie]

They're vent lines. They 'connect' to the atmosphere.
They go between the right rear of the engine and the frame crossmember.
It is difficult to get them in there neatly unless you tie or tape them together and drag them through with a wire or cord.

If I haven't been clear, let me know and I'll try to get a picture posted for you.

Arnie

[EnrAgeD]

so I just have to hang all 6 neatly out the bottom?Also what about the one line that comes off of the intake box?Does it go with the other 6?I know that the real big line from the engine goes into the bottom of the box but it has one smaller line that comes off the box.

[flips]

Hi Enraged.

As per Arnie  they go between the right rear of the engine and the frame crossmember..See Pic of my 86.
The hose on the bottom of the intake box is probably the breather from the crankcase.Im not sure about the other small hose from your air box.Maybe emmission control charcoal cannisters?A pic might help



Hope this helps.

Cheers,  

Jeff P

[Pat Conlon]

Im not sure about the other small hose from your air box.....

There are 2 hoses going to the bottom of your airbox...the first larger hose is the crankcase breather hose, the second smaller hose is a drain hose which should run down the back along with your 2 carb fuel bowl vent hoses and the 4 choke circuit vent hoses.

The reason for this small drain hose on your airbox is to drain off any accumulated oil which will collect on the floor of your airbox from the crankcase blow by gas.

Very nice engine picture Jeff....Gives me the shivers...Kudos!  

[EnrAgeD]

Ty for all the help guys.Now that that's all been handled I put it together the rest of the way and fired it up for the first time in over a year.My father and I did in 2 weeks what the mechanic couldn't do in over a year.New problems though lol a little oil came from the top 2 studs on the right hand side but we've figured that out I shouldn't have reused the copper washers I should have bought new which I just ordered a minute ago lol.The other problem is it sounded like a lawn mower firing up and choking slightly Not sure if it needs a carb sync or the timing is slightly off the exhaust side camshaft might need to be rolled 1 tooth the punch mark is slightly favoring the left side of the the sight hole on the e3 bearing cap. Maybe its both I'm not sure any thoughts?

[flips]

Ty for all the help guys.Now that that's all been handled I put it together the rest of the way and fired it up for the first time in over a year.My father and I did in 2 weeks what the mechanic couldn't do in over a year.New problems though lol a little oil came from the top 2 studs on the right hand side but we've figured that out I shouldn't have reused the copper washers I should have bought new which I just ordered a minute ago lol.The other problem is it sounded like a lawn mower firing up and choking slightly Not sure if it needs a carb sync or the timing is slightly off the exhaust side camshaft might need to be rolled 1 tooth the punch mark is slightly favoring the left side of the the sight hole on the e3 bearing cap. Maybe its both I'm not sure any thoughts?

Hi enraged.

While new is best,if they are not badly damaged you could heat up the copper washers with a torch to anneal them to soften them up.

I suspect the miss aligned cam timing mark may be due to stretch in the cam chain.How many miles on the motor?.Probably not a big issue.

I suspect the lawn mower effect may be something simple like incorrectly connected or bad spark plug leads/coil, but could be a few things.
Spark plug lead connection thread...

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12207.msg121194#msg121194

Is it firing on all cylinders?.A squirt bottle with some water sprayed  on the headers will tell if there's cylinders not firing.I would start there.
Carb sync is a great idea  when all cylinders are firing.

Sorry if I'm stating stuff you have already checked.

I'm sure others with more expert advice will chime in.

Hope this helps.

Cheers 

Jeff P

[ribbert]

My father and I did in 2 weeks what the mechanic couldn't do in over a year.

Well done but don't be too quick to dump on mechanics ( I have no idea what you're referring to), no matter how rough he was, if he was a mechanic he wouldn't have re used those washers.

As for the cam timing, the position you describe is not going to cause problems and is less than one tooth on the sprocket. If you move it one tooth it will be much further out.
The only way to return it exactly to spec is adjustable cam sprockets (available from our forum vendor) but the amount you describe is not worth worrying about.

Have you checked the firing order, L to R from the seated position?

What ever the cause of the poor running it is not the cam timing if aligned as you describe.

Why it is running poorly is difficult to speculate on without further information, other than a scatter gun approach.

Noel

[Arnie]

Flips (Jeff) said, "While new is best,if they are not badly damaged you could heat up the copper washers with a torch to anneal them to soften them up."

Be aware that to anneal copper, you need to heat it and then quench it in cold water. 
Letting it air-cool will not anneal the metal.

Arnie

[EnrAgeD]

First off ty guys again for all the input I really appreciate it.The bike has 10,242 orginal miles Jeff.Timing chain appears to be good and tight and so far I verified that timing marks are all good except the earlier mentioned slightly favoring left but still completely visible punch mark on the exhaustknow.Firing order is correct wires are labeled 1234 from seated position left to right and order from seated position on coils are 1 and 4 on first coil 2 and 3 on second coil. While that's not the firing order I can only assume that with all that in the proper positions the firing order should be right but I'm no mechanic by far lol this is the first bike I've ever worked on. We have verified all 4 cylinders are firing by draining the fuel lines and removing the air filter and spraying carb spray in each individual intake slot and then cranking the bike to see if the cylinder fired.So that leaves me with a carb cleaning and sync.If anybody has any other suggestions please let me know.


ALso does anybody have this cable on there bike was with parts when I picked up from the mechanic it i can't see where it would go.

[FJmonkey]

That looks like the power cable that connects to the positive side of your battery.

[Urban_Legend]

This may have already been suggested, but a good investment would be a Haynes Worshop manual for the bike (Try RPM or Amazon or any good book seller - have seen them priced anywhere between $30 & $60) will help you with your everyday maintenance and very good for doing rebuilds. Is very handy. I would be lost with out mine and the bike would still be in a million pieces in the shed.

Mark

[simi_ed]

I have a spare Haynes manual, PM me if interested. 

[EnrAgeD]

This is what's hooked up already which has to be power because I've started the bike and all lights and gauges work that other wire has to from something else and just got mixed in I guess lol.I bought the owners manual and an full repair manual online and downloaded them but that whole manual asumes you took it apart which unfortunately I didn't it tells you to reverse disassembly process a lot lol.

[flips]

Hi Enraged.

Sounds like timing chain and plug lead connections are ok.Could you describe the The 'lawn mower' effect in a bit more detail?.This will give us a bit more to go on.
Is it idling steady?, what happens when you blip the throttle?,are all four choke plungers working together?.does it still have the lawn mower sound once warmed up?,have you done a compression check?,Have you checked for intake boot leaks? ......

you may well be up for carb clean and sync as you have already deduced.

Here's a link to the files section carbs

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?board=21.0

Hope this helps.

Cheers 

Jeff P