Yamaha FJ1200 front fork setting

[Ponty]

Hi folks, I daresay that this subject has been covered loads of times but I can't find the specific info I'm looking for, which is:- I want to set the front fork preload and damping on my FJ1200 3CV - I'm unfamiliar with this concept as most of my bikes have been too old to have any such technologies! I can't quite understand the Haynes manual info which says to push the damping adjuster down to turn the preload clockwise/anticlockwise for stiffer/softer, then release to turn the damping adjuster on its own to set the damping. When I push the damping adjuster in I can't turn it either way, and when I release it the adjuster just turns around fairly freely, without meeting a stop - it's not unscrewing or screwing tighter. Am I right in thinking that the preload must be seized, and that the damping adjuster is simply set to one of the three positions available? Thanks for any info which will brighten up my extremely wet, dark and miserable day in Wales. Cheers, Ponty.

[FJ1100mjk]

Just by your description of the preload adjustment being seized, is an indicator of the general state of your forks. You should just go into them completely and do a clean and inspect. You may well need new seals and bushings to begin with. Get your hands on a Yamaha Service Manual and review the forks area before you dive into them.

Others here will extol the virtues of RPM Fork Valves http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve]  [url]http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve[/url]

However, a simple (?) refresh of your forks: new straight-rate springs appropriate for your weight and riding style, preload spacers cut to correct height, fresh oil at the right height, new seals, and maybe bushings, will make the front end feel better to you.

[Ponty]

Just by your description of the preload adjustment being seized, is an indicator of the general state of your forks. You should just go into them completely and do a clean and inspect. You may well need new seals and bushings to begin with. Get your hands on a Yamaha Service Manual and review the forks area before you dive into them.

Others here will extol the virtues of RPM Fork Valves   [url]http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve]http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve]  [url]http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve[/url]

However, a simple (?) refresh of your forks: new straight-rate springs appropriate for your weight and riding style, preload spacers cut to correct height, fresh oil at the right height, new seals, and maybe bushings, will make the front end feel better to you.

Ok, thanks for this advice, but there's nothing wrong with the forks as such, I simply need advice on how to set the preload and damping which I think is set too high/too hard The previous owner either went a bit faster than me or weighed a bit more (or both!). I'm replacing the rear shock which is shot and I want to set everything up reasonably ok. I'm not sure if the preload is seized or if I'm not doing something right. As I posted, I'm looking for information on how to interpret the manual information which I don't quite understand. It says, push the damping adjuster in, and turn the preload adjuster anticlockwise or clockwise to set the preload, then release the damping adjuster and turn to set the damping. Two questions:- does the preload simply turn through about 200 degrees to one of the three settings, or does it unscrew/screw up for a few turns? Secondly, is the damping screw set to one of three settings (matching the preload setting ideally, or does it unscrew/screw up for a number of turns? Cheers, Ponty

[FJ1100mjk]

If you can't find (use the stellar search feature here), or get your answers here, you might join up with these two sources to pose your questions there too...

Facebook: Yamaha FJ 1100 1200 and 1300 sport tourer - LATERAL FRAME CONCEPT -

Yahoo Group for FJ Enthusiasts: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/yamahafj

Good luck!

[Dogsbestfriend]

Greeting from damp dark Cornwall.
Surprisingly Haynes is correct in this case and on chapter one 28 there are two good pictures of the 3cv adjuster dealing with getting the D rod into the correct hole (such fun!). You might be right about being stuck so try a squirt of WD 40 and clouting the screwdriver just firmly enough to show it who the boss really is.
However as usual the forum advice is good, those forks will be needing some love. My forks felt good until a seal just let go one day. I was surprised at just how worn the top bearings were and the amount of crap inside the fork and this was on a 45k mile bike with full service history. Should you not want to rebuild the forks then try just removing each leg then unscrew the top and remove the spring. Tip out the oil and stick about a pint of paraffin in and work the fork in and out. Drain out through a suitable filter (old underpants etc), repeat several times and then have a cup of tea while the last of the paraffin drains out. Bung in some nice new fork oil followed by the spring and the hard to get in the right hole D rod. Job done.
Due to the fact that down here the roads consist of puddles, pot holes and piles of horse crap I fitted gaiters to my 3cv and they do not look that bad. Well not as bad as the front mudflap anyway.

[Ponty]

Thanks all, I managed to find some info under this forum topic '84 - 85 fork damping adjustments' as well so I think I've got it sussed. I didn't think to have a look in Chapter 1; will do so now, too. I will have a prowl through the forks soon, it's one of my usual winter jobs but at the moment I'm up to my elbows in my other bike which is at the other end of the scale - a YB100 - if you think the forks on the FJ are difficult you should try these; you need 2 sets and an angle grinder to make progress. Cheers, Ponty.