bleeding clutch

[skik]

hi all.lost all pressure on clutch and was getting bubbles in master cylinder.it was suggested that it was more than likely the slave seals so i replaced them.with the master cleaned and empty i tried to back bleed from nipple with syringe.i could only push so much in then it would start seeping out off nipple threads[pushing hard].no fluid in master.i tried then the filling master and pumping,releasing nipple and so on[no pressure]then i tried sucking out through nipple.was just getting air and fluid[none from master] when i pump master now im not getting bubbles.im confused   

[~JM~]

I had a hell of a time bleeding my clutch after replacing the slave & the clutch line.

I bled from the top through the master cylinder. I bought a cheap Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html  That helped a lot. I was never able to get the clutch line completely bubble free, even though I had full clutch operation. I took a zip-tie & secured the clutch lever at the halfway position & then left it overnight. Supposedly this allows bubbles in the system to rise to the top. It seemed to help. I haven't messed with it since then & it operates just fine. Just make sure that you don't pump the master cylinder reservoir dry. Keep an eye on it & fill as needed. If you allow the reservoir to go dry, you sucked air into the line & need to start over.

Good luck.

[skik]

I had a hell of a time bleeding my clutch after replacing the slave & the clutch line.

I bled from the top through the master cylinder. I bought a cheap Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html  That helped a lot. I was never able to get the clutch line completely bubble free, even though I had full clutch operation. I took a zip-tie & secured the clutch lever at the halfway position & then left it overnight. Supposedly this allows bubbles in the system to rise to the top. It seemed to help. I haven't messed with it since then & it operates just fine. Just make sure that you don't pump the master cylinder reservoir dry. Keep an eye on it & fill as needed. If you allow the reservoir to go dry, you sucked air into the line & need to start over.

Good luck.

i cant get any fluid sucked out off the reservoir to run it dry

[~JM~]

Try the zip-tie trick & pull the clutch lever midway back. Top off the reservoir. Then use the vacuum bleeder & see if you can't draw the fluid through the system.

Good luck.

[Pat Conlon]

Teflon tape on the bleeder threads helps with vacuum bleeder.  Are you sure your m/c is clean and all the ports are open? Remove the plate at the bottom of the reservoir and clean the bottom. There is gunk that accumulates between the plate and the bottom.
+1 on the vacuum pump. Get one. I love my MityVac.

[skik]

Teflon tape on the bleeder threads helps with vacuum bleeder.  Are you sure your m/c is clean and all the ports are open? Remove the plate at the bottom of the reservoir and clean the bottom. There is gunk that accumulates between the plate and the bottom.
+1 on the vacuum pump. Get one. I love my MityVac.

plate??? where is that?

[Pat Conlon]

At the bottom of the reservoir. (Should be) perhaps the PO already removed it?

[JoBrCo]

I already covered this in your previous thread. But it's your bike.

I had the same problem, with bubbles forever in the master, and no effective bleeding.  I knew that the slave was good because I had polished the cylinder and replaced the seals.  IT WAS THE MASTER CYLINDER REBUILD KIT THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM. I was getting fluid by passing the master cylinder seals, which never allowed bleeding or actuation of the slave.

I purchased an OEM clutch master cylinder rebuild kit, and honed the master cylinder ensuring all irregularities inside the cylinder were blended, (feathered), using fine grit aluminum oxide abrasive 'paper,' (because I didn't have the time to get the cloth version which is much better).  I used an oak dowel stick just smaller than the cylinder bore, cut a very thin slot in it at the tip, and slid in the abrasive paper and coiled it around the dowel, until it was just smaller than the bore, then I spun it by hand as I pushed it in and out, creating a crosshatched pattern until all remnants of the corrosion or other aberrations were feathered out, then used a brake cleaner/parts cleaner to clean it thoroughly.

I then lubed up the rebuild kit parts with clean brake fluid, assembled the piston/seals as per the old one, lubed up the honed and cleaned cylinder, and installed the piston assembly and it bleed just fine, very quickly, without need of any fancy method or gizmos, bubbles were never to be seem again. Now she works great.

Do not underestimate the importance of honing these cylinders before installing the rebuild kits, and a crosshatched hone is preferred using a fine medium, for better sealing.

Try it you'll like it.

FJ Forever!   

JoBrCo       

[JoBrCo]

hi all.lost all pressure on clutch and was getting bubbles in master cylinder.it was suggested that it was more than likely the slave seals so i replaced them.with the master cleaned and empty i tried to back bleed from nipple with syringe.i could only push so much in then it would start seeping out off nipple threads[pushing hard].no fluid in master.i tried then the filling master and pumping,releasing nipple and so on[no pressure]then i tried sucking out through nipple.was just getting air and fluid[none from master] when i pump master now im not getting bubbles.im confused   

Have you checked your line/lines?  If you have either an 84 or 85 and the lines are OEM then you have three lines, (not sure about the other various incarnations).  The flex line from the master to a hard line attached to the top of the frame, which travels down the frame and is connected to another flex line at the bottom of the frame, which connects to the slave.  It definitely sounds like you have an obstruction of some sort, somewhere.  If you know that the ports in both the master and slave are clear, then maybe you have a pinched line somewhere.  i would visually check the entire system from master to slave, even going so far as to ensure fluid can be syringed through the lines alone.

FJ Forever!   

JoBrCo 

[skik]

replaced the master with an old one i had with a broken lid[forgot i had it]back bleed up to banjo then reconnected to master.fluid pushed up into the master ok this time.job done.thanks guys.if i need to rebuild master i will defo hone it first.