86 FJ1200 - front brake stuck after storage

[geshaghi]

I have a very nice 86 FJ1200 that I keep at my in-laws' home in the mountains of North Carolina, so I have something to ride when I come to visit.  Well, about four years ago, the garage was a little crowded, so we moved the bike down to the basement.  I didn't expect it to remain down there unridden for so long.   I tried to pull the bike out this week so I could freshen her up and get her back on the road, but the front brakes are frozen after I touched the front lever.  I suspect that the piston might be stuck in the caliper, but not sure if there could be another cause here that could be addressed simply (someone mentioned to me that there is valve in the master cylinder that sometimes gets plugged?).  Any thoughts are appreciated.

[the fan]

A quick easy test to see if the master is 'plugged' is to back feed fuuid through the system. Simply use a syringe to force fresh fluid in through the bleeder. If it fills the reservour it is unlikely that this is the problem. If you cannot force the fluid through then the master is malfunctioning and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Not sure if RPM has a rebuild kit for the calipers, but I am fairly sure he has the master covered. The rebuild process is pretty straightforward and IIRC not all that expensive.

[red]

about four years ago, the garage was a little crowded, so we moved the bike down to the basement.  I tried to pull the bike out this week so I could freshen her up and get her back on the road, but the front brakes are frozen after I touched the front lever.  I suspect that the piston might be stuck in the caliper, but not sure if there could be another cause here that could be addressed simply (someone mentioned to me that there is valve in the master cylinder that sometimes gets plugged?).  Any thoughts are appreciated.

Geshaghi,

Place a rag over the caliper bleeder, and be ready to catch some brake fluid there.  Open the bleeder, and if there is any fluid pressure trapped in the system, some brake fluid will squirt from the bleeder into the rag.  If the brakes do not release then, use a screwdriver to lever the brake pads back away from the disk slightly.  Then, close the brake bleeder.  You won't be out much, because you will need all the brake fluid to be replaced, before the bike is safe to ride.  You may have hardened seals in the calipers or the master cylinder, anyway.  A few new seals and new brake fluid will go a long way in restoring safe brake operation to the bike.

Rheers,
Red

[Pat Conlon]

I suspect that the piston might be stuck in the caliper, but not sure if there could be another cause here that could be addressed simply (someone mentioned to me that there is valve in the master cylinder that sometimes gets plugged?).  Any thoughts are appreciated.

It's not the piston, it's the return port that's plugged. At the bottom of the resvoir is a plate. Remove that plate and clean out all the crud. Now reverse flush to open up the port. Put towels everywhere. Keep a spray bottle of water handy. When you remove that plate, and flush, brake fluid will squirt up. Be careful.

[red]

It's not the piston, it's the return port that's plugged. At the bottom of the resvoir is a plate. Remove that plate and clean out all the crud. Now reverse flush to open up the port. Put towels everywhere. Keep a spray bottle of water handy. When you remove that plate, and flush, brake fluid will squirt up. Be careful.

Pat,

I do not understand that water bottle.  Why would you want water anywhere near an open brake system?  What would you hope to do with that water?

Brake fluid absorbs water, and that water can boil out of hot brake fluid as steam pressure, locking the brakes at any speed.

Red

[Firehawk068]

It's not the piston, it's the return port that's plugged. At the bottom of the resvoir is a plate. Remove that plate and clean out all the crud. Now reverse flush to open up the port. Put towels everywhere. Keep a spray bottle of water handy. When you remove that plate, and flush, brake fluid will squirt up. Be careful.

Pat,

I do not understand that water bottle.  Why would you want water anywhere near an open brake system?  What would you hope to do with that water?

Brake fluid absorbs water, and that water can boil out of hot brake fluid as steam pressure, locking the brakes at any speed.

Red

Pat is a smart man.............................Most people will inevitably get some brake fluid mess on their painted parts............
The water bottle is so you can quickly clean off the brake fluid............It will soften the paint quickly if you don't get it right off 

[geshaghi]

Thanks guys, an 8mm wrench on the bleeder nipple was all it took - relieved the pressure enough to let the bike roll.  She wants to fire, so if I can get her out of the basement and into the garage, I'll start the revival process.  Pic of the bike attached

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Alan...yep, time is of the essence.... it's a hard lesson many of us has learned over the years....

That is a beautiful bike.

[geshaghi]

Well bike is now out of the basement with the help of a friend, and brakes are free after the pressure was relieved and the bike has rolled a bit, but looks like the carbs will need some rebuilding as fuel is flowing out of the overflow.   I'm assuming that the needle or float is stuck as it doesn't happen every time, but with a little effort I should be able to get her back on the road.  Now my wife is pissed because I smell like gasoline....oh well!

[FJ_Hooligan]

Now my wife is pissed because I smell like gasoline....oh well!

Tell her she'll get used to it!

[red]

Well bike is now out of the basement with the help of a friend, and brakes are free after the pressure was relieved and the bike has rolled a bit, but looks like the carbs will need some rebuilding as fuel is flowing out of the overflow.   I'm assuming that the needle or float is stuck as it doesn't happen every time

Geshaghi,

Good news, so far.  Make sure that fuel is not getting into the crankcase oil.  The oil level should not be rising mysteriously, and the oil should not smell like gasoline (your own nose is not really trustworthy at the moment, though.    ).  The float bowls should stop the flow of fuel, with the engine off.  The gas tank petcock should do that same job, also.  If you have fuel leaking from the overflow, then BOTH items are faulty.  Run a gas line into a gas can, and cause a long and rapid flow of fuel from the tank (not connected to the carbs) into the gas can.  You need vacuum applied to the fuel petcock control hose, to open the petcock. That flow of fuel *may* fix half of the problem there.  Drain the gas tank, and connect all the plumbing.  Add half a can of Seafoam to the tank, and add fresh gasoline to the tank.  Turn the engine over for maybe a minute (it does not matter if the engine starts, right now), then give the Seafoam a day to work its' peculiar magic.  Then you can go about starting the engine.  Careful use of a *little* ether (starting fluid) will help, but don't overdo that stuff; it can wash the oil off the cylinder walls if you get too generous.

Keep in touch . . .

Cheers,
Red