Hard to start brainstorm

[Targan]

Ever since the monsoon season hit (more humid weather in AZ), my bike does not want to start. It's like the pistons are lubricated with glue, it just wont turn over. I have had to roll start my bike everywhere. My bike has been a bit "chattier" too and has lost some power but I think the power loss is due to fouling plugs and hotter weather (i run rich to keep it cool in 110 degree weather). Battery is good.

I'm on a small budget and have to make a choice between chain (pulses a lot, bad tight spot), sprockets (ok), and oil leak (minimal), or valve check and carb sync/tune. I can handle roll starting it I just dont want to harm my bike.

Thoughts on what it could be? I was thinking gummed up starter motor thing or valve clearances? Then again I don't know much. Last valve adjust was at 42k miles, now at 51k miles.

I appreciate the help and for any simplified answers. If you have any questions I'll try my best to answer, but I do not have the tools to open up my bike. My knowledge is Electrical > Mechanical

[movenon]

Might be your starter but I assume you have checked the cables including the ground end that bolts to the engine. There is also a starter relay in the system. You might make sure the terminals are corrosion free at the starter relay.  As a test you might jumper the positive lead direct to the starter positive.   MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL if you do this.....

Hope this gives you a few things to think about. Bump starting an FJ can't be fun in 100 degree plus wx.

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, a good call by George, check your starter circuit and relay

I recall you have the high compression 1314 kit, correct?  Did you put on the stronger XJR 4 brush starter motor? (from RPM)

[FJmonkey]

If hot starting, you might want to try the old "crack the throttle open about an 1/8 turn" trick. It works for my old 28 year old starter. If cold then make sure your battery is up to snuff, even new ones can go tits up before their time....

[movenon]

FJmonkey has a point there.  I had a brand new one die the first day... Test the battery or jumper it from a car battery and see if there is any difference.
George

[Scooterbob]

I had this same issue long ago.  I seem to remember that I took the starter apart and cleaned all the connections, internals, etc. There was a write-up somewhere that I followed, but I can't find it right now.  Maybe someone more skilled with the search feature can find it.

[Targan]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. All connections are rock solid with no corrosion evident. I have the stock brush starter, and have tried all the tricks like cracking the throttle. When I said the battery is "good" I meant the voltage was good, but I will test it by jumping my bike. I got good battery charger with a "jump" setting I haven't tried out yet. I'll update with results. Hopefully the battery is the issue! If not then I will buy the 4 brush starter kit from Randy.

Anyone have thoughts on the other issue though? Power loss and chattier engine noise. Could be unrelated. No loud knocking or ping sounds, just rattlier? I know for a fact now the spark plugs need changing, but how much of a difference will that make? It feels like im running on 90 horsepower. I figured improper tuning and spark can only account for so much.

[Pat Conlon]

When you say your bike has been "chattier" what do you mean? Chattier from where? Under what conditions?
At idle? Under acceleration? Under deceleration? While cruising?

When you say "running rich" what precisely do you mean?
What jets? What color are your plugs?
Don't tell me you are still relying on that fuel/air gauge the PO installed.

You do know you can run too rich and wash all the oil off the cylinder walls with fuel....
Then, it *will* feel like your "pistons are lubricated with glue"......most definitely.

Oh yea, it will also foul your plugs....

[Targan]

When you say your bike has been "chattier" what do you mean? Chattier from where? Under what conditions?
At idle? Under acceleration? Under deceleration? While cruising? At idle can't tell exact location, middle of the engine. Idle is basically louder than normal with internal mechanical sounds

When you say "running rich" what precisely do you mean? High fuel low air
What jets? What color are your plugs? No idea, probably real dark, don't have the tools to open
Don't tell me you are still relying on that fuel/air gauge the PO installed. No it's crap. I'm relying on my sense of I know what rich condition feels like. Boggy, doesn't start as easily (engine has to turn over a few more times than normal to start)

You do know you can run too rich and wash all the oil off the cylinder walls with fuel.... Didn't know that!
Then, it *will* feel like your "pistons are lubricated with glue"......most definitely.

Oh yea, it will also foul your plugs....

Problem solved. My multimeter was off by an entire volt, time to get a new one. I was running on unusable voltage. I'm so relieved. Charged the battery and I'm good to go. Chatty noise/louder idle and rich conditions still havent changed, but that'll be an easy fix. Thanks for the help guys! Still going to get that 4 brush starter kit

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, good deal....
Re: plug fouling...rich condition: put a fresh set of plugs in, warm up the bike and go for a ride....come back, let the bike cool a bit and read your plugs. (Yes Andy, not exactly the WFO throttle chop method but close enough)
Too rich is not a good thing, a lesson I learned the hard way.
Also check to make sure your choke is fully off...choke cable should be slack.
My #3 carb was partially open in the choke mode and that plug looked black as night...other 3 were fine.
RPM Randy diagnosed the problem and to correct it, he put a very light compression spring (Ace Hardware) on the choke actuator rod (between carbs #1 and 2) to hold the choke in the closed position.

Toasty in the desert huh?.......hydrate before you ride, hydrate, then hydrate some more.
The inverse of the wind chill effect, is the blast furnace effect...it is very real, and very deadly.
It's only 110*F today, but at 70mph it's actually closer to 130.

Cheers

[Targan]

Yep, good deal....
Re: plug fouling...rich condition: put a fresh set of plugs in, warm up the bike and go for a ride....come back, let the bike cool a bit and read your plugs. (Yes Andy, not exactly the WFO throttle chop method but close enough)
Too rich is not a good thing, a lesson I learned the hard way.
Also check to make sure your choke is fully off...choke cable should be slack.
My #3 carb was partially open in the choke mode and that plug looked black as night...other 3 were fine.
RPM Randy diagnosed the problem and to correct it, he put a very light compression spring (Ace Hardware) on the choke actuator rod (between carbs #1 and 2) to hold the choke in the closed position.

Toasty in the desert huh?.......hydrate before you ride, hydrate, then hydrate some more.
The inverse of the wind chill effect, is the blast furnace effect...it is very real, and very deadly.
It's only 110*F today, but at 70mph it's actually closer to 130.

Cheers

Oh man that furnace effect. Way too true. It's funny too because I see the squids rolling around in shorts and t shirt but they dont understand that it's actually HOTTER to ride like that. I need a new chain and sprockets anyways and my mechanic always checks/replaces my spark plugs for free when I get other stuff done so I'll just bring the bike in. My complex doesn't allow maintenance work on vehicles  but the lady and I are looking at a place soon where I can actually work on my bike myself 

I forgot to mention that i'm almost absolutely certain I'm running rich from when I swapped my dried out KN pods out with the UNIs. The unis were a bit more restrictive and that's when the problem started. It was minimal at the time because of the colder weather. This isn't a horrible issue so to say, it's just annoying not having full power.